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Old 05-10-2008, 08:06 AM   #197
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I put the Cooltech harness on my 2008 Wrangler. The right side is working just fine. The left side, I don't have turn signal or brake lights. Anyone have this problem? Thanks!
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:09 AM   #198
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The splice is fine, I know that gives me the right side turn signal and brake lights. Yes, I tested the setup at the front of the jeep. I bought a connector that had pigtails already attached to the pins. I tested the connections back to the connector also. If I turn on the turn signal on the jeep, it shows 12 volts at the connector. I also checked the cable between the tow vehicle and the jeep.
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:30 PM   #199
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You are forgeting the other item you need to make the cooltech work. I had been trying to save time by using my new Tahoe as the "tow vehicle" side of the equation. When I finally tested the tow vehicle side, I found the new Tahoe connector was not wired correctly. I moved vehicles around and got the jeep behind the motorhome and voila, it worked just fine. Who would have thought.

Rick and Bill, thanks for all of the help!
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:09 PM   #200
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Latest update on my setup with US GEAR UTB 1000 and the Cool Tech hareness..

Got thereplacement unit for the jeep from US Gear this week and had a chance to put it in this morning... Before cutting back into the brake light switch hot wire I tested the unit per US Gear instructions on the it operated as expected..

With the coach brake on.. the grey and white wires were indeed "open"

So I wired the unit in and went to the coach for the final test..

Coach brake on.. brakes light working on jeep
Coach brake on.. turn signals work on jeep working fine
With the control unit in the coach activating the jeep brakes manually.. The turn signals hang.

This is what I would have expected as it is the coach brake activation that signals the unit in the jeep to "open" the hot wire to the brake light switch..

Plus.. If the jeep happens to break loose, the break away switch applies full brakes on the jeep and apply the brakes lights also.

The next test will be this coming weekend when we'll be driving 5 hours to Grand Junction.. With the charge wire coming from the coach, I should not have a problem with the jeep battery running down.. If this is successful, I'll have a truly plug and tow setup without having to pull any fuses..

I'll update the thread next week after our trip.

Thanks to
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Old 05-13-2008, 02:53 PM   #201
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I installed the cooltech harness on my 08 Sahara which also has the factory installed tow hitch. I DID NOT use the yellow jumper wire in my installation and everything worked fine. I did notice the instructions said if towing a trailer with the Jeep that I would have to reconnect the factory wiring (in the left rear light) while towing if I did not want to use the jumper.
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Old 05-13-2008, 06:44 PM   #202
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I need some help please!
I installed my cool tech wiring harness in 2008 Jeep JK 4D with factory tow harness (followed the instructions for the factory tow variance) No problem!
The problem exist that my Jayco Seneca motor home has a round seven pin socket and when utilizing an adapter to make the connection to the supplied flat 4 pin cool tech harness the jeep is not responding properly. When checking my lights on the jeep everything works until I turn on the headlights on the motor home. No headlights on and I have turning and brake lights. Turn on the motor home running lights and the jeep running lights come on, but I no longer have brake or turn lights. The motor home utilizes separate light bulbs for turn and brake lights but the jeep a single bulb, is that my problem? How do I cure the issue?
Thank you in advance.
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Old 05-14-2008, 06:39 PM   #203
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Quote:
If you have this type of wiring a converter is required when you hook up trailer wiring/ toad wiring from what I have been told
Can anyone help with what type of adapter BillAff is referencing? All of my wireing checks out and my problem continues, I can only tow my jeep in the daytime without headlights on.
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:56 PM   #204
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Hi Scott,

Almost any kind or trailer you will find - be it a utility trailer, horse trailer, car transporter, boat, motorcycle, etc. all have the same wiring for the lights. On all of these kinds of trailers, there is a unique wire (typically brown) for the running lights. This gives the trailer power to run standard taillights and clearance lights when the tow vehicles' running lights are on. So far, so good.

These trailers almost ALWAYS combine the function of the brake light and turn signal. In other words, the same (bright) bulb is used for both braking and turn signal. As such, your typical trailer lighting is comprised of only 4 wires. Ground, Running Lights, Left, and Right.

You need to test the pin-out of your MH's trailer plug and find the pin that is "hot" with the brake lights on. (You should find more than one, I hope.) Next, you need to let off of the brake light and turn the left turn signal on. Now you need to find the wire in the plug that "pulses" positive with the turn signal. Hopefully, this is one of the wires that also came on with your brake light. If so, you're in good shape and you need to repeat to find the right-side wire. If the wires for turn-signal and brake are truly independent, then you need to get a converter box. These are available at RV stores like Camping world or auto parts stores like Kragen or Autozone.

I hope this helps.
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Old 05-15-2008, 04:29 AM   #205
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Quote:
Originally posted by scott9413:
When checking my lights on the jeep everything works until I turn on the headlights on the motor home. No headlights on and I have turning and brake lights. Turn on the motor home running lights and the jeep running lights come on, but I no longer have brake or turn lights. The motor home utilizes separate light bulbs for turn and brake lights but the jeep a single bulb, is that my problem? How do I cure the issue?
Thank you in advance.
Double check your wire connections using a test light. First check the MH end. Turn on each light one at a time, find the spot that lights up your test light. Then check the jeep end. With each light turned on you should light up your test light in the same position on the connector as the MH end. After my first connection I also had a problem with the lights and found two wires crossed. If you have the ground wire and running ligts wire crossed, when you turn on the running lights you will be taking the ground away from the other lights.
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Old 05-17-2008, 07:43 PM   #206
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Got to "test" the Wrangler TOAD setup and SMI brakes today. Was cruising about 40 MPH on a two lane road in Morris County NJ when two deer ran out in front of me. Hit the RV brakes full on, ABS pumping. SMI brakes came on in the Jeep and I could definitely feel the Jeep pulling on the MH. Everything tracked true and straight and I was able to stop without hitting the deer still standing in the road. I am sure that I would not have avoided disaster without a supplemental brake system. The SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo performed flawlessly as did the entire Blue Ox baseplate and tow bar. My heart may have skipped a few beats but the equipment did it's job.
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Old 05-17-2008, 09:49 PM   #207
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Quote:
I am sure that I would not have avoided disaster without a supplemental brake system. The SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo performed flawlessly as did the entire Blue Ox baseplate and tow bar. My heart may have skipped a few beats but the equipment did it's job.
offthewall...I am glad to hear that you survived...along with the deer.

This is just another instance to show just how important a supplemental brake system can be. I have heard nothing but good things about SMI and the M&G systems!
Thanks for sharing....

MM
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Old 05-19-2008, 01:23 PM   #208
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Wow, I wish I had found this thread on towing a jeep 4 months ago. I had a blue ox bracket installed and the installer drilled in the lights. I would have been better off with the harness.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:04 AM   #209
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Hi Bill,

Great forum, thanks!

I looked for some time and didn't see this addresses specifically. I have a 4" lift with 35" tires on my Wrangler. I also have an aftermarket bumper with through bolts exposed, so a total of eight bolts accessible from the front. Is there a tow bar mount available for this configuration?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:50 AM   #210
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FatBuoy,

My Jeep is pretty much the same as yours. 35" tires, 4.5" lift, aftermarket (AEV) bumper.

No OEM tow bracket will work as you are much higher than stock. I would recommend that you have someone fabricate your tow bar attach points. (I made my own to work with my AEV bumper.) Your objective will be to make the tow bar attach points lower than your bumper - but you also need to be aware of the leverage you are adding to the attach points. Anyway, a combination of bringing the attach points down and potentially raising your tow bar attach point at the MH will be your best bet.
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