Community Forums

FIRE UP · 09-12-2015, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PanJH

Scott - good ideas ! I've had the Rampage in the Ranger for 4 yrs. I had been sliding it off when not in use onto a couple saw horses, but never liked that setup due to the weight of the Rampage and the difficulty in sliding it off/on. About 6 months ago, I was looking at stuff on Craigslist ( where btw, I picked up the rampage) and saw a ad for a 8 ft section of roller conveyor. It has adjustable legs, I have it set up at about the same height as the Ranger bed and now I just slide it off/on. I'll need to readjust the height as the F-150 is significantly higher.
I like your idea with the angle up front. On the old truck, I installed the nutserts in the front as well as the rear. I didn't like the idea if only the nutserts holding the front, so I used longer bolts up front and then crawled underneath and put a piece of channel over the projecting nutsert bolts and held it on with a nuts. I wanted to distribute the pressure over a larger area. It wasn't time consuming to put that channel on, but not the most fun thing to do crawling on the ground. I like your idea of permanently mounting it. Another thing to add to the list.

Walt- I would like to see pics of your install when you have a chance

PanJH,
First off, in my pictures in the beginning of this thread, you'll see the actual "T" that I installed in the brake application line between the Wabco ABS valve and, the Parking brake relay valve. That line, is a 1/2" plastic line that is held in place, at both ends, by "push to release" fittings. Like many of the air lines on this type of chassis, push-to-release fittings are used extensively.

After the phone conversation with M & G customer service, it was determined that, that particular line is the one I could tie into. So, even with the air system completely full, I could push on the collars that held that line in place and, remove that 1' long piece of air line. I then cut it in the middle, placed MY tee in it, then replaced that line back onto the coach. Then, I connected the 1/4" line to that center section of the Tee then ran the supplied 1/4" line along the frame, out of harms way, all the way to the rear of the coach. I wire-tied it all along, to make sure it was secured and, etch-free.

I made a small bracket for the quick-release fitting at the rear, next to the license plate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by moisheh

Scott: As I would expect from you an excellent write up! To the poster that tied into his hydraulic brake lines: I may be wrong but I don't think that is a recommended practice anymore.

moisheh,
I surely appreciate the nice comment. I get a bit long winded at times but, It's my way of assuring that if I'm trying to paint a detailed picture so there's no confusion or, at least LESS confusion.
Scott

walt2137 · 09-12-2015, 05:26 PM

This is my connection to my toad air brakes, no lines cut.

BrewE2 · 03-23-2017, 03:36 PM

Just found this thread and I'm expecting delivery of my M&G system with a break-away system in a couple days. I'll be installing it myself.

I've been told that my coach has a "service port" that I'll be able to remove a plug from and attach the airline.

Has anyone seen such a port? Or can anyone provide some guidance where it might be located?

TIA

walt2137 · 03-23-2017, 05:33 PM

Brew the brake acuater for rhe rear brake is in my picture above and I came off the pasenger side because it was easier to run the 1/4 plastic line. just follow the line to the breaks and to make sure loosen the line up at the acuater and have someone to mash the brakes if air comes out install the 1/4 air line there.

rver98 · 03-23-2017, 10:25 PM

I contacted M & G and they told me on a 2013 F150 I would have to install a Cold Air Intake, cause the stock air box would hit. Did you have to modify the Air box?

Dale70 · 03-24-2017, 05:59 AM

I found the "service port" on the air brake system on my Spartan Chassis so also did not cut/modify any air lines.

While the fit was tight on my 2004 Explorer --- 4.6V8 -- I was able to fit the extended master cylinder, although it takes it close to the battery.

Dependent upon your vehicle I could see where some other components might be in the way since you move the actual brake master cylinder forward in the engine compartment roughly five inches.

thx Dale

PanJH · 03-24-2017, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rver98

I contacted M & G and they told me on a 2013 F150 I would have to install a Cold Air Intake, cause the stock air box would hit. Did you have to modify the Air box?

Yes- on my 2015, I had to remove the stock airbox and filter and install the one M&G sent. I forgot the brand, but it's like a K&N conical filter.
Here's a pic of it installed

walt2137 · 03-24-2017, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rver98

I contacted M & G and they told me on a 2013 F150 I would have to install a Cold Air Intake, cause the stock air box would hit. Did you have to modify the Air box?

Well that is one way but I went another, I cut the coolant revisor off the air box and attached it to the firewall, they will send you the kit for this with your order. I did modify the bracket from the revisor to the M&G , I'll attach pictures 1st picture is where I attached to the firewall, 2nd is the bracket and where I extended it, 3rd is to show there is plenty of room for the brake using this set up. If I ever decide to trade the truck I will pick up a OEM revisor and air box at a junk yard.

rver98 · 03-24-2017, 05:36 PM

Thanks guys for the update!

rlott2k · 03-24-2017, 10:05 PM

I'm confused.. Under what conditions would you want to brake and NOT have toad brake lights come on?

John Boy · 03-25-2017, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlott2k

I'm confused.. Under what conditions would you want to brake and NOT have toad brake lights come on?

Excellent question!

BrewE2 · 03-25-2017, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlott2k

I'm confused.. Under what conditions would you want to brake and NOT have toad brake lights come on?

I think the concern isn't the brake lights as much as it is the linkage of the brake lights in the motorhome and their impact on applying the TOAD brakes.

The scenario would be, that the Jake Brake is active on the motorhome, when the Jake brake is active on the motorhome it causes the motorhome brake lights to light. If the installed auxiliary braking system utilizes that signal to apply the TOAD brakes, the TOAD brakes can possibly overheat or become heavy glazed. For example, when descending a long downhill grade. between the Jake Brake and the application of the service brakes, the TOAD brakes would never be fully released.

Just my guess...