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Old 11-19-2013, 11:06 PM   #15
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I am going through the process myself. Tired of renting a vehicle,, and some places we have gone there are no car rental places nearby. While heavy, I will tow my truck, took the DP to the scales, had the hitch inspected and there are no issues there with weight.
I am just surprised at the cost for some of the things you need.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UsualSuspect
I am going through the process myself. Tired of renting a vehicle,, and some places we have gone there are no car rental places nearby. While heavy, I will tow my truck, took the DP to the scales, had the hitch inspected and there are no issues there with weight. I am just surprised at the cost for some of the things you need.
Keep in mind that, depending on the weight of your truck, you'll likely need an 8K -10K lb towbar to pull the truck. In mountains a heavy vehicle can cause overheating (found out with our Yukon last spring) and taxes the braking system on downgrades if you don't have a good PAC or Jake brake. We sold the Yukon and opted for a Scion xB. Remarkable room and comfort and just over 3000 lbs. the only caveat is that any Toyota must be a manual transmission. My suggestion is a Honda CRV, light-weight, rated for flat-towing with the auto grand, and the new units are getting 30mpg. We've done the Honda Accord, which are towable either manual or auto, and we have friends who tow a Honda Oddesy. However, you'll want at least a 2008 model Odessy for transmission reliability. Questions? Go to www.remcotowing.com. Great source for towability info.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:11 AM   #17
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Have done dolly and flat-tow. It's flat-tow hands down. If you have lots of time on your hands and want to mess with straps (often wet from weather) and ratchets and ramps, but a dolly. You can get a used one cheaper than the flat-tow equipment. I can disconnect my flat-tow rig in under a minute and be gone. You can even back up a little if your units are lines up straight, not far, but enough to often avoid having to disconnect and re-hook. Can't do that with a dolly because the pivot platen turns far too quickly. If you vacation for a couple of weeks and then are home, do the dolly. If you are use your RV regularly through the year, you'll much prefer flat-towing. By the way, I have done two tow bracket installs myself. No big mysteries, just takes a few hours and saves a bunch. Even doing the tail-light hookups is not tough.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:53 AM   #18
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I have rented a car. But here is something that kind of surprised me.. now when last I rented a car (Memorial Day Weekend) it cost me like 350 for the weekend, rental and insurance.. Glad I opted for insurance as it turns out the state I live in, if you have an existing AUTOMOBILE policy then a rental is auto-covered to the same extend... Only the insurance company says my class A is NOT an automobile? (Say What) and refuses to cover a rental (no problem)

Towing,, Well it cost me about 2,000 to make my new towed into a towed. That is one time, I'll not spend that till I get another new towed. Total cost was higher but I already had an "old" towed which I re-used somewhat.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:13 AM   #19
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Nothing wrong with going Toad-less for awhile. We went for a year without one, we were new to RV'ing and the whole thing could have been written off as a no go if we did not feel it was worth the effort.

Ended up we recently bought an ACME Tow Dolly and a KIA Soul. The 4 down vs Dolly crowds will argue until the sun goes down on the virtues and downfall of each. I chose to go dolly because of the lower initial cost and no modification required to the towed vehicle, repeat none!! Not all tow dollys are the same so if you get interested choose carefully, some are complicated, some easily damage your car, some are quite heavy and awkward to move around. Add a trailer hitch to your car so you can manipulate the dolly if it is a heavy model. Lots of videos on dolly and tow bars just Google and enjoy.
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picantedj View Post
Keep in mind that, depending on the weight of your truck, you'll likely need an 8K -10K lb towbar to pull the truck. In mountains a heavy vehicle can cause overheating (found out with our Yukon last spring) and taxes the braking system on downgrades if you don't have a good PAC or Jake brake. We sold the Yukon and opted for a Scion xB. Remarkable room and comfort and just over 3000 lbs. the only caveat is that any Toyota must be a manual transmission. My suggestion is a Honda CRV, light-weight, rated for flat-towing with the auto grand, and the new units are getting 30mpg. We've done the Honda Accord, which are towable either manual or auto, and we have friends who tow a Honda Oddesy. However, you'll want at least a 2008 model Odessy for transmission reliability. Questions? Go to www.remcotowing.com. Great source for towability info.
A new vehicle is not in the budget for at least 2 years. The DW won't even try and drive a stick, me I grew up and learned on a 47 Ford. I have settled on the BlueOx Aventa LX, and will get the base plate from them.
Braking is where I am the difficult time. I am not sure I want to deal with taking something out and putting it back in all the time, am leaning towards a RoadMaster Invisibrake. Eventually I will get it sorted. Hoping to find a used Aventa and save a few bucks.
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