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Old 03-19-2019, 05:20 PM   #1
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Hitch Dragging

I installed the NSA Ready Brute Elite and the Blue Ox Baseplate on our MH and 2018 Cruze. Had some real issues getting the cables routed and installed, but got past it.

But to get the tow bar within the required angle range, I had to add a 2" drop. A 4" would bring it closer to level, but would actually have the tow bar pointing down to the MH so I went with a 2". The first gas station we went to with a less than perfect driveway, I drug the hitch and smashed both brake away cables and broke the breakaway brake cable.

I bought some cable and made my own replacement brake cable, and tie wrapped the cables as best I could to keep them up. Next bad driveway the break away cables got smashed again. This time they were smashed in the ring under the hitch that they are supposed to pass through.

Does anyone else have these type of issues. It really seems to me if they want the tow bar angle so close to level then Blue Ox should make the attachments come out higher. Not knocking Blue Ox, but the only solution I can think of is to get rid of the drop, and not have the angle within specs.
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Old 03-19-2019, 05:32 PM   #2
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Keep the angle within the range as stated by ready brake. Outside the range will make the braking less predictable, among other things.

I'd get a roller attachment for the receiver, and run the cables above the hitch.

Driveway entered at a 45 deg angle will often help.
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Old 03-19-2019, 05:36 PM   #3
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Hitch problems

I have had the same problem with certain entrances to gas stations. I seem to have better luck taking such entrances at a 45 deg. angle. My 2" ball lock nut is well worn from such entrances and exits. Judging by the grooves cut into the pavement, we are not alone with this problem.
2017 Coachmen/Forest River Pursuit 30FW

Quote:
Originally Posted by KWiK View Post
I installed the NSA Ready Brute Elite and the Blue Ox Baseplate on our MH and 2018 Cruze. Had some real issues getting the cables routed and installed, but got past it.

But to get the tow bar within the required angle range, I had to add a 2" drop. A 4" would bring it closer to level, but would actually have the tow bar pointing down to the MH so I went with a 2". The first gas station we went to with a less than perfect driveway, I drug the hitch and smashed both brake away cables and broke the breakaway brake cable.

I bought some cable and made my own replacement brake cable, and tie wrapped the cables as best I could to keep them up. Next bad driveway the break away cables got smashed again. This time they were smashed in the ring under the hitch that they are supposed to pass through.

Does anyone else have these type of issues. It really seems to me if they want the tow bar angle so close to level then Blue Ox should make the attachments come out higher. Not knocking Blue Ox, but the only solution I can think of is to get rid of the drop, and not have the angle within specs.
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Old 03-20-2019, 07:16 AM   #4
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I bought and installed a kit from source engineering to push button on dash and inflate the rear air bags and it will raise the rear up about 5-6” then back to normal ride height when button released

I have to be careful to lower rear before my trailer rear end drags tho. .
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:17 AM   #5
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Thanks all for the reply's. Just seems like something the manufactures could get together on and somehow get the hitches high enough that it would be rare to drag. I guess I will look into a roller attachment. Hopefully I will be able to keep the safety cables underneath the bar. Aren't they underneath to attempt to keep the bar up in a brake away and not pole vault the car?
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Old 03-20-2019, 07:27 PM   #6
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Probably has to do with the style of the ready brute. It is much longer near the receiver than a typical tow bar.
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWiK View Post
Thanks all for the reply's. Just seems like something the manufactures could get together on and somehow get the hitches high enough that it would be rare to drag. I guess I will look into a roller attachment. Hopefully I will be able to keep the safety cables underneath the bar. Aren't they underneath to attempt to keep the bar up in a brake away and not pole vault the car?
KWiK,
Well, there's only about a zillion different type of scenarios, hook-ups, coaches, toads, differences between the two, and a whole lot more. What we might suggest could be WAAAAAAAAY OFF in your application. What we need here is, a photo of your coach, and toad hooked up, on FLAT AND LEVEL ground. When we see that, it will be a whooolllllle lot easier to accurately suggest a remedy.

In our RVing and camping career, we've seen every angle a tow bar can possibly sustain between motorhomes and toads. I mean, STEEPER than a 45 degree angle as the coach and toad were level. And, guess what, they still motor'd down the road. Nobody died.

