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Old 10-27-2014, 07:11 PM   #29
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If your jeep is a 2007 or newer that's not the correct part number. Did it connect under the dash behind the glove box and run along the right side fender up to the grill? The mopar # should be 82211156ab. If it is correct make sure the motorhome plug has a constant 12v wire. A friend with a Country Coach had to add the 12v to his plug.
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:24 PM   #30
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Hey JeepFreak.
Thanks for the follow up.
My Jeep has two harnesses under the right front fender and not under the passenger dash as described in the crappy instructional provided.
Fortunately I did not cut a hole through the fire wall.
Once I connected the harness I had no lights from the rig to the jeep.
Rig lights work fine.
I have even tried connecting my 7 pin to my 2014
Dodge Ram 2500. The thing I did notice is that there is a clicking relay sound from the jeep when connected. Additionally, now I have a check engine light on the Jeep which to me is BS!

The part number is what I have 82211156AB as recommended in this forum by others who have had success.
The conflicting opinions and the lack of understanding by the manufacture is frustrating. I am ready to try anything else so I can tow.
Everything else related to the hardware Blue Ox base plate and Ready Brute Elite was pretty simple. I haven't done the brake cable yet. I am sure that's easy too.

Any help or advise on the light assembly is much appreciated..
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:41 AM   #31
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Ok, Jeeps come in two (or 3) flavors: Those with manual transfer cases that have a genuine NEUTRAL: can be towed

1.1 Those which have had a recall done and the transfer case will no longer NEUTRAL: Can be towed after JEEP fixes what they broke in the recall

2: Two Wheel Drive (many were sold to the post office) or All Wheel Drive (Full time 4WD): can not be towed 4-down or from the front (on the RWD units) must be trailered, not dolly towed.

No jeep is recommended for dolly towing.

Assuming towable:

You need a tow bar.. I am partial to two of those, Blue-OX is what I have, i like it, it "Stows" on the motor home when I'm driving the towed.

All other models that stow on the motor home.. I have looked at several and frankly can not see a lot of difference.

Ready Brute with Ready Brake (Addresses next section) IF you tow often, being as the ready brake uses a cable and sleeve thing, if you do not exercise it often it can size up (happens at least once a year to my shifter cables on my bicycle or so it seems).. I just got done un-sizing the bicycle again.

Brakes: YES YOU NEED BRAKES.. See above paragraph.
If your Motor Home has air brakes, consider M*G, it is 100% invisible to the driver of the jeep, I mean nothing in the cockpit at all. Hooks up in just a couple seconds when you tow (plug in air hose, clip on safety line).

US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator (Electric system) Mounted you can see a clamp if you look for it.. But if you do not looks or wear size 13 gunboats you likely will not notice it. Most control over towed brakes of any system out there. Also easy hookup (replace hose above with a single 2-wire cable) provides for charging the towed's battery as well.

Invisible Brake
Air Force One
Stay & play
All the "installed" systems in fact.

What do I not recommend:

Box in the driver's seat like the classic Brake Buddy, Even Brake, Apolo systems, these have to be installed EVERY TIME YOU TOW and there is too much temptation to forget them for a short trip.

Also, every time you install is a chance to screw up, As the dealer did when he put in my US-Gear system.. And that gets expensive.
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:56 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osok View Post
...

Also installed a CoolTech wiring harness which worked okay but later learned it has a potential electrical feedback problem. This harness as stated to me by the owner of CoolTech, has conflicts between the Jeep turn signals and brake lights. Due to the potential problems with the CoolTech...
Could you elaborate on the problems you experienced? I have been using the CoolTech harness with no issues.

Also:

Quote:
Originally Posted by osok View Post
Since I started with above system I've changed coaches and now have air brakes. I will be installing an M&G braking system soon only because I want the ability to have proportional braking.
I am seriously considering the same thing. I started with a Gas Class-A (no air brakes), and thus purchased the Blue Ox Patriot braking system. It's ok, but not ideal. I now have a DP with air brakes and am considering the M&G. If you have knowledge of the level of difficulty for install, I'd be curious about this. I'm not a mechanic, but I think I could probably handle this?

ALSO--if you are so included, when you go about this install yourself, I would be very interested & grateful to follow your progress if you were to photo-document the steps!
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:34 AM   #33
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The mopar harness is one cable with a water tight end connector that removes so the other cable that goes to the MH can be plugged in. If your sure you've got the correct one, start the MH and then see if it works. I have to do that with mine.
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:40 AM   #34
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I just reread your post, did you install the harness? It has to connect to the jeep wiring inside behind the glove box(which is easy to remove). What year is your Wrangler? Make sure you plug it into the coach and check it with the engine running.
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:07 PM   #35
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[QUOTE=Peterrrr;2214467]
Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
First: MAKE SURE YOU CAN PUT THAT MANUAL TRANSFER CASE IN NEUTRAL.

