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Old 08-19-2015, 07:30 AM   #15
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Follow up ---

I just finished a five week trip out west --- about 5-6,000 miles -- with the M&G on my Explorer.
The M&G performed well on the mountains out west. I had some downgrades of 8-10% for a couple of miles -- no issues at all.
(I did the installation myself also)

thx Dale
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Old 08-19-2015, 12:29 PM   #16
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Follow up ---

I just finished a five week trip out west --- about 5-6,000 miles -- with the M&G on my Explorer.
The M&G performed well on the mountains out west. I had some downgrades of 8-10% for a couple of miles -- no issues at all.
(I did the installation myself also)

thx Dale
Hey Dale,
Glad to know the M & G is doing well. We just did a short trip since the install and, ours is doing just great too. I'd like to install a notification system that tells me when the M & G is working but, it's too intense of an install for me to worry about it. Until then, I'll just assume it's working.
Scott
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Old 08-19-2015, 01:02 PM   #17
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Scott, just unhook the airhose for a little ways. Won't be a doubt in your mind it's not working. Had a coupler come apart on mine once. Knew first time I touched the brakes wasn't working.
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Old 08-19-2015, 01:58 PM   #18
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Hey Dale,
Glad to know the M & G is doing well. We just did a short trip since the install and, ours is doing just great too. I'd like to install a notification system that tells me when the M & G is working but, it's too intense of an install for me to worry about it. Until then, I'll just assume it's working.
Scott
Scott I plan on installing a T on top of the M&G with a low pressure (if needed) brake light switch and run the wires to a red LED (about 1/2 inch across ) that is attached to my front tag holder, we don't use front tags in MS. I have a small LED in my dash but I always forgot it was there and think I would notice the light on front of the truck(F150 ) in my rear camera easier.
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Old 08-21-2015, 07:32 PM   #19
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I've had a M and G in use since 2009 .. Absolutely flawless and transparent.
It works well , mile after mile .
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Old 08-22-2015, 03:51 PM   #20
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Well I decided to go from the Roadmaster Brakemaster on the F150 (but will keep it on the Kia ) to the M&G as I have always liked the design, it so simple. The M&G was not a problem to install but I had to cut the coolant tank from the air filter box and relocate it and I am not satisfied with the new mount or location, I'm going to try and come up with something better and different.
I made the 2 mile run without touching the foot brake checked the disk temp and tested ok, checked out the breakaway and it tested ok. Will test it behind the coach later.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:32 PM   #21
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Well I decided to go from the Roadmaster Brakemaster on the F150 (but will keep it on the Kia ) to the M&G as I have always liked the design, it so simple. The M&G was not a problem to install but I had to cut the coolant tank from the air filter box and relocate it and I am not satisfied with the new mount or location, I'm going to try and come up with something better and different.
I made the 2 mile run without touching the foot brake checked the disk temp and tested ok, checked out the breakaway and it tested ok. Will test it behind the coach later.
One problem with the M&G install they had warned to be sure to use the O ring off of the brake cylinder but when I pulled my cyl off I didn't see a O ring.
Made a long trip and got a brake light I called M&G to see if they could help me and he said if we don't mash the brake with the engine off and deplete the vacuum in the pot it will suck the O ring off and be somewhere in the pot, found the O ring and reinstalled. Sure wish they had put a little warning about depleting the vacuum but all in all it was not a big deal just a heads up for anyone else that does the job.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:55 PM   #22
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How difficult was the breakaway to install, and if you tested it, how well does it work?
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:29 PM   #23
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How difficult was the breakaway to install, and if you tested it, how well does it work?
I already had a breakaway installed from the Roadmaster Brakemaster but the hardest part of installing a breakaway system is finding a good place to mount it, it was easy on the F150 lots of room just inside the front just below the grill. Hooking up a breakaway is just run a ground wire to the Mac valve and a hot but the hot goes through the breakaway switch and the other side of the wire goes to the Mac valve then you coach air goes in one side of the mac valve (after 3 or4 brake activations the air cyl fills) out the other to the M&G and yes it tested and it held by starting the truck in drive to test.
I did modify the coolant tank brace it now looks OK lots better than before.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:20 PM   #24
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There is not much room under the hood these days. I looked through the directions and saw the air tank and the valve assembly, and my first thought was where do you put it, and how large is it. Unlike my 47 Ford with a flathead where you could crawl under the hood with it, your toolbox, and an extra set of hand if you needed them. I like the system, but they should really throw in the breakaway kit since you need one anyway.
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:22 AM   #25
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There is not much room under the hood these days. I looked through the directions and saw the air tank and the valve assembly, and my first thought was where do you put it, and how large is it. Unlike my 47 Ford with a flathead where you could crawl under the hood with it, your toolbox, and an extra set of hand if you needed them. I like the system, but they should really throw in the breakaway kit since you need one anyway.

The M&G breakaway is over $50 cheaper than Roadmaster.
The brake way would not cost much to build your self using a Mac valve
35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA a few 1/4 fittings a 1/4 check valve but the hard thing to find or build is the little tank, it could be smaller than M&G or Roadmaster tank, when I tested there was enough air to hold the M&G after pulling the breakaway and shoving it back in slot 3 times, it will spit out a little air each time it is pushed back in to unload the cylender. The Mac valve can be installed in the incoming 1/4 air line and the cylender about any where you just would have to run the air lines to it.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:20 AM   #26
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I've had a M and G in use since 2009 .. Absolutely flawless and transparent.
It works well , mile after mile .

After 3 years/24,000 miles with mine..I've never given the toad braking system another thought. I find it absolutely amazing how little consideration is paid to the M & G system on this forum...considering how many problems are encountered with all the complicated electric actuator systems and their computer controls.
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:41 PM   #27
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After 3 years/24,000 miles with mine..I've never given the toad braking system another thought. I find it absolutely amazing how little consideration is paid to the M & G system on this forum...considering how many problems are encountered with all the complicated electric actuator systems and their computer controls.
Air Baron,
I kind-a agree with you about the somewhat limited mention of the M & G braking system on this forum. But, in all fairness and honesty, I'm sure that you'll agree that:

1. The M & G system is not made for many of the towable toads
2. It's primarily designed for Diesel/Air braked coaches
3. There's those that are afraid to tap into the air systems on their coaches for this type of system

There are probably more reasons but, I think those could be the top ones. I wish I'd have gone to it when I first purchased this diesel coach of ours, just over 4 years ago. I think, without a doubt, it's the most efficient, less complicated, least amount of moving parts which, leads to less chance of brake-down and troubles, non-dependent of electrical input from anything, much less any computer, and more.

But again, not every one has a diesel pusher which these are primarily designed to be used with. They can be used on a gas coach but, with considerable mods and, auxiliary equipment. For those that have the D/P coaches and, a toad that these can be used on, I'd surely at least, take a look at the system and then decide for yourself.
Scott
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:03 PM   #28
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Scott
I do agree the system is not for every application. However, it has been around for almost 40 years and just because it is old school does not mean the new systems are more reliable/less problematic. If something can go wrong...it will...and does...quite often as evidenced by the number of posts in this towing forum complaining about ineffective or unintended braking. I have previously asked for anyone to come forward with an M & G braking problem...and am still waiting. Your DIY write up is excellent and should go a long way towards hopefully converting some of the non-believing newbie diesel pusher herd.
Dennis
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