But, if you're trying to be at least somewhat conscious of your towing characteristics, yes, the OPTIMUM is dead level between the coach and toad on flat level ground. But, just how many times that's achieved, not a clue. We have two different toads. An '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4 (stock height, no lift) and, a '15 Jeep JKUR with a leveling kit and 35's. The Jeep has the tow bar about couple inches above level. The truck, about a couple inches below level. I'm fine with each setup.

Now, just how much you need to alter one or the other of your tow setup, as stated, is real tough to say, based on your description. This is why we need a pic.
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWiK View Post
Thanks all for the reply's. Just seems like something the manufactures could get together on and somehow get the hitches high enough that it would be rare to drag. I guess I will look into a roller attachment. Hopefully I will be able to keep the safety cables underneath the bar. Aren't they underneath to attempt to keep the bar up in a brake away and not pole vault the car?


Your problem has less to do with the motorhome hitch and more to do with the low front end of the Chevy Cruse. Without the drop hitch it probably wouldn’t drag much if any at all.

As others have suggested try to keep the towbar angles within manufacturers specs but if you are at the very edge of the recommended limit its not that big a deal.

A roller on the bottom of the hitch will work but that typically reduces clearance even more and is likely to drag more than no roller.

Good luck. Many people with very low toads have the same problem.
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Old 03-21-2019, 07:09 AM   #9
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It also can vary by manufacturer design of the base plate. I have seen pictures that show the blue ox below the front bumper and the roadmaster comes out above in the grill.

When I was shopping for my base plate, I took that into consideration. I chose the manufacture that matched the level of my coach.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:47 AM   #10
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Dragging is one thing, but smashing the safety cables each time is another. Most likely I will try a roller on the hitch next time.

Unfortunately we are back home in snow country and I won't be messing with the hitch for about another month, so I won't be able to provide good pictures. The attached is the only one I have. The centerline of the 2" hitch is 13.25" off the ground, and the car is 9.75"
Click image for larger version

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I wish I had thought to look at the height on different brands.
Compare the height in the picture of mine here

and a ford that I saved the picture off of here
Click image for larger version

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Old 03-22-2019, 04:46 PM   #11
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I would get with a good welder and have him raise the mounts on the car end.
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Old 03-22-2019, 04:52 PM   #12
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KWIK,
Thanks for providing a pic. Although your attached tow bar is not LEVEL, from the angle of the picture, it doesn't look all that bad in terms of incorrect angle. I'm not seeing it directly from the side so, it's kinda hard to really get a good eye on it. But, from what I see, I can't see why you'd be potentially damaging any front end components on the toad, with that slight of an angle.
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Old 03-22-2019, 06:57 PM   #13
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I believe a big part of the issue is with that Braking adapter that extends the bar out so much.
Even though the car is low, it never gets any lower than it is setting still.

On the other hand when you turn into a parking lot with the dip, that long extended breaking part of the tow bar dips way lower than the actual RV hitch.

If you could borrow a regular tow bar for a short time and see how that works would be my suggestion.

I towed an HHR for a few years and the crossbar was only 11" off the ground at most. Drug one time until I learned to exit parking lots at a 45゚ angle. Roadmaster Sterling tow Bar which has channels for the Cables To Go through So they could not drag.
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Old 03-23-2019, 12:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I believe a big part of the issue is with that Braking adapter that extends the bar out so much.
Even though the car is low, it never gets any lower than it is setting still.

On the other hand when you turn into a parking lot with the dip, that long extended breaking part of the tow bar dips way lower than the actual RV hitch.

If you could borrow a regular tow bar for a short time and see how that works would be my suggestion.

I towed an HHR for a few years and the crossbar was only 11" off the ground at most. Drug one time until I learned to exit parking lots at a 45゚ angle. Roadmaster Sterling tow Bar which has channels for the Cables To Go through So they could not drag.
You are probably correct on that, accompanied by a drop hitch witch sticks it out even farther. Also the distance the hitch is behind the rear axle has an effect. Mine isn't nearly as bad as some of them I have seen, but it is still a fair distance.
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