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Old 08-31-2013, 06:09 PM   #1
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Is it safe to tow a Jeep Unlimited (4door) behind a new Itasca Cambria 31

We recently got a new Itasca Cambria 31 ft. motorhome (Ford V10) and was wondering if it is safe to tow a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 4 door with hard top. It has a class 3 hitch.
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:23 PM   #2
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A couple of questions. Is the Jeep four wheel drive? What does it weigh? What is the weight of the coach loaded? What is the hitch on the coach rated for? Do not exceed the GCWR.
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCLaw View Post
We recently got a new Itasca Cambria 31 ft. motorhome (Ford V10) and was wondering if it is safe to tow a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 4 door with hard top. It has a class 3 hitch.
Hi and welcome to the forum.

Yeah, there's a few questions you need to answer that are listed above.

Check the CGVWR of the Cambria. You might then want to get it weighed fully loaded for travel with full tanks, gear, etc. Then you need to find out how much the toad weighs and how much the hitch on the Cambria is rated for. At that point, the question is answered.

Best of luck.

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Old 08-31-2013, 06:32 PM   #4
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The curb weight of the jeep is 4269lbs and gross weight 4,990lbs. The hitch is class 3 5000lbs max gross weight. We also have a brake buddy.
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:13 PM   #5
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As said, you just need to ensure the weight limits are met and you are good to go. I tow my ~5000 lb. jeep most all the time. Blue OX tow bar, brackets on a aftermarket bumper, and a brake buddy, etc.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:05 PM   #6
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I just towed my JKU 3300 miles from Arizona to Canada and back with my 1990 28 foot Winebego Superchief. No problem.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:30 PM   #7
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jeeps are excellent toads...

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Old 09-05-2013, 08:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCLaw View Post
The curb weight of the jeep is 4269lbs and gross weight 4,990lbs. The hitch is class 3 5000lbs max gross weight. We also have a brake buddy.
That curb weight sounds a little light. Perhaps for a low optioned base model two wheel drive, but a more commonly equipped 4X4, with a hard top, I'd guess will be closer to 4500 lbs, up to 4700. They give you the "base" curb weight on the Jeep website. That does not include, as example, the hardtop. That has to add 100 lbs, at least. Any other options on the window sticker add weight too.

As others have already said, you'll need to find out the actual weight of the motorhome when loaded for traveling and the gross combined weight rating. If the difference between the two is greater than the weight of the Jeep, you'll be good.
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
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The curb weight of the jeep is 4269lbs and gross weight 4,990lbs. The hitch is class 3 5000lbs max gross weight. We also have a brake buddy.
The most important question for towability, which you have not answered, is what transmission you have in the Jeep. 4WD or RWD? 4WD is towable, RWD is not.
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Old 09-11-2013, 06:07 AM   #10
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I notice your brake cable has a lot of slack in it. Does that setup engage the jeeps brakes? I have the Ready brute with much less slack and I'm wondering if I should tighten it up even more?
Appreciate your thoughts. Difficult to watch the brake pedal in the jeep while driving the motorhome. Haven't been able to talk my wife into riding in the jeep for a few miles!

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jeeps are excellent toads...
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:49 AM   #11
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We tow a 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited flat; auto/4 wheel. Book says 4100 pounds curb weight. Our coach is on a 2011 Ford chassis (22000 lb) with the Trition V-10. I avoid a full tank of gas in the Jeep and don't use it for additional storage since it's weight is close to the max for my hitch.

No problems so far other than I noticed recently that my BlueOx hitch was getting a bit loose at the pivot points but I was able to tighten it up without a problem.

I had to add a 4 inch drop receiver to keep the tow bar level. Also added devices from BlueOx to secure the drop down receiver where the tongue and receiver were otherwise naturally loose and bumped around a bit.

The process of setting up the Jeep to tow is a bit odd to me as you tug it behind with the shifter in park but the transfer case in neutral. Be sure to read the directions in the owner manual of the Jeep so you set it up correctly. You do not need to leave the key in the Jeep, the wheel does not lock. I do disconnect the battery but some folks do not.

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Old 09-11-2013, 11:43 AM   #12
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Some of the earlier JK's have locking steering wheels. My 2008 locks in off position. Make sure to check yours. I think in late 2008 they went back to not locking the the steering wheel.
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:35 PM   #13
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I notice your brake cable has a lot of slack in it. Does that setup engage the jeeps brakes? I have the Ready brute with much less slack and I'm wondering if I should tighten it up even more?
Appreciate your thoughts. Difficult to watch the brake pedal in the jeep while driving the motorhome. Haven't been able to talk my wife into riding in the jeep for a few miles!
yes, the slack on the cable still engages the Jeeps brakes. This was my 3rd adjustment to this length and I am very happy with its performance. Here are my thoughts:

My first instinct was to tighten the cable as well so that everytime the surge brake activates, the toad brakes is activated. But, I didnt like the toad brakes activating going down hill or coasting. Now, I have it adjusted that my toad brakes activates only when I use my brakes on the MH.

I installed a 2 light monitor on my MH dash, one for the surge brake and one for the jeep brake pedal. I cant see how you can have a setup you would want without these indication lights. I look at these 2 lights all the time on all sorts of road, traffic and sudden safety driving conditions and situations and this is how the length of the cable turned out to be. If I were to install one light, I believe monitoring the toad brakes is more important than monitoring the surge brakes.

Another thing to consider is turning. On tight turns, the cable will rub against the guide and can pull on the brakes without the surge being activated. There was a post here recently about the cable having wear by the guide posts.... this is due to tight turns and can cause failure to the cable. At the length of the cablle you see in my pic... on tight turns, the cable touches the guide, but does not pull on the brakes... I can live with that and hasnt damage or cause wear on the sheath on the cable.

Sorry for the long post and to the OP, I hope I have not hi-jacked the thread as it were not my intention.
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:50 PM   #14
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We decided against one of the long-body/short wheelbase Class C's because I was concerned about the tail swing's large sideways movement on turns. I was concerned about high side loads on the extended section of the frame caused by side-slip on the toad's tires.

The other issue was overloading the rear axle. One rig we looked at was so extreme, I got the owner's manual out and was surprised to see a recommendation not to drive it with anything in the holding tanks.

It's over three years ago and we looked at so many rigs, I can't remember the brand. I did see a post, either on here or rv.net, about a normal load within GCWR actually exceeded the rear axle limit by about 10%.

Has anyone with one of these rigs had any problems or was I whistling in the dark?
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