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Old 01-19-2012, 09:49 PM   #1
Hen
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Exclamation Flat Towing with a Minni Winne

I am considering a vehicle to be flat towed by my 2008 24V Access, (Ford E-450 chassis, with V-10, GVWR of 14,500 lbs., and CGVW of 20,000 lbs.). Although I am waiting for confirmation from Winnebago, my simple calculations tell me that I should be able to maximally tow 5000 lbs., if the MH where loaded within its GVWR. To date, I am considering one of two vehicles; a sm. SUV, with a curb wt. of approx. 3,600 lbs. (Honda CRV), or a subcompact hatchback with curb wt. of approx. 2,600 lbs.( Honda Fit ). Honda has confirmed to me that these are flat towable, as reported in, Motor Home. magazine. I would much prefer the CRV (4WD), as it could double as my primary vehicle, as well (Buffalo winters). However, I have no actual experience flat-towing, other than a sm. utility trailer and I am a bit shy about putting 3,600 lbs. behind my little Winne. Would appreciate any advise from any small Access owners, who have experience towing. Thanks, Hen
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:53 AM   #2
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According to the 2008 Aspect brochure on the Winnebago Industries site your motorhome comes with a 5,000 lb hitch.

http://www.winnebagoind.com/products...t-Brochure.pdf

You should be able to tow anything up to that weight. Just a note of caution however. Ford says anything being towed over 1,500 lbs should have suplimental brakes. The brakes are rated for the GVWR not the GCWR. They don't get into the semantics of wether or not a towed vehicle is a trailer. They just say anything over 1,500 lbs needs suplimental brakes
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hen View Post
I am considering a vehicle to be flat towed by my 2008 24V Access, (Ford E-450 chassis, with V-10, GVWR of 14,500 lbs., and CGVW of 20,000 lbs.). Although I am waiting for confirmation from Winnebago, my simple calculations tell me that I should be able to maximally tow 5000 lbs., if the MH where loaded within its GVWR. To date, I am considering one of two vehicles; a sm. SUV, with a curb wt. of approx. 3,600 lbs. (Honda CRV), or a subcompact hatchback with curb wt. of approx. 2,600 lbs.( Honda Fit ). Honda has confirmed to me that these are flat towable, as reported in, Motor Home. magazine. I would much prefer the CRV (4WD), as it could double as my primary vehicle, as well (Buffalo winters). However, I have no actual experience flat-towing, other than a sm. utility trailer and I am a bit shy about putting 3,600 lbs. behind my little Winne. Would appreciate any advise from any small Access owners, who have experience towing. Thanks, Hen
I went through a handful of TOADs when I first started but I'm not sure if my solution works in your Buffalo winter weather! I'm currrently flat towing a 2010 Mini Cooper S (manual 6 speed) at around 2200 pounds. I don't even know it's there and it's worked better than anything else I've towed so far.

Good luck with your decision.
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:18 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Hikerdogs View Post
The brakes are rated for the GVWR not the GCWR. They don't get into the semantics of wether or not a towed vehicle is a trailer. They just say anything over 1,500 lbs needs suplimental brakes
The RV does not have any device on it that can tell the difference between a utility trailer that weighs 4000# or a dinghy that weighs 4000#. The 4000# extra is 4000# extra and it does take extra brakes to stop the extra load.

I just love the folks that try to justify the dingy as not being a trailer because some manual says "trailer".

Ken
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:14 PM   #5
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Flat Towing with Minni Winne

Thanks to: TXiceman, BpK9Miami, and Hikerdogs. I was aware of need for supplemental braking, but have not yet studied the various options. Winnebago does specify not to use surge-type, so I understand the importance of continuous mirror-type brake mechanism in the toad. Any recommendations, based on experience, re. a product would also be appreciated. I suspect the 2500 # Fit, would tow fairly effortlessly, I can not guess, at this point, what the CRV (1000 # heavier) might be like, in terms of added strain on the Winne. I was at an RV show today and found a 31 ft. MH with the same Ford V-10, and same GVWR (14,500) as my 24 Ft. Access (??). I would have thought the significantly larger MH would have a heavier GVWR.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:23 PM   #6
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We use the Roadmaster 9060 braking system. Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories

We chose it for several reasons. First of all it provided proportional braking, meaning the brakes are applied in the towed vehicle at the same rate as the towing vehicle.

Secondly there is only a relatively small air cylinder to install and remove in the towed vehicle. This may not be important to some people, but there is limited storage room in a Jeep Wrangler for something like a Brake Buddy. When in use the air cylinder can be installed or removed in less than 2 minutes.

