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Old 02-18-2014, 12:48 PM   #29
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Mark, and other RVers,

The key issue in towing 4 down with any car is: is the transmission adequately lubricated? Some are and some aren't. That's why some folks install a transmission lube system and some install a driveshaft disconnect. The later is what I did to tow my 2004 Toyota Tacoma automatic. You don't want to burn up your tow car tranny.
Mark and I were lucky (and happy that we could tow 4 down without a dolly).

John
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:05 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by HD4Mark View Post
The info on towing a 2WD manual trans is obviously news to me. I was under the assumption that most 2WD, rear axle manuals can be towed 4 down in neutral. Sure the rear end is spinning the drive shaft and in the case of older cable driven odometers, clocking miles. I don't see what disconnecting the drive shaft would gain other than the wear on the U joints and the trans seals but no more than driving it. We have towed ours for about four years 4 down with no ill affects I can see. So did a previous owner.

The info on towing backwards on a dolly is what I have seen some automatic trans 2WD rear WD owners do so the drive axle is not spinning. This makes sense with the exception that the front end on cars are designed to go forwards most of the time.

I have a 1996 2WD Manual Trans Geo Tracker with factory A/C. Roadmaster baseplate and tow bar. Lighting is removable and hangs from the gap between tailgate door and rear window. I tow 4 down all the time. Tranny in neutral, ignition switch on at 1st position. I needed a steering stabilizer to dampen the head shake on mine ... some do ... some dont. Mine has about 135K miles.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:34 PM   #31
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'96 Sammuri 4x4

Keep in mind the Sammi, tracker, etc spin the front driveshaft even with the transfer case in neutral and the front hubs unlocked. That, of course, turns the front axle! That's why you can't tow the auto-locking hub versions.

Removing the rear driveshaft and unlocking the front hubs is best. You can take the four bolts out of the transfercase end of the rear drive shaft and tie it up. That's always worried me 'cause dropping the driveshaft would dig into the pavement. Better would be to take out the four bolts on the axle end and tie the driveshaft up. then dropping the driveshaft would just pull the shaft apart and drag the spines down the road. Unpleasant but not a disaster.

I just take the driveshaft out completely and put it in the back seat with baggies around the u-joints. This winter I took it out in -10 degree weather. NBD

I gain a couple MPG towing it with the rear driveshaft out - no kidding! Towing it with my Traverse not the Mountain Aire Nothing adds a couple MPG to THAT!
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:01 PM   #32
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"You can take the four bolts out of the transfercase end of the rear drive shaft and tie it up. That's always worried me 'cause dropping the driveshaft would dig into the pavement."

Trackers (Sidekicks) have a splined yoke at the TC. If you were to somehow remove the front of the rear DS it would spin as you're towed down the road, breaking away any tie down and destroying the shaft (at least) in a short time.

"I just take the driveshaft out completely and put it in the back seat with baggies around the u-joints."

Don't know what baggies would do for intact u-joints. The front has a splined yoke (Trackers [Sidekicks]) and the rear has a plate that bolts to a matching plate so the joints are secure. You must have a Samurai.

If I do have to tow with RDS removed, I put a top from a spray paint can over the TC snout to catch any lube that will spill out.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:19 AM   #33
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I think that if we had to unhook the drive shaft, I would be looking for another option for a toad. I would not have much of a problem if it was across country and never use the toad but if the next stop was 12 miles like ours is it would be a giant PIA. Yes we could just drive it that short a distance but then what is the point of having a towable?

Hey that is just me and to each their own.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:08 AM   #34
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I think that if we had to unhook the drive shaft, I would be looking for another option for a toad. I would not have much of a problem if it was across country and never use the toad but if the next stop was 12 miles like ours is it would be a giant PIA. Yes we could just drive it that short a distance but then what is the point of having a towable?

Hey that is just me and to each their own.
Hey ... we can always just strap it to the ladder with the bikes
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