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Old 02-16-2008, 06:31 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by BillArf:
offthewall, Very clean looking cuts on that plastic shroud! By the looks of that shroud I would guess all else is on the money. Do double check your two security cables to be sure they are not lying over any hoses/lines. Those security cables will saw through lines over a period of time. Again, looking at your cuts on the shroud makes me believe you wouldn't miss much though..

Did you run the Cool Tech, inc. harness through the frame rail or did you wire tie it underneath the Wrangler? I found running through the drivers frame rail quite easily on the '07 and '08 Wrangler installs I have done but I know others did not have the patience to run through the frame rail..

Did your Wrangler have a factory trailer hitch on it. If it did you remembered to do the single wire splice when you did the Cool Tech harness install, right?
Bill,

Thanks. I clamped the plastic shroud to the work bench and used a jigsaw to make the cuts -- after a lot of measuring

I ran the Cool Tech harness through the driver's side frame rail. I entered at a hole right below the taillight and exited at a hole just about at the front of the drivers door. I then routed it up towards the master cylinder along the top edge of the engine compartment (leaving a couple of inches of slack where I will splice in for the SMI brake controller) then down behind the left headlight and down and out to the 6-way connector. It was "just" long enough using that route on the 4 door Wrangler. I do have the factory trailer hitch and did connect the extra yellow wire at the taillight end.

Did a test tow around the block with my QX56 SUV (the RV is still under cover for the winter). The mechanics of the Blue OX baseplate and Aladdin tow bar worked fine. Wiring checks out with the meter, will do a real check with the RV when I get the SMI installed (weather permitting) next week.

BTW, I had a key cut at the local locksmith for $3.75 for use in the ignition when towing. Works great. Keeps the steering wheel unlocked but if a thief tries to start the Wrangler with it, the engine stops after two seconds.

I will double check those permanent safety cables. I used the route recommended in the Blue Ox instructions. Did you see any problem with that with your install?
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Old 02-20-2008, 12:25 PM   #86
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I have received my cool tech harness and will install this weekend.
Question...when you run the wiring down the frame to the front where do you exit the frame? on the side, top or bottom? forward of the catalytic converter?
Appreciate your response!
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Old 02-20-2008, 04:51 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ronnie Bledsoe 2006 Dutchstar 43':
I have received my cool tech harness and will install this weekend.
Question...when you run the wiring down the frame to the front where do you exit the frame? on the side, top or bottom? forward of the catalytic converter?
Appreciate your response!
I exited the frame through an outside hole just about at the front of the driver's side door. I then went straight up along the firewall into the engine compartment next to the brake master cylinder keeping the wire tucked into the outside corner of engine compartment. I then followed the other wires along the outside edge of the engine compartment to the front grill. Then down behind the left headlight and along the frame to the center of the blue ox baseplate.
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:40 AM   #88
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The tow bar bracket is installed, the good news, the bad I had to seek professional assistance. In hindsight I would install myself again, but take more steps than in the instructions and have better tools. I have provided my insight to another forum member who will try the additional steps...if that works we will provide an update.
The cool tech harness is installed and checks out with the meter. Today I'll hook up to the coach and see if is all go.
I ran the conduit down the frame, took longer than expected, but did'nt give up (even when the puppy tried to run away with my hat, flashlight , parts and tools LOL) I ran the wire up into the engine compartment and followed the fog light wiring to an exit point adjacent to the tow bar bracket. The electrical hook up was easy even for a novice (I have the factory rear toe set up)

Thanks to all for info and inputs on this thread
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:17 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ronnie Bledsoe 2006 Dutchstar 43':
The tow bar bracket is installed, the good news, the bad I had to seek professional assistance. In hindsight I would install myself again, but take more steps than in the instructions and have better tools. I have provided my insight to another forum member who will try the additional steps...if that works we will provide an update.
The cool tech harness is installed and checks out with the meter. Today I'll hook up to the coach and see if is all go.
I ran the conduit down the frame, took longer than expected, but did'nt give up (even when the puppy tried to run away with my hat, flashlight , parts and tools LOL) I ran the wire up into the engine compartment and followed the fog light wiring to an exit point adjacent to the tow bar bracket. The electrical hook up was easy even for a novice (I have the factory rear toe set up)

