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Old 01-11-2011, 07:23 AM   #43
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Thanks for your responses and suggestions.

Jack, I've looked at the Haulmarks and they appear to be well built trailers. There appears to be quite a few used ones available and I'm thinking of a 20-24 footer. That should easily accommodate the Subaru and few other things.

Salter, the Trailer Toad is a great suggestion. I have looked at their website and someone had a brilliant idea. I'm hoping to be no where near the weight where I'll need one, but it's good to know that there is a solution at hand if I do. BTW that's a fine looking machine your standing next to in your avatar.

Thanks,
Craig
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:47 AM   #44
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Hey DR, I have been Towing 26' Trailer With Mini Cooper inside, But I need to get smaller trailer that Will accomodate A Caddy DTS 17.3' Long, What Im attempting is 24' trailer that gives Me 18' inside so car will just fit, Im wondering how You tie Car down as I'm 6'3" & 255lbs So I do not fit in small areas, How then can I get Tires straps over front wheels other than having Two doors opposite each other In front as well as an escape door. , Also do You Drive Or Back Car in to get most of the weight over Trailer axles?.
Any suggestions For a Fat Boy would be appreciated.
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:15 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTENT View Post
Hey DR, I have been Towing 26' Trailer With Mini Cooper inside, But I need to get smaller trailer that Will accomodate A Caddy DTS 17.3' Long, What Im attempting is 24' trailer that gives Me 18' inside so car will just fit, Im wondering how You tie Car down as I'm 6'3" & 255lbs So I do not fit in small areas, How then can I get Tires straps over front wheels other than having Two doors opposite each other In front as well as an escape door. , Also do You Drive Or Back Car in to get most of the weight over Trailer axles?.
Any suggestions For a Fat Boy would be appreciated.
The only way I see doing that easily is to have the access to each side as you said with additional doors.

To answer your question about car is forward or backward, I had to back the car in as the engine needed to be in the rear to offset the weight of my Victory motorcycle that is in the front. When I weighed the trailer loaded for the very first time, the tongue weight with the car pulled in forward was too high and reversing the car brought the tongue weight down to a manageable level.

I use the roadside escape door to get out of the car through the passenger side rear door. It's a chore to to that but it keeps me limber.

I don't use the tire strap configuration however, what I do use is frame hooks that attach to each corner of the front and rear of the carr. I use the tow base-plate in the front and the trailer hitch in the rear. I criss-cross the straps to the E-track on the floor. Never have had a problem since doing it that way. I check them every 1000 miles or so and tighten them up when needed.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:47 PM   #46
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According to most if not all the posters, the trailers are being towed with DP's. I have a 30' gasser with 8.1 WH chassis and am also looking for info on towing an enclosed 20' trailer for toys. The max weight would be about 5000 lb meaning the tongue weight should be about 750 lb or more. With the long overhang on the motor home, I'm wondering if using a weight distributing hitch would work properly. I know it would work when somewhat level, but when exiting at service stations or at other extreme angles, will the torsion bars flex enough without breaking or damaging the hitch or tongue?
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:25 PM   #47
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Towing a 26' enclosed American Hauler Raptor with extended tounge- a necessity. Agree about straps in-line not criss crossed. Brakes on all 4 wheels. We back our Liberty in and I squeeze out back hatch. Trailer is our attic, garage, and my workshop. Carry all tools has work bench as it was set up as race hauler.
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