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Old 07-13-2017, 05:17 PM   #1
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Height Difference

I have read on different forums and manufacturer's websites the recommended height difference between the receiver on the MH and the hitch connected to the tow bar. I have read that, at rest with the MH loaded normally, they should be absolutely level, there should be no more than 2" difference, and that 4" is the correct difference.

I understand that the MH receiver should be higher than the hitch, because under braking, the back of the MH rises and the toad hitch should go lower than the MH. I get that part.

What I am curious about is if there are any appreciable changes in handling characteristics with different height differences. Handling differences in the MH as well as any handling differences in the toad. I've been trying to think of any reason NOT to go with a minimum of 2" difference.

What do YOU recommend? I'm all ears.
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:24 PM   #2
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Really doesn't matter what WE recommed!! Follow the manufacturers published requirements, they have been tested and proven.
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:57 PM   #3
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I just installed 4" drop hitch receiver to get everything close to level, Class C motor home on Sprinter Chassis to Honda CRV with Blue Ox equipment. I'm wondering if you can re drill hitch pin holes in tow bar and move forward to compensate for added length of drop hitch receiver? I plan to call Blue Ox tomorrow, although I have a pretty good idea as to what they are going to tell me!
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:45 PM   #4
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We also needed a 4" drop hitch to level the tow bar between our Encounter and our 2014 CR-V. While backing the Encounter into our storage area the drop hitch scraped the concrete and I had to remove it to park the RV. I just ordered a 2" drop hitch. There is quite an overhang on the Encounter and I think the 4" hitch would give us problems down the road at some gas station entrances and other not level situations.
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:45 PM   #5
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There are several mistakes people make when setting up their MH's hitch t Toad towing.
1. You need to ensure that there is no movement once the hitch is installed, yo know the clunking due to the fact the the receiver is slightly bigger than the hitch. Install a Quiet Hitch to fix this.
2. Your Toad Base Plate hook up height, Prior to and Post connecting to MH.
You figure this out by measuring from the ground to a point on the Toad before hooking up and then again after hooking up. These should not change, but here is where people make the biggest mistake. Those of yo with a DP or any MH that has Air Bags that change height after the engine is running (ride height vice leveling height) need to be at Ride height. This is usually higher than the level height(air bags deflate).
3. Now this is time to worry about the Tow bar to be as level as possible. this is when you have to decide if you need a Drop/Raise Bar. Also yo need to ensure there is no movement (clunking) between the Tow Bar and Drop/Raise bar also.
4. You wonder why no movement(clunking). This wears(wallows) out the Receiver and damages it. It cause undue stress on the equipment.
And the big one can lead to the Death Wobble on Toads that an EPS.

OK I think I covered everything.
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Old 07-15-2017, 06:04 AM   #6
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Called tech support at Blue Ox and was told Not to drill additional holes in tow bar or drop hitch. The added length of Drop Hitch would also allow for tighter turning radius. They also suggested using Hitch Immobilizer- BX88224
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Old 07-16-2017, 11:57 AM   #7
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This what I did on both of my DP's. I had a hitch shop weld on a second receiver under my OEM receiver. I bought the second receiver at Harbor Freight because they had one the length I needed (8"). The hitch shop added it for $100.00. The second receiver gives you just under four inches of additional drop and is far enough forward that it doesn't drag. Even if my coach needed 8" of drop, I would still weld on the second receiver.

My brother-in-law had a similar situation on his DP. Except his was too low, but there was room to add a second receiver above his OEM receiver. This secondary receiver has been used to tow my Silverado with a RZR in the bed, about 8000 pounds.

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Old 07-16-2017, 01:34 PM   #8
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We had to order in 6" receiver between the 2016 Georgetown and 2017 Jeep. We thought we were set to go with everything hooked up and installed and then discovered the height difference.
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperGewl View Post
There are several mistakes people make when setting up their MH's hitch t Toad towing.
1. You need to ensure that there is no movement once the hitch is installed, yo know the clunking due to the fact the the receiver is slightly bigger than the hitch. Install a Quiet Hitch to fix this.
Not totally true. My RoadMaster hitch moves sideways about 1" when fully extended even with a Quiet Hitch installed (which removes only the up/down movement unless installed sideways which I have no room to do). A call to RoadMaster got me "That is within spec's and not a problem".
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry201 View Post
I just installed 4" drop hitch receiver to get everything close to level, Class C motor home on Sprinter Chassis to Honda CRV with Blue Ox equipment. I'm wondering if you can re drill hitch pin holes in tow bar and move forward to compensate for added length of drop hitch receiver? I plan to call Blue Ox tomorrow, although I have a pretty good idea as to what they are going to tell me!
I asked that very question of the RoadMaster rep at the NW Regional FMCA rally last month. He said they would not do it and their instructions say not to do it also.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry201 View Post
I'm wondering if you can re drill hitch pin holes in tow bar and move forward to compensate for added length of drop hitch receiver? I plan to call Blue Ox tomorrow, although I have a pretty good idea as to what they are going to tell me!
I've done it many times with no problems. Assuming you have the proper size bit and a good drill press there should be no problem. I'm talking about the drawbar and not the receiver itself. Also, I would not drill a hole any closer to the receiver end of the drawbar than the factory hole but going the other way should not weaken anything and in fact makes it a little stronger since you are shortening the lever. But do what you're comfortable with.

I'm not surprised that a manufacturer would tell you not to modify their products.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:06 AM   #12
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I guess saying "don't or not recommended" is the go to answer!! if their concern is to cover their A--S
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Old 07-17-2017, 02:18 PM   #13
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I guess saying "don't or not recommended" is the go to answer!! if their concern is to cover their A--S
In our litigious society, any manufacturer is going to say what they need to say to cover their assets.
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