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Old 09-11-2013, 01:52 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Roll View Post
The process of setting up the Jeep to tow is a bit odd to me as you tug it behind with the shifter in park but the transfer case in neutral. Be sure to read the directions in the owner manual of the Jeep so you set it up correctly. You do not need to leave the key in the Jeep, the wheel does not lock. I do disconnect the battery but some folks do not.
Why do you disconnect the battery? That's needed on some toads if the key is left in the ignition (or pull a fuse). But I don't understand why you would go to the trouble when the toad is "parked" just like if it was sitting in your driveway. Except of course for the transfer case being in neutral.

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Old 09-11-2013, 02:12 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by vsheetz View Post
As said, you just need to ensure the weight limits are met and you are good to go. I tow my ~5000 lb. jeep most all the time. Blue OX tow bar, brackets on a aftermarket bumper, and a brake buddy, etc.
That's what I do too, except I use the BlueOx Partiot braking system. In fact, I'm the guy that convinced BlueOx to make special after-market clips to connect to the 1" hole/1"width clips that bumpers like mine.

Here's a picture of my rig. I hadn't attached my emergency cables or cut-switch yet in this picture, but you can see that I had to use a 10" riser to keep the tow bar level. That's an important element to consider too. You generally want to keep the tow bar level (within a couple of inches) so that in the event of an abrupt stop, the toad doesn't jump up over the tow bar, or dive under it, depending on whether or not it's much lower or much higher than the hitch on the RV.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:14 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
Why do you disconnect the battery? That's needed on some toads if the key is left in the ignition (or pull a fuse). But I don't understand why you would go to the trouble when the toad is "parked" just like if it was sitting in your driveway. Except of course for the transfer case being in neutral.
Old habits die hard. I use the Jeeps rear lights. It's a simple twist of a knob on top of the battery. Those would be the primary reasons I guess.

I don't have a good reason and probably don't have to disconnect. I do use a Patriot Brake in the Jeep which needs a 12v power supply but I get power from the coach through the umbilical cord for the brake device.

I did have to install diodes in the jeep wiring to prevent back flow from the brake and turn signals coming from the coach.

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Old 09-12-2013, 07:10 AM   #18
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Your hitch is rated for 5000#, but what is you RV rated for by the manufacture. GCWR minus loaded RV equals Max dinghy weight, or 5000#, which ever is lower.

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Old 09-19-2013, 02:38 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by KCLaw View Post
The curb weight of the jeep is 4269lbs and gross weight 4,990lbs. The hitch is class 3 5000lbs max gross weight. We also have a brake buddy.
By the time your coach is loaded for a trip, you"ll find the towing capacity is likely reduced, making the Jeep to heavy to safely tow.
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:04 AM   #20
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Going over the GCWR

Hello, I have the 2014 Via 25Q. Fully loaded with water, fuel and 2 adults, my GVWR is 10,970 lbs. This leaves me with 4,280lbs for my tow, a 2008 Rubicon. If my math is correct, I am over 460 lbs or 3% of my GCWR which is 15,250 lbs.

My question is this: Do you go over your GCWR and if so by how much? I have heard that 10% is acceptable but have no experience doing that. Thanks, Alan

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