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Old 11-30-2013, 12:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanerd View Post
I don't see how having the tow bar at an angle to the hitch would do this (as described above) if the toad has a proportional braking system. During any type of braking the toad would be pulling back on the motor home as it will try to stop in shorter distance than the heavier motor home would. Of course, if the toad "doesn't" have a braking system, then yeah, I would understand.

Ron
I'm not making it up, read this:
Towing Physics 101
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:59 PM   #16
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Oh I believe you read this, but did you noticed that there was only one small mention of a toad brake in the whole article and didn't mention what a difference it would make in the testing? The entire article was tested around NOT having toad brakes.

Like I said, I can understand this requirement .....IF..... the toad doesn't have brakes.

Ron
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:59 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by lanerd View Post
Oh I believe you read this, but did you noticed that there was only one small mention of a toad brake in the whole article and didn't mention what a difference it would make in the testing? The entire article was tested around NOT having toad brakes.

Like I said, I can understand this requirement .....IF..... the toad doesn't have brakes.

Ron
Supplemental brakes can fail. Either actual failure of the unit, or user error. I think it would be foolish to use a towing setup that doesn't account for possible failures.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:06 PM   #18
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Yes, I agree. My US Gear Unified brake system is now 7 years old and I have had it on three different toads and two motor homes, yet it has worked flawlessly the entire time.....but, the possibility does exist that it might fail one day; hence, why I keep my tow bar as close to level as I can get it.

My point is that it should be mentioned, along with keeping the tow bar level, that the toad supplemental braking system is also equally as important. It is so often lost when discussing this particular subject.

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Old 11-30-2013, 09:25 PM   #19
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Doing the base plate install yourself has a lot of body work skills in it. Check out the install instructions to see if you can handle the tasks. The newer cars have a lot of plastic in the front end. Plastic rivets, grilles, bumpers etc. There is a technique I used for lights that involved adding separate sockets for towing lights and wiring them directly. Works nicely and does not interfere with OEM light circuit. Did mine for $400 base plate, $500 tow bar used, $500 brake system used, $100 for lights and misc.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:33 PM   #20
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................My point is that it should be mentioned, along with keeping the tow bar level, that the toad supplemental braking system is also equally as important. It is so often lost when discussing this particular subject. Ron

I agree X2
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