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Old 01-11-2014, 06:12 AM   #15
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Just a side note to the FIT

After adding the Roadmaster base plates , breaks, lights and a receiver hitch to carry a bike the overall fuel economy dropped 4 MPG over 10,000 miles. Don't get me wrong I still love the car. It's just that all the added weight and drag make a big difference.

John
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:11 AM   #16
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I bought the 2013 Honda fit to tow behind my 35 foot suncruiser gas class A. I installed the blue ox base plate which was not bad to do. I am using the RVbrake 2 which is easy to use and install.The only thing I don't like is Honda wants you to remove the radio fuse which is 30 amp and it is not easy to get to.(abovr driver's foot well behind a panel) I thought about the remote switch from roadmaster but they are not rated for 30 amp. I did not run a charge wire from motor home to charge fit's battery but a am using a jump start battery pack on passenger floor to power unit so I don't run down battery. I am using magnetic lights so I did not have to cut into wiring. The other reason I did this is if you use diodes & converter the amber turn signal tights will come on when motorhome brakes are applied. Honda is very specific on procedures to get transmission ready for towing without damaging it. I guess if procedure is not followed transmission can be damaged.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:42 AM   #17
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I have a 2012 FIT Sport auto. trans. that we bought new last year. We flat towed it from upstate NY to Orlando FL and back last year with no problems.
I am sharing my experience, NOT MAKING ANY RECOMMENDATIONS.
I followed the procedure in the manual every time we started out unless it was just a gas stop. I don't need transmission problems. I had the Blue Ox tow system installed and it is great. I towed in neutral (park - reverse - drive - neutral) with the radio off and the steering unlocked.
I do not remove any fuses.
I do not use any auxiliary brakes.
We towed 1200 miles without unhooking, starting it to go through the transmission procedure only. I didn't notice any significant battery discharge. Maybe the brake device is what drains the battery.
We are very happy with the car.
AGAIN, I AM NOT RECOMMENDING TOWING WITHOUT BRAKES.
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Old 09-05-2014, 03:10 PM   #18
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I have a 2013 Honda fit, which I'm getting ready to tow. Can someone tell me about having to remove the 30 Amp radio fuse, and why? I will be putting a Brakemaster 9000 air operating brake. Do I need to disconnect the fuse? I'm also thinking of magnetic lights.
Any and all comments would be appreciated.
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCSAILS View Post
I have a 2013 Honda fit, which I'm getting ready to tow. Can someone tell me about having to remove the 30 Amp radio fuse, and why? I will be putting a Brakemaster 9000 air operating brake. Do I need to disconnect the fuse? I'm also thinking of magnetic lights.
Any and all comments would be appreciated.
I can't speak specifically to the Fit, but the CR-V also has a fuse that has to be removed to prevent battery drain during towing. A lot of these newer cars have electronics that never really turn off and the small current drain can be a problem after a long day of towing.

Because the fuses on the CR-V are difficult for old guys with bifocals to locate and pull every time we tow, we installed a ToadCharge charging cable to provide 12V power to the toad's battery (there are several other equivalent systems sold). An alternative approach is to use a FuseSwitch so the fuse doesn't have to physically be removed.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:06 PM   #20
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The FMCA list shows only vehicles that the manufacturer has OK'd to be towed four down without modifications, so not all vehicles are shown. When a manufacturer changes their "mind" about towing it won't be reflected in the listing, even online. So the Fit may reappear later in the year.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:24 PM   #21
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I believe that the 2014 Fit has a CVT transmission. The 2015 Fit definitely has a CVT. According to auto magazines the new Honda CRV will also have CVT's. We will just have to wait and see whether Honda will approve flat towing. They have been very popular toads.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:04 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCSAILS View Post
I have a 2013 Honda fit, which I'm getting ready to tow. Can someone tell me about having to remove the 30 Amp radio fuse, and why? I will be putting a Brakemaster 9000 air operating brake. Do I need to disconnect the fuse? I'm also thinking of magnetic lights.
Any and all comments would be appreciated.
I am using magnetic lights on my 2013 Fit. I have not removed the fuse it is too hard to get to. I looked into the switched fuse but the rating of the ones a saw (roadmaster) was not high enough. I have not had any problems with battery run down but as I said I am using magnetic lights and my braking system I am running off of a portable battery on the floor of the car.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:23 AM   #23
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I tow my 2012 Fit with a Ready Brute tow bar with a ready brake and Roadmaster base plates. works great. got a tail light wiring harness from eTrailer that was an easy plug and play installation. as for removing the fuze, I looked at the $50-$75 bypass switches, and determined that was a BIG ripoff. I simply went to a local parts store and puchased a toggle switch with a bit higher capacity that the fuze i was replacing (it was a black one that looked pretty stock). couple of short wires and small blade connectors to plug into where the fuze sat. drilled a hole in the in the replaceable switch panel on the left lower dash to mount the switch. Works great and cost less than $10. hardest part was getting my old bones to bend far enough to get to the fuze panel (couldn't they have made it a bit easier to access?)
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:48 PM   #24
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I tow my 2012 Fit with a Ready Brute tow bar with a ready brake and Roadmaster base plates. works great. got a tail light wiring harness from eTrailer that was an easy plug and play installation. as for removing the fuze, I looked at the $50-$75 bypass switches, and determined that was a BIG ripoff. I simply went to a local parts store and puchased a toggle switch with a bit higher capacity that the fuze i was replacing (it was a black one that looked pretty stock). couple of short wires and small blade connectors to plug into where the fuze sat. drilled a hole in the in the replaceable switch panel on the left lower dash to mount the switch. Works great and cost less than $10. hardest part was getting my old bones to bend far enough to get to the fuze panel (couldn't they have made it a bit easier to access?)
I hope you also wired your fuse into your switch line somehow. I hate to suggest bending your old bones again but if you didn't wire in the fuse it means you have an unprotected circuit which may possibly cause a fire.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:07 AM   #25
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I hope you also wired your fuse into your switch line somehow. I hate to suggest bending your old bones again but if you didn't wire in the fuse it means you have an unprotected circuit which may possibly cause a fire.
yep, did that to protect the circuit. still a bunch cheaper than buying the same setup from CW or otheres.
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