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Old 11-11-2014, 06:26 PM   #15
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Getting Pushed Around By The Toad

If it was me; First I'd check to make sure the tow bar is level. Second I'd question if the toad braking system is working and adjusted correctly. Not sure about your system but my RVi2 system has a remote that tells me when the brake is pushing the pedal but more importantly it has a test button that I push and feel a little tug to make sure it's working.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:37 PM   #16
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One other consideration is a hitch stabilizer. Very inexpensive U-bolt device that takes the play out of your hitch. I installed one on my setup and it helped a lot with the feeling that the toad was "pushing" me around
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Campbell5 View Post
If it was me; First I'd check to make sure the tow bar is level. Second I'd question if the toad braking system is working and adjusted correctly. Not sure about your system but my RVi2 system has a remote that tells me when the brake is pushing the pedal but more importantly it has a test button that I push and feel a little tug to make sure it's working.
Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I can feel the toad braking when the motorhome is braking, though I don't want the brakes set so sensitive that they apply other than when I apply the brakes in the MH. Interestingly, the MH doesn't experience the over-steer when going uphill, downhill is where it is felt most.

I experimented with this phenomenon and accelerated when going into to a turn on flat, level terrain and it decreased the amount of over-steer. My thinking is this has to do with the toad wanting to keep going in a straight-line and the MH has to tug it into the corner. But before it does, the force of the toad (going straight) pushes the rear of the MH in that direction and the sensation of the oversteer is created by the rear wheels acting as the fulcrum/pivot thus pushing the front end further into the turn.

Just need to figure out a way to lessen the affects. Keep the ideas coming.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:09 PM   #18
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One other consideration is a hitch stabilizer. Very inexpensive U-bolt device that takes the play out of your hitch. I installed one on my setup and it helped a lot with the feeling that the toad was "pushing" me around
Good suggestion, taking that extra bit of slack out might help some. Though the hitch receiver on the MH already has a bolt in addition to the pin, but the additional support wouldn't hurt.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:27 PM   #19
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Our coach is a bit heavier than yours, GVW 29000, and of course the back of our coach is very heavy because it's a diesel pusher. Our Honda Pilot is a great toad! We actually never know it's behind us.

Is your motor home a front engine? If so, maybe the rear of your coach is too light to control the toad. ????

Jim
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:38 PM   #20
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curb weight of 2015 Pilot is 4,295-4,608 lbsdepending on options/trim level.....good luck!
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Percival6 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I can feel the toad braking when the motorhome is braking, though I don't want the brakes set so sensitive that they apply other than when I apply the brakes in the MH. Interestingly, the MH doesn't experience the over-steer when going uphill, downhill is where it is felt most.

I experimented with this phenomenon and accelerated when going into to a turn on flat, level terrain and it decreased the amount of over-steer. My thinking is this has to do with the toad wanting to keep going in a straight-line and the MH has to tug it into the corner. But before it does, the force of the toad (going straight) pushes the rear of the MH in that direction and the sensation of the oversteer is created by the rear wheels acting as the fulcrum/pivot thus pushing the front end further into the turn.

Just need to figure out a way to lessen the affects. Keep the ideas coming.

Thanks,
Tom
That is exactly right (old sports car racer here). When you go into a turn off throttle, the back end is light and the toad is pushing you. That is what is giving you the oversteer. When you get on the throttle, the MH squats and loads the rear tires, giving more grip and also pulling the toad in the direction that you are going.

I had this happen in my old Suburban towing a 24' enclosed trailer. I went into a turn too fast and on lift throttle the trailer actually pushed the back of my Suburban out so far that I had to counter steer. Luckily there was no oncoming traffic as I was in the opposite lane going around the corner.
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:10 PM   #22
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Sounds like the rear track bar might be shifting when loaded. Check all the mounting bolts and make sure all are tight and the bushings are sound.
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Old 11-27-2014, 10:04 PM   #23
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Same Problem

I have a Workhorse W20 with a Southwind on it. I have the same pushing around problems with a Honda CRV behind it. It is worse when it is full of gas. I reminds me of a 1/2 ton pickup with a big camper mounted on it. I does better when no Toad. I have this feeling the springs are to soft. They are designed to give a soft ride. I have new shocks and kit from Workhorse for handling. My brother works for a RV spring shop and says stiffer springs make it feel much more stable.
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:19 AM   #24
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Sounds like the rear track bar might be shifting when loaded. Check all the mounting bolts and make sure all are tight and the bushings are sound.
Good point, I'll check those when it dries up a little here. The bushing are all poly, except for the original rear sway bar, but the aftermarket sway bar on the rear has poly.

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I have a Workhorse W20 with a Southwind on it. I have the same pushing around problems with a Honda CRV behind it. It is worse when it is full of gas. I reminds me of a 1/2 ton pickup with a big camper mounted on it. I does better when no Toad. I have this feeling the springs are to soft. They are designed to give a soft ride. I have new shocks and kit from Workhorse for handling. My brother works for a RV spring shop and says stiffer springs make it feel much more stable.
That's a good analogy. Our previous RV was 30 foot TT pushing a 2006 Toyota Sequoia. They were equally matched for weight, but the short wheelbase of the Sequoia was not the best match for such a long trailer. Though it was more predictable going into corners than the current RV/Toad combination we have now.

I think this keeps coming back to the weight mis-match between our toad being heavy and the MH being relatively light. Plus the long overhang of the F-53 chassis. First on the list will be checking all the suspension components and getting an alignment, then since the tires are original, getting those replaced at some point in the not too distant future. Third, wait about 10 more years until the kids are in college and get a smaller toad

Thanks for all the suggestions!

Tom
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Old 01-04-2015, 02:40 PM   #25
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I have a 89 southwind 36' 18,000 lbs and I built a tow bar and brackets for my 95 suburban that is about 6500 - 7000 lbs other then stopping I did not feel it towed it about 500 miles I have now got a braking system for it but have not tow with braking system in it
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:08 PM   #26
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Tom you are correct the Pilot is just under 4500 according to my book, I agree with Mel, I think you have some other problem, check to make sure the tow brackets are not loose also double check your tow bar call Roadmaster to see how to check it, I have pulled heavy toads yrs ago with a 14??? chevy chassis with no problem and also with a 99 Ford chassis with no problems.
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:47 PM   #27
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Does the key on some vehicles need the key to be on to unlock the steering column to steer when it locks it can push the m/h weird around corners (you want to turn toad wants to go straight)
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Old 01-06-2015, 04:13 PM   #28
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I have a 89 southwind 36' 18,000 lbs and I built a tow bar and brackets for my 95 suburban that is about 6500 - 7000 lbs other then stopping I did not feel it towed it about 500 miles I have now got a braking system for it but have not tow with braking system in it
I'd be very surprised if that Southwind was rated to tow any more than about 3,500#. I would also assume that towing 6,500#-7000# would put you well over the GCWR, and you've done this with a home made tow bar and brackets, and no brakes on the Suburban ?
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