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Old 04-08-2016, 08:41 PM   #1
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Jeep CJ7 toad brake

Hello all,

I'm having a rough time picking out a brake system for my jeep, it's all non stock, lifted on 35's. Been leaning towards the M&G air system, way simple for me to install, In fact all systems are simple to install in the jeep, AF1, brake buddy, ect...

Towing behind a 1998 Monaco Dynasty 38'

Looking for suggestions and experience with the type of toad

Thank you all
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:52 PM   #2
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When I bought my 2002 Windsor it was set up with air hookup for a Brakemaster system so that's what I use. It was easy to install in my Jeep GC. It's easy to put in and out and does a good job.
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Old 04-08-2016, 11:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Hello all,

I'm having a rough time picking out a brake system for my jeep, it's all non stock, lifted on 35's. Been leaning towards the M&G air system, way simple for me to install, In fact all systems are simple to install in the jeep, AF1, brake buddy, ect...

Towing behind a 1998 Monaco Dynasty 38'

Looking for suggestions and experience with the type of toad

Thank you all
tufamc,
Well Sir, nice looking CJ, had three of them. Since you're piloting a diesel coach, I'd steer you towards the M & G in a heartbeat. The primary reasons are these:

1. And this one to me, is the most important. THERE IS NOTHING ON THE INSIDE OF YOUR JEEP!! No robots, no air cylinders, no mechanism(s) pushing on your brake pedal at all. There is NOTHING to hook up and disconnect, each and every time you prep for a trip or, are done traveling for a day.

2. The main mechanism is out of sight, under the hood, and (as you may well know), is located between the master cylinder and the power brake booster. (that is, IF, you have power brakes on your CJ). Once installed, it's there forever and, no adjustments are needed)

3. Due to the fact that it operates the piston in the master cylinder by it's own diaphram, your brake pedal is not pushed and, that means your brake lights are not activated like they would be, if you had any brake mechanism INSIDE your jeep. To some, that's not important but, to others, like myself who, utilizes the stock tail lights as toad lights, you'll get no interference from the Jeeps brake light system.

4. Installing the component into the Jeep took me about 1-2 hours and, that's it. The part that was had to be installed in the coach, about an hour, tops.

5. All you see when hooked up to your coach is, one, 1/4" currly que air line.

So, if you decide on the M & G, and would like some help, let me know, be glad to assist.





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Old 04-10-2016, 08:26 AM   #4
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Thanks for the responses, I do believe the M&G is the way to go for my Jeep.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:51 PM   #5
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As long as you don't have a full cage anyone should work. Just be sure you have the Dana 20 transfer case . The Dana 300 used from 1980 thru the end of the cj7 need internal modifications or the rear bearing will seize up and lock the wheels. That's personal experience talking.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:03 PM   #6
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Have used the RoadMaster BrakeMaster 9160 unit on two MH's and two toweds ('97 Jeep GC and now the Odyssey). Fully proportional and quick, easy install after the initial install. Plus it's easily portable between two toweds or even MH's one the initial install is taken care of.
A lot of toweds can't use the M&G due to it's size. sure wouldn't have fit either of our two!
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:53 AM   #7
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Jeepfreak, excellent advise on the full cage. I never thought about the size of yh systems that sit in the floor, can't fit in my case, as my front seat does not move. t-case is a NP205, and I intend on pulling the rear shaft completely out, then when first arriving at site, locking hubs and moving the jeep in "front" wheel drive, until I put the rear shaft back in. I have a opportunity to buy a 2 year old brakemaster 9400, but now I realize it simply won't fit, with the full cage. M&G shouldn't be a problem, the brake master cylinder is a Chevy piece, and there website says the model 300 should be a fit


Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2016, 02:30 PM   #8
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That's a clean CJ!! very nice

FWIW, My vote would be SMI AF1..There is no question of fitment because it's completely universal. If you change toads, it can be easily swapped and is much easier to install, IMO.

Happy trails!
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:13 PM   #9
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I use ready brake in my wrangler. Seems to work well.
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak View Post
As long as you don't have a full cage anyone should work. Just be sure you have the Dana 20 transfer case . The Dana 300 used from 1980 thru the end of the cj7 need internal modifications or the rear bearing will seize up and lock the wheels. That's personal experience talking.
I have over 30,000 miles or more towing on my dana300 on my 83 cj7 with no problems. Many in the Jeep club have the same or more. Put it in high gear,transfer case in neutral, and lock the front hubs.

Dont know why you had a problem....
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:57 PM   #11
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Well, I had a change of heart, now I'm going with the Roadmaster 9160, more or less the same function as the m&g, plus I can easily move it to one of my other vehicles. My jeep has a all Chevy drivetrain, 383/th350/np205, wagoner dana44 with 4:88, rear is a Chevy dana60/wagoneer dana44 hybrid I built, it use to roll on f/r dana60's w/5:38's and 42" iroks, but now in married with kids, so 35" bfg's are in style know
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:48 AM   #12
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Ahhh the married with kids always throws a wrench into things! What where we thinking!!! Lol
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:42 AM   #13
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That's interesting about locking the front hubs with a Dana 300 . Never heard that before. But in my case I have Detroit lockers in both axles so it could be quite hard to steer as both front wheels turn at the same speed. Maybe lock just one hub. But really makes no difference for me as I took the transfer case apart and made the mods years ago.
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:20 PM   #14
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Yeah,
We and many others towed our C-J7s with the 300 transfer case many, many miles from San Diego to Moab each year for the Easter Jeep Safari held every year. We knew about the potential issues of the output bearing on them so, since many of us had small, class C motor homes at the time, we'd have to stop for fuel quite often. When we stopped, and while fueling the motor homes, w'ed fire up the Jeeps and run them for a few minutes. That would "splash" oil around, inside that 300 transfer case and cover all the bearings and shafts.

Then, down the road we went. The next stop, routine, do it all again. We did that routine for a couple of years. Then we THOUGHT we got smart. We all installed Warn locking hubs, in the rear axles. So, that way, we could just unlock the hubs and, no axles would turn which meant, no drive shafts turning and, no burning up of any bearings in the 300 transfer cases.

Well, that idea proved to SUCK BIG TIME! Those Warn or, any other brand locking hub is not designed to be driven on the street with torque being applied 24/7 to it, pavement, speed bumps, turning in parking lots and all that. Almost all of us grenaded those, more than once. So, that idea bit the dust. Back to firing up the Jeeps at the fuel stops.

Then, we really got smart, we SOLD THE CJs for TJ's, and, with that, came the model 231 with a built in oil pump so, no more starting of the Jeeps at fuel stops. The Rubis have the 242OR Rocktrac T/C which also has the built in oil pump so, all of those worries have been over for decades.
Scott
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