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Old 01-21-2015, 07:38 PM   #15
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MY opinion is that the equalizer hitch does absolutely help in the quality of the ride even with auto Air bag suspension. It help to distribute the weight into the entire frame of the MH. We travel as if it isn't even attached. I tried it without the WD hitch and it was not as good. The proper way to set up the WD hitch is to let your MH air up and settle on level ground. Once normalized turn off the engine and load up the trailer to the hitch.

Note if there was any change in the height of the front or rear when loaded. Adjust the chains until you get the height back to the normal measurements. Now you will have a very smooth ride with great load distribution. Our trailer is 100 percent level the MH is level and the entire mechanized mass operates as one cohesive unit.

Just sayin - that is my experience. I have used this same hitch for over 25 years on several type of rigs. over 20K miles of towing must mean something.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:25 PM   #16
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My rig going down a tight highway near Cass, Ark., and parked at Byrd's Adventure Center CG with air down. I really think the tongue weight on your trailer will still be more than the Edge can handle, even if you're only parking the trailer. My old trailer, 24' Forest River cargo trailer empty squatted a 1/2 ton dodge crew cab truck. I would at least try it at home before you go anywhere. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:26 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
Here is a thread Weight Distribution Yes or No? on this, and some more to study and read https://www.google.com/search?q=air+...v2.com&spell=1

There is no need for a weight distributing system on a air ride/level controlled air spring suspension. These systems(WDH) were designed to work with leaf/coil spring suspension's. Your air suspension level control valve's will keep your suspension at the "set" ride height, no matter how you load it..........
That is strange my DP with air ride requires a WD hitch over 5k trailer weight. Only flat or dolly tow is allowed to 10k without a WD hitch.
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Old 01-22-2015, 05:02 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by msturtz View Post
That is strange my DP with air ride requires a WD hitch over 5k trailer weight. Only flat or dolly tow is allowed to 10k without a WD hitch.
That is just what the sticker on the hitch states, that same hitch is used on chassis with leaf spring suspension also............you have to think/understand the science behind the air ride suspension and what the weight distributing system does, for most, front axles are close ,if not over on weight when the Coach is fully loaded.....now the front end is getting more weight distributed to it, and while the rear air bags are letting air out due to less weight on the ball from the WDS, the front suspension air control senses more weight and adds air to the front air springs, making for a harder ride and so on..........
On most Coach's, the rear axle has the most room for more weight.......
One last question, if one drops a trailer with 1k of tongue weight and a chasiss with "Air ride" suspension, and the added weight lowers the suspension for a minute or so till the air ride level control senses/works and adds air to the air springs, and brings the suspension back up to the "set ride height".........other than relieving weight off the hitch it self......what is the WDS doing? Transfering the tongue weight.......to mayne some place that don't need more weight? Just my thoughts through testing.........The only purpose that is served by using one is to meet the weight demands of the hitch manufacture or to transfer weith to the trailer/front axle's. Maybe a heavier duty hitch? If using a WDS , one might want to weigh their axle's after loading, and ready to travel? Like post before, if it works ....great.
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Old 01-22-2015, 07:16 AM   #19
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Klcracing, I installed a hitch yesterday and will be trying it out later today or tomorrow. Will let you know how it worked.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:29 AM   #20
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I hope you got a trailer with a 1foot longer tongue for towing behind a motorhome. You're going to need it. You might be able to add a longer stinger to your hitch, but that might add too much leverage to the hitch, bending it the same as adding too much hitch weight. Depends on the hitch. Been there, done that still on occasion. Cross tie the car, or you might find it'll walk sideways in the trailer,
I tie down the car by passing the strap through the wheel spoke. Never moves.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:44 AM   #21
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Anytime I have had to unhook at a park, they move the trailer for me. I had thought to put a hitch on the Corvette to be able to park the trailer but it would require using extra mirrors attached to the car like I had used towing a pop up. Since the parks have trucks, I don't worry about it. My friend has an electric trailer mover, very compact.
A friend at this park towed the trailer for me to a shop to have the front straighten from a jack knife.
Hooking up is easy using the MH camera focused on the hitch, do it without help.
Backing up is easy using mirrors. Just turn the wheel the opposite of the way you want the trailer to go.
If you still want to use the car, maybe air shocks would work. What a pain though.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:31 PM   #22
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I hooked the Edge to the trailer and towed it around the storage lot. It stayed nice and level and I was able drive it around without any problems. Parking was a bitch though because I need an extended mirror. I think it will work well.
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Old 01-23-2015, 10:18 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
That is just what the sticker on the hitch states, that same hitch is used on chassis with leaf spring suspension also............you have to think/understand the science behind the air ride suspension and what the weight distributing system does, for most, front axles are close ,if not over on weight when the Coach is fully loaded.....now the front end is getting more weight distributed to it, and while the rear air bags are letting air out due to less weight on the ball from the WDS, the front suspension air control senses more weight and adds air to the front air springs, making for a harder ride and so on..........
On most Coach's, the rear axle has the most room for more weight.......
One last question, if one drops a trailer with 1k of tongue weight and a chasiss with "Air ride" suspension, and the added weight lowers the suspension for a minute or so till the air ride level control senses/works and adds air to the air springs, and brings the suspension back up to the "set ride height".........other than relieving weight off the hitch it self......what is the WDS doing? Transfering the tongue weight.......to mayne some place that don't need more weight? Just my thoughts through testing.........The only purpose that is served by using one is to meet the weight demands of the hitch manufacture or to transfer weith to the trailer/front axle's. Maybe a heavier duty hitch? If using a WDS , one might want to weigh their axle's after loading, and ready to travel? Like post before, if it works ....great.
I agree with all you say. My only variation is that once the link adjustment is made to adjust the drop in the hitchpoint with the engine off, a portion of the weight will be delivered to the front axle which in my case improves the feel of the steering and minimizes any porpoising effect at the hitch point.

