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Old 02-10-2015, 10:03 AM   #1
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Do you pull fuse on 2013 CRV?

We just bought a 2013 CRV EX-L AWD and getting it ready to tow. I've read threads that talk about the battery going down. My owner's manual says to pull the accessory fuse IF you will be towing for 8 hours. My CRV does not have navigation so I can't see what could pull much current if I turn off the radio, air conditioning, etc.

What has your experience been with this? Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:08 PM   #2
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I did..... but I installed a switch in between so now all I have to do is turn the switch on or off. There are many threads discussing this for Honda CR-V's with some pics. My switch is similar to one in the pics. Works Great!!
My battery would die in less than 8 hours. Honda has recently had a service bulletin for folks with battery issues. I was one of them.

Here are a few of many - Honda crv toad fuse extension

Honda CR-V 4X4 as "toad"?
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:59 PM   #3
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Do yourself a favor and install the fuse bypass switch unless you are using a charge line. The CRV battery is marginal and if drained much at all, suspect to not starting the car.

The fuse bypass switch is fairly easy to install in the coin holder to the left of the steering column. As part of our set up we make sure the radio is on and after the car is hooked up the last 2 things we do are to verify key is in in position II and use the fuse bypass switch to kill the radio as verification the bypass has been activated.

Inevitably, someone is going to say to use a charge line. Not a bad answer if you want to do that. We chose not to use one since we opted for the fuse bypass switch. It has worked flawlessly even after pulling into a CG/Walmart for an overnight stay and forgetting to turn the ignition switch to the off over night.
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:55 PM   #4
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I also installed a switch, 2001 Civic, to disconnect ACC power. I used a small label machine to label it TOW in one position and DRIVE in the other. It removes power from the ACC circuit when in the TOW position.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:00 PM   #5
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A simple workaround is replacing the battery. The battery Honda uses has a minimum CCA rating. Go to your local battery distributor and get the largest CCA capacity battery you can find to fit the space available. Then you won't have to worry about removing any fuses.
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:10 AM   #6
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Thanks for your comments!
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:15 AM   #7
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We had a 2010 CRV without Nav and could tow all day without problems or pulling fuses.

We changed to a 2012 CRV with Nav and the battery will go down without help. I added a charge line back to the coach and the battery hasn't had problems.
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:22 AM   #8
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I ran the charge line but, frankly, it has not seemed to always work well. I used 12ga wire but may not be passing enough juice to keep the battery up. There have been long travel days where the battery was sluggish when starting the car. I had to replace the OEM battery a month ago and, as noted, it is a puny battery. My gas EZGO golf car battery has more CCA's than the OEM battery in the CRV.

Skyboss....can you give me the details on the bypass switch you installed? Do you lose any radio presets when you use the switch?
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smlranger View Post
I ran the charge line but, frankly, it has not seemed to always work well. I used 12ga wire but may not be passing enough juice to keep the battery up. There have been long travel days where the battery was sluggish when starting the car. I had to replace the OEM battery a month ago and, as noted, it is a puny battery. My gas EZGO golf car battery has more CCA's than the OEM battery in the CRV.

Skyboss....can you give me the details on the bypass switch you installed?
Regarding the charge line. Frankly, I am surprised it isn't working well. Are you using something like this? or this?

I use a Blue Ox bypass switch. The hardest part was removing part of my CRV dash to access the coin holder to the left of the steering column for drilling a hole into it to mount the switch. Actually, my stubby finger had a hard time inserting the pins at the end of the switch onto the fuse block. I wish they would have gone one more step and molded a mock fuse end on the cable but it wasn't that bad either. LOL Once it got installed it has been a no-brainer operation and the only thing we do is validate the radio won't turn on as part of our final checks before we tow it.
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:03 AM   #10
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I installed my by pass switch into one of the blank plugs in the dash and it looks as if it belongs there. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-12-2015, 11:13 AM   #11
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I installed my by pass switch into one of the blank plugs in the dash and it looks as if it belongs there. Attachment 85836

Nice job! Where did you get the switch?
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
Regarding the charge line. Frankly, I am surprised it isn't working well. Are you using something like this? or this?

I use a Blue Ox bypass switch. The hardest part was removing part of my CRV dash to access the coin holder to the left of the steering column for drilling a hole into it to mount the switch. Actually, my stubby finger had a hard time inserting the pins at the end of the switch onto the fuse block. I wish they would have gone one more step and molded a mock fuse end on the cable but it wasn't that bad either. LOL Once it got installed it has been a no-brainer operation and the only thing we do is validate the radio won't turn on as part of our final checks before we tow it.
I am not using the Toad Charge gizmo. I just pulled a fused 12volt line from the coach to the car battery and have a diode at the car battery end. I did verify 12V at the car battery end before I did the final connections to the car. I will do some detective work to make sure the power is still pass thru to the car battery.
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I installed my by pass switch into one of the blank plugs in the dash and it looks as if it belongs there. Attachment 85836
What year is your CRV? Mine is a 2013.

I had planned on doing that but the back of the "blank" was too narrow to hold the back nut that secures the switch. The clips that hold the blank in the slot were the problem so the switch wouldn't fit between them.

That is what I found anyway. Maybe I missed something? NAAAA.
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:52 AM   #14
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MSHappyCamper.....I bought the switch when I had the base plate and brake system installed. You can use the link supplied by Skyboss. It's the same one.

Skyboss... I have a 2012 with Nav and did not use the back nut to secure the switch, just drilled an under sized hole, used a file to open the hole a little, and screwed the switch into the plastic. Worked out just fine and I like the way it looks.

Edit: I did not use screws to hold it in place. Since the plug itself is threaded, you can just twist the plug into the soft mating plastic. Takes a little more time but it was worth it to me.
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