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Old 05-25-2015, 09:54 PM   #1
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Got my Eze Tow today: Follow on

I started this thread Got my EZE Tow today right after I got my Eze Tow a few months ago. Thought I'd start a new thread with some follow up experiences.

First, I still really like the Eze Tow dolly. Its well made, relatively light weight and gets the job done. I've towed several times now, usually 100-150 miles a trip each way along with a 700 mile each way trip to Nashville. I have no regrets buying this dolly and recommend it to anyone to consider if you're looking to go the dolly route.

I still have a couple of gripes that I'm trying to work out. The original "red" straps seemed too small for my Nissan Murano. When I sent pictures of my set up to Eze Tow they agreed and sent me a set of larger "blue" straps and no charge. The blue straps seemed a bit better, but due to the size of my tires and the wide wheelbase of the Murano it was very difficult getting the clips into the slots in the newly designed Eze Tow. The result was that the hooks would end up under the tires and the safety clips would get all banged up ( . Also, due to the positioning of the hooks I never felt the tires were truly secured and tightened down correctly.

I thought about buying some eyebolts with nuts and washers I could thread through the slots and attach the hooks to. I found some bolts on Amazon which appeared to be big enough, but they were $20 each plus washers and nuts. I couldn't find anything large enough for the hooks to fit in at Home Depot or Lowes. Then I found some quick connect links at home depot that seemed the right size. They were big enough for the hooks to fit in and small enough to slide through the slots in the trailer. They were rated for over 2500 pounds. Now I needed a way to keep them from pulling through the slot. The solution was some large galvanized washers. Laid flat and under the slot, they seemed quite secure and kept the link from pulling through. They flopped around a lot while setting up the hooks, so I thought I'd secure them in place with some quick setting epoxy. The epoxy does not add any strength and is only for keeping the washers perpendicular to the links while setting up. Once they are under tension, they stay in place on their own. Here are some pictures of the links being epoxied with the bolts, and the hooks holding the straps with the links.






Everything worked nicely and I was able to load up the Murano faster and apparently more securely than before. However, once I had tightened up the newer large, blue straps I realized two things; First, I had pulled almost the entire length of adjusting strap through to the ratchet due to the extra length the link provided and second, the "bucket" part of the straps were almost completely past the rear of the tire. To my eye, there was virtually nothing holding the tire in place if it decided to roll off the back of the dolly.


Both of these problems were solved by going back to the smaller red straps, which appeared to hold the back of the wheel much more securely.


Now the only problem was the hooks were at an angle where they appeared to be digging into the sidewall of the tire.
.

There wasn't much I could do other than place some towels between the hooks and the sidewall to keep the rubbing down. After a 250 mile trip to St Augustine and back there didn't seem to be any damage to the tire.

Now to the less successful experiment I tried. Hooking the safety chains under the frame of the Murano is a pain in the neck. Its tough to get under there and thread them in and hook them to the banjo holes. So I thought I'd try to make a "hook" under the farm that I could leave on there and just clip the chains on. I bought some plastic coated steel cable and locking clamps and threaded them onto the frame where I would usually hook the chains.




Once the clamps were secured, I wrapped the cables with duct tape. I was able to clip the safety chains on the cables and secure the car to the trailer. I had some hesitation about leaving a loop of steel cable under the frame due to the off chance it might find some sort of road debris and hook on like an arresting hook. I also had no idea how well the steel cable would secure the car in the event of a wheel strap failure. I quickly found out when we were unloading at our destination. Lots of people were checking in and the spot I'd stopped in was blocking people from entering. In my haste, I told my wife to back off the trailer before I'd remembered to disconnect the chains. BANG, the car came off and the cables had broken (not at the clamps, but both cables had just broken).

Anyway, its a lot easier to hook the straps up with my new links and washers. Still thinking about how to hook the safety chains faster. Like most newer cars the front and rear bumpers of the Murano have a small plastic tab you can pop out to insert an eyebolt for a tow truck operator to pull you onto a flat bed.


Maybe this is a possibility instead of safety chains under the frame?
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:29 AM   #2
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Great post!!!

The loops in the slots idea is very similar to what we were talking about in the other thread.

The Safety Chain cable hoop idea is almost there...just needs to be stronger. Maybe a hoop made of chain with one of your quick connect links to close it around the chassis or larger gauge cable.

And - when using cable clamps, the rule of thumb is: saddle on the "live" horse...which means, place the part of the clamp that looks like a horse saddle, on the cable that is not at or near its raw end.
The "live" cable is the one with load on both sides of the clamp...For the loop pictured, the clamps would be exactly opposite of what is in the photo.