the only advise from FL is the rear axle can handle the load but would do a weight check on all axle to make sure the front was not overloaded. Overall felt the only real question on the weight is the frame capacity.

my receiver is a custom built 10K with the receiver tube extended to allow welding and gussets to the rear motor mount. the cross bar is welded up 2 x2 with a 2x4 on top. It aint a gonin to bend. He said.
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I tie down the car by passing the strap through the wheel spoke. Never moves.
We do the same. There is no frame on the Cadillac to tie down. I do use a set of dual ring straps through the wheels to protect the finish. Go them at Tractor supply. The ratchet straps are from harbor freight. It is possible for the car straps to loosen during the trip so I will check and re- ratchet about 300 miles out. I also carry various motorcycles. I found the rear wheel must be secured too. I screw toe 2x4s to the floor on each side of the wheel to stop side movement. the front gets set into the heavy duty Harbor Freight MC stand with the tie down eyes built in. That is bolted to the floor with large U bolts purchased from Heckt trailer supply.

We also find it useful to use the small bottle scale to check the hitch ball load. We also found that the load characteristic varies a lot with different vehicles in the trailer. Significantly so much that we had to back the Hyundai in to the trailer but the Caddy straight in. The Jag on the otherhand was so light it didn't matter.
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:39 AM   #25
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I'm glad it works, as that is a testament to "FORD TOUGH"! Enjoy your travels!
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Old 02-05-2015, 02:03 PM   #26
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Hello, while waiting for other's to post,.........here is a thread you might be interested in Trailers you tow behind your MH / Pictures of the whole rig
Very good thread plus a lot of information to help you. I have a 5' extended tongue and I still must be careful backing not to get the corner of the coach into the trailer.

I also use a Sherline Trailer tongue scale as I put many variations of vehicles or Harleys in my trailer.

I also usually go through the spoke on the wheels with ratchet strap with a soft cotton towel to protect the chrome wheels. With air ride on my vehicles the ratchet straps will loosen. I also apply the emergency brake securely prior to putting the transmission in park so when I ratchet the vehicle down I am not putting additional stress on the transmission.
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Old 02-05-2015, 02:26 PM   #27
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trailer

Yup haul 24' 10K with 60 inch tongue, trailer will never hit coach, hitch will hit tongue first, run 16K 4 inch lift ball mount and 16 K 2 5/16 ball, I run tpms on trailer tire and coach I think everyone should, don't need equalizer with air suspension and tag axle, even without tag don't need with air suspension, doesn't do anything, put the bagger in the front and car in to achieve 1000lbs on tongue, dont even feel it behind us, I have surge brakes no need for any additional wring. make sure you have good tire,s good hitch, tpms, and practice in a parking lot, they are long, we tie the car down with e trac and erickson tires nets on all four, easy to install, keep the car where its supposed to be, I would cross tie if on bad roads

Good luck you will enjoy it

Moxy
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Old 02-05-2015, 02:29 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
Very good thread plus a lot of information to help you. I have a 5' extended tongue and I still must be careful backing not to get the corner of the coach into the trailer.

I also use a Sherline Trailer tongue scale as I put many variations of vehicles or Harleys in my trailer.

I also usually go through the spoke on the wheels with ratchet strap with a soft cotton towel to protect the chrome wheels. With air ride on my vehicles the ratchet straps will loosen. I also apply the emergency brake securely prior to putting the transmission in park so when I ratchet the vehicle down I am not putting additional stress on the transmission.
coach is only 8.5 feet wide you would have to wrap her all the way around to hit, 5' tongue gives ya 10 feet of clearance on 8.5 foot coach

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