Community Forums

Bryan H · 06-18-2012, 09:03 AM

The base plate has been discussed quite a bit the past few days. I finally had the chance to install mine yesterday. Overall, mildly easy installation. If you have a pre-2011, the install would be incredibly easy (12 bolts and a little drilling and you're done). 2011 and 2012 models will require slight trimming (1/4") of the bottom of the sub frame where the end pieces hang below the main part of the sub-frame, thus not allowing the base plate to seat flush. 5 minutes with a 4" grinder and cut off wheel followed by a quick coat of paint and the modification is over. The only other issue with 2011 and 2012 models is that apparently the front sub frame is slightly narrower than previous years, so the outer two holes on the base plate (one on each side) are out past the sub-frame. I ended up drilling two new holes through the base plate (about 4 inches in-board on both sides) in order to use all the supplied bolts.

Overall, the plate looks very nice, is low profile, and probably wouldn't even be noticed by the average person. I had previously installed a winch on the inside of my stock bumper, and the base plate does a great job of replacing the useless plastic air dam that is bolted on from the factory.

I have several pics I can send to anyone who is willing to load them up on this thread.....I can't access picture hosting websites do to a security firewall.

Bryan

Bryan H · 06-18-2012, 12:31 PM

Here's a few small pics. The front view is self explanatory. The other two photos show the 2011/2012 issue. In the picture showing the view from underneath, I added the two outermost bolts b/c the outer bolt holes (visible in the photo) extend beyond the 2011/2012 sub-frame. The 3rd picture is looking through the fenderwell and you can see how the base plate is slightly wider than the sub-frame.

JMonroe · 06-18-2012, 02:01 PM

You've got a winch tucked in there? What brand/model, and how was the installation?

Bryan H · 06-18-2012, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMonroe

You've got a winch tucked in there? What brand/model, and how was the installation?

Jay - yes, I have a 8k winch installed. I used a Badlands (Harbor Freight) 8k unit, but you could use a better brand, i.e. Warn, if preferred. You do have to relocate the solenoid box elsewhere (I put mine under the hood). Basically, you mount the winch upside down using a universal winch plate bolted to the top of the frame rails. You have to do a little trimming and drilling, but nothing terrible. It took me a good day to do the winch install and another 1/2 day or so doing the electrical (yes, I'm slow). Here's a few pictures of the process in case you're interested. Search of the jeep forums, such as jk-forum.com, and you'll find a lot of good examples of similar installs.

JMonroe · 06-18-2012, 05:26 PM

I like it. Very understated yet there and functional should you need it. And the controls? I'm guessing the Harbor Freight unit isn't remote control.

I'll have to add that to my wish list. For now, I'm trying to get 4.10 gears and E-lockers installed to replace some of the flexibility my recently totaled Rubicon had out of the box. Couldn't find another Rubicon on such short notice, unless I wanted to pay over $40k for a "Call to Duty" version.

Bryan H · 06-18-2012, 05:38 PM

Sorry to hear about the Rubi. Your gear and locker plan will net you back much of the rubi's capability. Depending upon your preferences, I would suggest considering something even higher than the 4.10s if you're going to spend the money. Of course tire size, auto or manual, etc all play a role in that decision.

Re: the badlands winch, the controller plugs into the relay box that I relocated under the hood. See pic below.

JMonroe · 06-19-2012, 08:29 AM

Very cool Bryan.

We're just not hard core enough to justify the taller gears. If I ever replace the tires it would most likely be to no more than something 33" tall, at most. Again, we aren't off road enough to justify the cost of any significant lift. Of course it wouldn't be the first time that I'd later say, "if only".

I've already looked to see if the tires that come standard on the Rubicon are available to fit the 18" wheel that come on the Sahara - they are not. They come in the one size only. I really liked those tires. The Jeep had almost 80k miles on it, plus another 25k or more as a toad, and it still had three of the original tires on it. They were very versatile and wore like iron.

Bryan H · 06-19-2012, 09:16 AM

Jay, I don't have any personal experience, but I see a lot of Jeeps running the GY Duratrac as an alternative to the Rubi MTR's. It looks like they're available in 32x8 (275/65/18):

Ratings, reviews and specifications for Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tires

Jeeps, much like RVs, are a dangerous hobby. One project leads to another, which leads to another....you get the picture.

Just curious, what year is your JKU? I have a 2011, and I'm very envious of those who were smart enough to wait until 2012 and get the improved 3.6L.

JMonroe · 06-19-2012, 07:41 PM

The one that got wrecked was an '07, and I really had no complaints. In five years and 80k miles I had only one minor warranty claim (a dome light door switch went bad). The new one is a 2012.

I have an appointment next Wednesday to have the gearing change and lockers installed. I know all too well how those projects can get away from you. We were very active in a 4X4 club back in the late 70s, early 80s. I 'built' a couple Jeeps in those years, the most extensive rebuild being a ground up restore on a '46 CJ2A. It ended up with a Buick V6, new body tub, suspension, interior, the works. There wasn't a nut or a bolt that wasn't touched, refurbished or replaced. Shortly after I finished it I got into flying and the Willys got sold to finance the flying. There's no such thing as a cheap hobby. Fun is either expensive, or illegal.

Bryan H · 06-20-2012, 09:14 AM

Great photo! Love the flattie.

I'm sure with the locker and gearing, your new jeep will be a great offroader. The '12s are supposed to be so much better with the new engine and tranny (if you got the auto). I love everything about my '11 except for those two items, which are unfortunately very important items. ; (

MntDriver · 06-23-2012, 01:23 AM

Great! thanks for the pics! I just received my Currie Baseplate today, and plan to install it on my 2012 JKR within the next few weeks. I'm not looking forward to trimming any metal, but it looks like I will have to. Can I buy a grinding wheel for my drill to cut the metal??

Bryan H · 06-23-2012, 01:30 AM

Hmm, don't know that a drill would do it. 4" grinders can be purchased for less than $40. I suppose u could try a drill with some sort of cutoff wheel in the chuck, but if not, the grinder isn't too expensive.

Good luck. Let us know if you have any questions.

FYI, I just ran the Cool Tech wiring through the frame. It's looking like a good setup if you decide to go that route.

MntDriver · 06-23-2012, 11:52 AM

Thanks so much for the response Bryan. Yes. I have the Cooltech wiring harness awaiting my install.

I will look into buying a grinder as I can definately see the portion where I need to grind down on the crossmember.

Hmmmmm. Now to figure out where I need to install the plug on the front of my new jeep.

I'll report back next month when I can have some time for this install.

Bryan H · 06-23-2012, 06:15 PM

After looking, I think I'll end up installing the cool tech plug in the drivers side of the currie base plate. MntDriver, I'll post some pics when I'm done.

Next order of bizness will be the ready brute cable install. I 'think' I'll bring it through the center of the Currie base plate.