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Old 02-12-2015, 12:23 PM   #29
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Location: Ma.
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Buy what you like and is towable.Simplelest and most value is the Ready Brute Elite tow bar and brake system.ado a search on Ready Brake.

Originally Posted by DRosado View Post
My husband and I are real newbies to the world of MH. We purchased our 2015 36LA last August and have made several successful weekend trips around Florida. However, we are now planning our summer vacation and are looking into towing a car. I have been reading up and am now totally confused as to what is needed. We were going to tow our 2013 CMAX Energi, but found out that there is an issue with draining the battery, the electric vacuum pump brakes and modifications needed to attached the plate. We are now looking for a second car. So my questions are:

1. If you were buying a toad, what would you recommend?

2. Could you please provide a short summary of what is needed and what you would recommend to tow? In other words, I saw a great deal posted about the Blue Ox towing system, charge lines with fuses and diodes, adding tail lights and braking systems. Don't understand it all.

3. My husband has basic electrical knowledge, but hates working with electricity. Could our dealer (Lazy Days-Tampa) install everything needed on both the MH and toad and do you have any idea as to what would be reasonable price to do so?

I know these questions may be basic to most of you, but we are really green and need all the help we can get. Many thanks.

Thank You
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:21 AM   #30
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I use a Ready Brute Elite with Blue Ox base plates on our 2013 4x4 Silverado. I installed brake lights in the taillights. It is simple to use and is mechanically simple in operation.

Regardless of what you decide on, build a check list and use it without fail.

Jim and Jennie, Cats=Bittles and Potter, 2000 Dynasty 350 ISC
2013 Silverado 4x4 Towed with R1200GS in bed.
PROV23:4 Do not wear yourself out to get rich; have the wisdom to show restraint.
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Old 02-13-2015, 02:57 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by camato5 View Post
Here is what I did and it solved all my problems about base plates tow bars etc. For the time being, I bought a 18' Big Tex car hauler and drive my wife's Mustang GT convertible on it and tie it down in four places. If we decide to haul our pickup we drive it up and haul it. The car hauler is easy to back, you can't really back a toad (don't get this started on the thread) and it saves on the expensive GT tires. Problem solved. They cost about $3000 and you can sell it easily enough if you finally decide to pull with four wheels down (flat tow) After reading the threads about backing a toad, I am glad I am using a car hauler.
There are some disadvantages such as you need longer camp areas and some campsites have a designated area for the trailers but we have not run into that problem yet. That problem is usually in state parks.
So Pull what you have now with the car hauler, search around and buy your next toad when you are good and ready to trade.
Good luck
The OP's profile indicates they have a 2015 Allegro. If this is the motorhome they currently have it's built on a Ford f53 chassis with a gas engine. The Ford chassis of this size generally have a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs. The trailer itself weighs over 2,100 lbs. That would limit the vehicle they load on it to less than 2,900 lbs. That's a pretty light car.
2013 Adventurer 32H
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:52 PM   #32
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Have your unit professionally installed for insurance purposes, too many lawyers out there trying to find fault when an accident occurs. We purchased a used Roadmaster tow bar with new base plate for our 06 Saturn, standard, Wiring to tail & break lites completed by same installer. Total cost with wiring harness and safety cables 1,200.00 No brake assistance required with DP with air brakes and dinghy is light to tow. No protection for road debris, one less item to attach when getting ready for tow except mud guard on RV. There are plenty of car washes in America, keep the cost down and also the hassles of hitching up toad. I back it up put in neutral emergency on so vehicle will not move when hitching up, put ignition on accessories so steering wheel will not be locked, release emergency brake on Saturn after hitched up completed, tie a white sock to top of steering wheel so I can see steering wheel on toad moving on left turns or when checking with rear mounted camera on RV. Check lites are OK by activating park lites and 4 way flasher on RV and ready to go 5 - 10 minutes with no assistance required.

Good Luck with your unit and towing apparatus, BE SAFE.
Jean (John) & Bev in Tidnish NS
2001 Itasca Horizon IKP 36CD
Cat 330 Freightliner 2006 Saturn
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:56 AM   #33
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We're in the same position of deciding what to get for our new coach. Thought I'd comment on some of the items we've pretty much decided:

Toad. Went with the 2014 Honda CRV. As previously noted, the 2014 is the last model year that allows 4 wheel down towing. New transmission prevents that starting 2015. Only minor issue seems to be need for an electrical bypass switch, or pull a fuse, to prevent a dead battery.

Base plate/tow bar. Blue Ox gets great reviews, so plan to get those for base plate and tow bar. We were at the Tampa RV show, and found they're coming out with a new tow bar, the "Avail" which has some good improvements (easier connect/disconnect, tighter turn radius, etc.)

Braking: Air Force 1 is what seems the best for a permanent install of a proportional braking system.
Ron & Mary
2015 Newmar Dutch Star 4002
2014 Honda CR-V
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:33 PM   #34
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This is a generic post, not specific to your car but it should address all your concerns:
First: Not all cars can be towed 4 down.. and with a gasser you must tow 4 down (Diesels can tow on a trailer but few gassers have the towing capacity).

