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Old 09-22-2012, 05:37 PM   #15
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The saga continues. I had the disconnect installed by a Remco dealer in Minnesota and went back with some vibration, noise and engagement issues. Thought he fixed them...so I left Minnesota and towed to Wisconsin Dells. Big mistake. Extreme difficulty in both engaging and disengaging the coupling. Spent today at a Remco dealer here and got more bad news...the splines are evidently defective (or damaged) and need to be replaced. Had to pay another $185 to get my Yukon out of the shop. Now I am sitting in a KOA and waiting for Monday when Superflow opens. So far I have paid $1,285 to three different parties, none of them being Superflow/Remco. Here I sit stranded and temps are supposed to go below freezing tonight. I could kick myself for all the bad decisions that I have made. If this problem is not resolved to my satisfaction next week by Superflow, I may just have to pay more money to have my original driveshaft re-installed and go back to crawling underneath...or have a lube pump installed. Stay tuned.

There is a moral to this story. I just haven't figured out which one yet.

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Old 09-22-2012, 05:50 PM   #16
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Location: Auburn, CA, Havasu, AZ & Mulege, BCS
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Air Baron's story reminded me of a pal that had the disconnect on a Ford Ranger p.u. (small truck). His was not installed correctly. Popped out of gear no sweat. Putting it back into gear required a well placed whack w/a 2x4, i.e. you had to crawl under each time it was unhooked. this is especially a pain in case you have to unhook suddenly (you get better at towing management as you accumulate experience, so you have less emergency disconnects later on).

IIWMI'd make dog gone sure it was installed for smooth disconnecting before taking off on a trip. Park downhill, disconnect, roll a few feet, reconnect. Then repeat uphill. Brake on/off, all combinations imaginable- test the installation.

Most folks get a good install, and have no issues down the road. The install is the key.

Baja-tested '08 2-slide 36'
Alpine: The Ultimate DIY'er Project
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:30 PM   #17
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Brought the truck back to the Remco dealer today. They put it up on a wheel hoist (as opposed to a frame hoist) to remove any change in driveshaft angle to the rear end. The tech got on the phone with Superflow and could not, at least initially, get the collar to move by hand. After spraying with WD-40, the collar began sliding. The conclusion: there are a couple of ball bearings in the collar, one of which was apparently stuck. The lubricant and a little persuasion got everything working. The tech re-adjusted everything, including the nylon guides that move the collar. Cleaned off the lubricant, lowered the truck and practiced disengaging and engaging the coupling...with the engine off and the transmission in neutral. It seems that just rocking the truck back and forth (or allowing to roll down hill, either forward and backwards) is all that is necessary to engage the coupling using the knob/cable. Disengaging is not a problem. All appears well, at least for now.

Moral of the story: If you elect to go the disconnect route, make sure to find a Remco dealer that has technicians with actual hands-on installation experience. Buy the coupling from them and DO NOT PAY AND LEAVE until you are absoutely sure that it works correctly. Make them explain and demonstrate the operation of the coupling...then you try it numerous times yourself. Take it out on the highway and check for vibration as well as squealing and scraping noises. Have them explain maintenance requirements. This disconnect is not rocket science by any stretch of the imagination. It is, however, finicky enough that an improper installation will cause you nothing but grief.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:46 PM   #18
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I have a drive shaft disconnect installed on a 2010 2WD Silverado LT Extended Cab with an 83" aluminum drive shaft. It is cleaned with soap and water only because of the aluminum drive shaft and lubed with silcon dry spray. It is towed with the transmission in park. After the drive shaft is disconnected the truck is started in park or neutral and then shifted into gear to insure the disconnect is fully disconnected. Visual checks or not always positive proof in verify the disconnected is disconnected.
The disconnect works great.
2005 KSDP ISC 8.3 330HP
Pulling 2010 Silverado with drive shaft disconnect
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:33 AM   #19
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