If you often go many months without towing I would recommend against these systems as the brake cable tends to size up if not used often (like a parking brake cable, in fact it is exactly like a parking brake cable)


Not sure what you mean here? If you drive the toad that is hooked up with the ready brake cable, using the toads brakes moves the cable within the brake cable housing. Have not had any problems with a seizing cable on my toads, and I usually only tow them 6 months of the year. Drive them the rest of the year.
Peterrrr, I totally agree with you, we also only tow about 6 months of the year and have had no problem with the cable seizing. In fact I've asked on this forum if anyone has actually had this problem themselves and not just thought they heard that someone once had a cable seize up with the ReadyBrute. NO REPONSES came back from anyone that has actually had a cable seize up on them. I think this is just a rumor that keeps circulating occasionally simply because it seems to make sense to some people who have never used the ReadyBrute. I'm just guessing, because I have no experience with other toad brake systems, but I think there's a greater chance of an electrical problem with the electric toad brake systems than there is of the cable seizing up on the ReadyBrute, but again I have no data to justify that thought, so I don't normally tell anyone to not buy that one because it may have an electrical failure. I think all brakes systems probably work well for their intended use and purpose, they all are capable of failing one way or the other, and it really comes down to what makes you comfortable and how much do you want to spend?
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:17 PM   #36
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Jeep Wrangler Toad

I set up my 2012 Jeep Wrangler for Towing using a Ready Brute Elite Tow Bar with brake built in and a Currie base plate.
I never used it and it is for sale. We got hit by the Sandy Superstorm and have not been able to travel with our Motorhome. Our Jeep Lease will be up in 1 month so I am selling the whole set up.
By the way all you have to do is place the Jeep Transfer case in neutral, remove the key and you ar good to go. Since 2008-2009 there is no Locking Steering Column on Wranglers, Chrysler has just not bothered to re-write the owners manual. I set up a Light bar in the rear recever with the lights going directly to the MH wire plug, so no special harness or ECM re write is needed. No holes drilled for the bulb set up as well.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:21 PM   #37
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Removed Mopar harness

I have pulled the Mopar towing harness
Out of my jeep.

To answer some of the comments I will address them as much as I can.

My 2012 Jeep Wrangler 4 wheel drive
Automatic transmission did not have the plug or connector under the dash
As described In the Oem instructions.

If you look under the front right fender on the fire wall you would find
Two connections. Only one fits the Mopar harness.

Simply put I connected everything
And ran the cable to the connector
For the 7pin extension to the rig.
I had no lights while connected both key on and off. Both rig running and acc position.
The 7pin was tested from my dodge ram with the same result.

What did happens was a clicking sound under the hood and my check engine light can on.
I pulled the harness out and my cheek engine lights off. The cable is heading back to the factory.

I personally think it's a compatibility issue even though the Mopar harness part number is called out for this retrofit.
If there is anyone considering this retrofit I would look behind the glove box before you brake out the drill.
So you don't do what others have done before they realized there was non connection in the passenger side of the Jeep.

Hope this helps.

Still need light set up so I guess it's cool tech or some other splicing application for me!
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:33 PM   #38
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Cooltechllc.com works well on my 2013 Rubicon with auto tranny
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:32 PM   #39
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Ok it's cooltech

Quote:
Originally Posted by KIX View Post
Cooltechllc.com works well on my 2013 Rubicon with auto tranny
I just ordered the cool tech harness

Hoping for the resolution
So I can go take my baby
With me.

Thanks for all the advice.

More to follow soon
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:35 PM   #40
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Upon further research the model change
Of the engine is the issue for the 2012.
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Old 10-29-2014, 10:06 PM   #41
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That connection is not simply behind the glove box. Its way up in the corner behind the glove box. It's the second harness you will find.
I had to take the front seat loose in order to lay down then had to park the golf cart close enough to lay across it too. then had to unhook and install the Mopar wiring harness but it works great after you finally get it done. I forgot to mention taking off the right front fender too...
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:04 AM   #42
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Photos of the harnes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Hunt View Post
That connection is not simply behind the glove box. Its way up in the corner behind the glove box. It's the second harness you will find.
I had to take the front seat loose in order to lay down then had to park the golf cart close enough to lay across it too. then had to unhook and install the Mopar wiring harness but it works great after you finally get it done. I forgot to mention taking off the right front fender too...
Bill Hunt
Thanks Bill,

That's what the instructions say and just about everyone else said too.

I was on a Jeep Forum and I actually found a guy who had the same issues.
It figures the factory retro fit is correct ( Meaning the Harness will plug into the jeep, however the Jeep dealership needs to re program your computer after.
Problem is they do have that part figured out yet..
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