Google; Remco Towing, go to the STORE link, enter your vehicle's particulars on the left, and read what it says on the right.

Now: The battery: One option is to install a Towed Charge system (Again you can google it) this system uses the Motor home alternator to top off the towed's battery.. Same as it does the house battery.

There is another option which I will cover on brakes.

The US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator is an electric over hydraulic system (The "Over hydraulic" simply means it uses your car's existin hydraulic brakes,, all the systems below do that). So it eats battery power.. included in the harness is a battery lead, There is a circuit breaker in the motor home at the chassis battery , forget if it's 20 or 40 amp without going out and looking at it, and another one at the towed's battery (the other size) and a heavy gauge wire (red) in the harness that connects the two breakers. There is a reason for two breakers,, This was of great help when one Jan-2 at around 2-3 AM I pulled out and found the tail lights on the towed were not lit.. After a quick review I simply hit the parking light switch on the towed and made the trip, got the wiring issue (in the motor home) fixed 2,000 miles later.. No problems with dead batteries,, The motor home kept it charged.

This system puts a "Power unit" normally under the towed's driver seat (Mine went elsewhere) but when properly installed it is completely hidden (mine was), hookup takes just a couple seconds (Plug it in and hook up safety cable) and you have full control over the system from the Motor home cockpit, I kind of like this system.

Next is the Ready Brake, which you can get with or without the Ready Brute tow bar (Cheaper, overall, with) also Blue-OX, auto stop.

These are surge brake, completely mechanical, no electrical or air needed (Save you might want the vacuum pump) self adjusting (nice feature) here is how it works. When you stop the towed tries to push you, instead it pushes on a spring, then a system of levers and cables pulls on the brake pedal on the towed, the harder you stop, the harder it pulls, if it pulls too hard the car slows and does not push as hard on the MH, so then the thing backs off. Very nice system.. Major fault..

IF you do not tow for like six months in the great white north where they salt the roads the cable can size up and .. Cost you a brake job.

Next we get an assortment of installed systems, Air force one, Invisibrake, and more, Invisibrake provides for towed charge via the tail light circuit. All good systems and I would not hesitate to recommend, Add the towed charge if you are worried about batteries.

Finally I will end with the pedal pushers, Like Brake Buddy, Even Brake, and such.

These are big boxy devices you have to install EVERY TIME YOU TOW, lots of work, then when you drive the towed you have to take them out and find a place to put 'em where they will not grow legs. They eat battery power, and do not provide a replacement for it.

That said, if you have a lot of different toweds or change often, Good idea, but if you plan on towing the same car for like 5 years.... That's a lot of installs, any one of which can be wrong and for a short trip a lot of Oh its too much trouble... OK S&&&& WISH ID PUT IT IN.

And again, you can always add the towed charge.

Some folks will tell you they have towed thousands of miles withotu starting the towed using these systems, and they are telling the truth but as batteries age they start saying "I only towed 240 miles and the car won't start"... (Time for a new battery).

I used the US-Gear on my first towed, Will use one of the surge brakes on my current once I'm back in place to tow it. (Just now I can not tow).

As for the car's electrical and odometer... Sometimes you need to pull a fuse,, You can but an overpriced (in my opinion) switch kit to make this easier (Most of the Tow Bar companies offer such a kit)

the Remco Towing store will tell you which fuse for most cars.
Home is where I park it!
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Old 02-14-2015, 01:14 PM   #35
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Why is it that some people want such a complicated system when they can go with a Blue-Ox base plate, a Ready Brute Elite tow bar/brake system and a Towmate wireless light bar. Just remember that those complicated/ sophisticated systems (or any System) are not going to malfunction when parked in your driveway. They will fail while on a trip. With that being said most will not be able to repair without professional help, and if they know you are traveling you will must likely pay dearly. A simple system is less likely to fail and if it does much easier to repair.
Thank You
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Old 02-17-2015, 01:00 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by vfauto View Post
Why is it that some people want such a complicated system when they can go with a Blue-Ox base plate, a Ready Brute Elite tow bar/brake system and a Towmate wireless light bar. Just remember that those complicated/ sophisticated systems (or any System) are not going to malfunction when parked in your driveway. They will fail while on a trip. With that being said most will not be able to repair without professional help, and if they know you are traveling you will must likely pay dearly. A simple system is less likely to fail and if it does much easier to repair.
I agree 100 percent. Just set up my Jeep Liberty for for around 400 dollars. Had the Blue Ox hitch on MH so just bought base plate. Got a wiring kit and a diode kit for the charge line, did the work myself. I also have a 2006 Saturn Ion that I pull. Bought the Jeep so I can take a ride off road when out West. I think if a person looked on-line he could pick up the hitch part that goes onto the MH used. Jim

2002 Newmar Dutch Star DP3569 330 CAT - Toad Jeep Liberty, DW is the Nagivator. Work to travel and everything revolves around the price of diesel.
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fuse, tow, towing

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