Safe travels
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:47 AM   #3
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The Acme "EZE-TOW" Tow Dolly

For vehicles with a very wide track the out side clip can be an issue. We can send you a tie loop to be welded on the outside of the dolly that will fix that issue for you.
We are working a new strap design that will have some adjustability and a REPLACEABLE clip. That will help for the very wide cars. Still several weeks out though. We will be posting on here as soon as they are ready.
The safety chains cannot go forward to your towing hooks, unless you weld some banjo plates onto the front of the dolly. I can send you a picture and the plates suggesting placement. Actual placement would have to be determined by your vehicle position on the dolly. Otherwise the chains will not keep the car on the dolly in that position. That position gives the vehicle 60 inches of range of motion, more then enough for the car to come completely off the dolly, plus the chains will not stay in the current banjos from that position.

Richard.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZE Tow View Post
For vehicles with a very wide track the out side clip can be an issue. We can send you a tie loop to be welded on the outside of the dolly that will fix that issue for you.
We are working a new strap design that will have some adjustability and a REPLACEABLE clip. That will help for the very wide cars. Still several weeks out though. We will be posting on here as soon as they are ready.
The safety chains cannot go forward to your towing hooks, unless you weld some banjo plates onto the front of the dolly. I can send you a picture and the plates suggesting placement. Actual placement would have to be determined by your vehicle position on the dolly. Otherwise the chains will not keep the car on the dolly in that position. That position gives the vehicle 60 inches of range of motion, more then enough for the car to come completely off the dolly, plus the chains will not stay in the current banjos from that position.

Richard.
Thanks Richard. You guys are always very helpful and responsive. I'll send you an email about the weld on loops.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Great post!!!

The loops in the slots idea is very similar to what we were talking about in the other thread.

The Safety Chain cable hoop idea is almost there...just needs to be stronger. Maybe a hoop made of chain with one of your quick connect links to close it around the chassis or larger gauge cable.

And - when using cable clamps, the rule of thumb is: saddle on the "live" horse...which means, place the part of the clamp that looks like a horse saddle, on the cable that is not at or near its raw end.
The "live" cable is the one with load on both sides of the clamp...For the loop pictured, the clamps would be exactly opposite of what is in the photo.

Safe travels
I thought about using chain, but figured it might rattle. I guess if I wrap it in something that might deaden any noise.

Thanks for pointing out I got the clamps backwards. My thinking was I wanted the "saddle" to keep the cut end from pulling through. Excellent "reverse barometer" logic on my part. The good news I guess is that the clamps were stronger than the cable since break happened elsewhere.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:52 PM   #6
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Thanks Richard. You guys are always very helpful and responsive. I'll send you an email about the weld on loops.
Jondrew - If you check in your other thread about receiving your tow dolly, you will see starting with post #122 that I posted information about these loops from Acme. In a follow-on post, there is also a picture I posted from Acme that shows what it will look like when welded on.

We had to purchase those same quick connect loops that you installed while we were travelling inorder to get home. Our tires were destroying the strap hooks and we were also concerned about the tires getting damaged. We used them alittle differently then you did but it was a temporary fix just so we could get home. Our wheelbase is alittle wider than yours so space between the tire and the fender is at a premium.

I am anxiously awaiting the new redesign of the straps that Richard from Acme mentioned in his post. I spoke with him last week and am hoping these will work on our larger tires.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by rvpusher View Post
Jondrew - If you check in your other thread about receiving your tow dolly, you will see starting with post #122 that I posted information about these loops from Acme. In a follow-on post, there is also a picture I posted from Acme that shows what it will look like when welded on.

We had to purchase those same quick connect loops that you installed while we were travelling inorder to get home. Our tires were destroying the strap hooks and we were also concerned about the tires getting damaged. We used them alittle differently then you did but it was a temporary fix just so we could get home. Our wheelbase is alittle wider than yours so space between the tire and the fender is at a premium.

I am anxiously awaiting the new redesign of the straps that Richard from Acme mentioned in his post. I spoke with him last week and am hoping these will work on our larger tires.
I read your posts to the other thread. I don't think you had pictures, but your basic descripton lead me down this path. I had also considered having a local welding shop bend some loops out of rebar and welding them on. Probably similar to what Eze Tow is suggesting.

In any event I've got what seems to be a workable solution for my needs, at least for now.
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