Third the onboard compressor can (with minor modifications) be adapted to air up tires and other inflatable items. I also like the fact that there's a light on the dash that lets you know when the brakes are being applied in the towed vehicle

We've used this system since we started towing our Jeep in 2005. It's worked perfectly for over 65,000 miles, and I expect it to easily go another 65,000 miles or more with normal care and maintenance.

If you have some mechanical knowledge it can easily be installed in a day. The initial install is a little more complex than some in that you have to install a compressor and a proportioning valve then plumb the air line to the back of the motorhome.
The only possible downside is that the compressor takes up about 2 cubic feet of space in a storage compartment. In our case it fit perfectly in a corner of one of the outdoor cabinets that couldn't have been used for much else.

It's a little less expensive than a Brake Buddy $1100. Vs $1200.00, but if you have to hire someone to install it you could easily eat up the difference.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikerdogs View Post
We use the Roadmaster 9060 braking system. Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories

We chose it for several reasons. First of all it provided proportional braking, meaning the brakes are applied in the towed vehicle at the same rate as the towing vehicle.

Secondly there is only a relatively small air cylinder to install and remove in the towed vehicle. This may not be important to some people, but there is limited storage room in a Jeep Wrangler for something like a Brake Buddy. When in use the air cylinder can be installed or removed in less than 2 minutes.

Third the onboard compressor can (with minor modifications) be adapted to air up tires and other inflatable items. I also like the fact that there's a light on the dash that lets you know when the brakes are being applied in the towed vehicle

We've used this system since we started towing our Jeep in 2005. It's worked perfectly for over 65,000 miles, and I expect it to easily go another 65,000 miles or more with normal care and maintenance.

If you have some mechanical knowledge it can easily be installed in a day. The initial install is a little more complex than some in that you have to install a compressor and a proportioning valve then plumb the air line to the back of the motorhome.
The only possible downside is that the compressor takes up about 2 cubic feet of space in a storage compartment. In our case it fit perfectly in a corner of one of the outdoor cabinets that couldn't have been used for much else.

It's a little less expensive than a Brake Buddy $1100. Vs $1200.00, but if you have to hire someone to install it you could easily eat up the difference.
Thanks, I appreciate this additional, and will add to my info resources.
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Old 01-25-2012, 07:29 PM   #8
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You might want to look into a Suzuki SX4 Crossover 4WD. I searched for lots of small 4WDs and narrowed down to the Subaru Impreza or the SX4. We test drove the two and liked the SX4 much better. We bought it used (2008) and so far for 51,000 miles avg. MPG is 25. Very roomy inside and it has 2WD/4WD Auto and 4WD Lock settings at push of button. Of course to tow it must be manual transmission and that too is fun to drive. It is very highly rated and runs about 3,000 Lbs. I think. We have not yet towed it and are brandy new at this. But after some RV shows we chose the Blue Ox set up for 4 wheels down and the Stay in Play braking system that I just finished installing on Saturday. We will be towing with a 2004 27ft. Minnie and with that Ford V-10 have no doubt that it will be fine. We are heading to FL for its inagural. Need to unbury the MH and give it a test drive locally but I am excited.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:38 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by TXiceman View Post
I just love the folks that try to justify the dingy as not being a trailer because some manual says "trailer".
Actually here in WA there is a difference under the law, a motorized vehicle being towed by another motorized vehicle is not a "trailer" by the legal definition. It's then a "combination vehicle".

In WA, OR and CA towing a motorized vehicle with another motorized vehicle changes the braking requirements into a "performance specification". If you can stop in XX feet from XX mph then no add'l braking is required.

BUT it is added weight and the laws of physics say more weight takes more braking force.

The brakes on a vehicle are only intended and designed to stop the GVWR, NOT the GCVWR. Ford and Workhorse add to that and require supplemental braking on anything being towed that weighs 1,500#'s or more.

Our dolly has surge brakes and when I tow four down I use the RoadMaster 9160 braking system. Yes, I tow our '05 Ody either way.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:48 PM   #10
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Thanks to Chigginsct & Mr_D, for the additional. Much appreciated.
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:13 PM   #11
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Our 2004 30' Ford V10 Class C pulls our 3700# 2dr Jeep Wrangler just fine in the Colorado mountains. We do occasionally drive them seperately because some of the mountain passes here are very steep and long. I won't win any races to the top of the mountain. I hope that helps.
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Old 01-28-2012, 03:46 PM   #12
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Thanks to 04Sundancer; I am assuming that your V10 is the same 6.8 L that is in my smaller Access ??
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:24 PM   #13
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Seems like a decent bet but I'm no expert. In 2005 the 6.8L got
about 60 more horsepower from (at minimum) going from 2 valves
to 3 valves so it's a good bet you will do much better than mine
does with a 3700# toad because (i believe) you have more HP
and your coach is surely lighter
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:42 PM   #14
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Noted, and Thanks again. Hen
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