Thanks to all for info and inputs on this thread
Ronnie,

Which baseplate did you install on your Jeep? I'm curious what additional steps you felt were not included in the directions. I found the Blue Ox directions fairly straightforward.
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:33 AM   #90
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offthewall, I bought the 1429-1 Roadmaster Tow Bracket Kit (The 1428-1 in no longer made)
First thing I would have better tools...reamer, grinding bit and sharp (good) drill bit.
I would follow the instructions for removing the rock guard and bumper, but would suggest using something to put the bumper on while removing fog lights and eletrical wiring. I used a wooden box. Next I would fit the bracket in place on the cross member using the supplied bolt and scribe the lower bracket attach holes on the frame, remove the temporary attach and grind/drill/ream lower holes. I would then reattach the bracket to the cross member, insert the 5 inch bolts in the lower bracket/frame holes, then scribe the location for the upper bracket holes on the frame. Remove the bracket and grind/drill/ream those holes. Install the bracket as directed. I would then repeat this process on the passenger side and then follow the bracket installation directions and reinstall of bumper and rock guard.
Apparently there is variance in Jeep frame to frame. For example the Frame on mine dips down where the upper frame hole for the bracket such that you cannot run the bolt thru initiall. I think by doing the lower holes first and then establishing the required metal removal for the upper holes it will be a lot easier install. I have passed these suggestion on to Tom another forum member who will be doing an install on his new Wrangler unlimited.
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Old 02-23-2008, 04:56 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ronnie Bledsoe 2006 Dutchstar 43':
offthewall, I bought the 1429-1 Roadmaster Tow Bracket Kit (The 1428-1 in no longer made)
First thing I would have better tools...reamer, grinding bit and sharp (good) drill bit.
I would follow the instructions for removing the rock guard and bumper, but would suggest using something to put the bumper on while removing fog lights and eletrical wiring. I used a wooden box. Next I would fit the bracket in place on the cross member using the supplied bolt and scribe the lower bracket attach holes on the frame, remove the temporary attach and grind/drill/ream lower holes. I would then reattach the bracket to the cross member, insert the 5 inch bolts in the lower bracket/frame holes, then scribe the location for the upper bracket holes on the frame. Remove the bracket and grind/drill/ream those holes. Install the bracket as directed. I would then repeat this process on the passenger side and then follow the bracket installation directions and reinstall of bumper and rock guard.
Apparently there is variance in Jeep frame to frame. For example the Frame on mine dips down where the upper frame hole for the bracket such that you cannot run the bolt thru initiall. I think by doing the lower holes first and then establishing the required metal removal for the upper holes it will be a lot easier install. I have passed these suggestion on to Tom another forum member who will be doing an install on his new Wrangler unlimited.
Ah, I should have read back a few posts in the thread, you did mention the Roadmaster. The install was just one of the reasons I went with the Blue Ox over the Roadmaster. The Roadmaster instructions looked more complicated with the widening of holes and a lot more nuts, bolts and drilling than the Blue Ox. The other reason I liked the Blue Ox setup is that the baseplate itself has the crossbar strength in it rather than the tow bar. It makes for a cleaner look when setup for towing IMHO. I'm sure they are both equally reliable though. Both companies have good reputations.
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Old 02-23-2008, 05:05 PM   #92
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Bill, The bottom 2 holes did not line up and required slotting down and toward the front of the Jeep. I don't know if this was unique to my frame or not. That's why in retrospect I would have temporarily installed the bracket scribed the hole location on the frame and did the required metal removal...then moved to the upper mount holes and did the same.
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Old 02-24-2008, 08:32 AM   #93
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Bill, I have a roadmaster Sterling All Terrain tow bar. I don't care to mix and match OEM hardware. In the event of an incident I prefer to have one Mfg to deal with. That being said the Blue Ox appears to be a good choice. The Roadmaster has less hardware on the vehicle when not towing.
Also, when I ordered the bracket (not from Roadmaster) it was for the 1428-1 and I called back to verify that was on the order. When I received the 1429-1 I called and was told that Roadmaster no longer provided the 1428-1. It appeared to be a simpler install than the 1429-1.
Roadmaster has been my Tow Bar/Tow Bar Bracket for about 20 years so that experience was a deciding factor.

The Cool Tech Harness is the only way to go and I will forever be grateful for that insight. Kendall says that you are one of his best salespeople by providing information and personal experience.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:51 AM   #94
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WELL! Finally took the motorhome out with the Jeep in tow...everything worked really well, tow bar hook up, attach cables, and harness from motorhome to Jeep. Lights worked as advertised. ALL GOOD NEWS!
Bad news it was raining and I can't believe how much mud and debris sprayed over the front and sides of the Jeep. Probably more noticable because the Jeep is new and shiny LOL
NEXT question for all, what type of Bra or shield are you using to protect the front and windshield? Links to supplier would be appreciated.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:56 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally posted by BillArf:
For those that wish to set up a 2007 or 2008 Jeep Wrangler for flat towing feel free to use me as a resource in regard to setting up your 2007 Wrangler.

For starters, do not entertain the idea of adding the additional bulb to each tail light or using diodes. A simple harness install is all you need on the 2007 Wrangler.

In regard to disconnecting the battery on the Wrangler while flat towing, this is not necessary BUT disengaging the IOD fuse with the built in fuse disconnect JEEP has provided is a good way to prevent battery discharge and a wise move.
First off I just want to say Thanks a bunch for the good info. Wish I would have read all of your posts prior to setting up my 2008 Sahara for the flat tow. I installed the blue ox baseplate to use with the blue ox towbar I already had for the previous 02 Wrangler. Got the Mopar wiring harness and all is well EXCEPT the battery is dead every time I arrive at my destination after an 8 hour or so drive with the key in position 1...

I took it in for some warranty work and mentioned the battery runs dead every time I tow it - the dealership techs said I must have the key in the wrong position (NOT!)they didn't even know about the IOD fuse! Glad I found your sight.
Thanks again.
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Old 03-01-2008, 06:09 AM   #96
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Just wading into TOAD towing. Does everyone have supplemental braking for their TOADS? Taking delivery of an 08 4dr Wrangler today and will be setting it up for towing behind our 40' DP. I've heard conflicting stories about whether or not I need braking in the TOAD. Obviously it's safer to have supplemental braking, but was wondering how many people actually are without it and their experiences... harrowing or not.
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:54 PM   #97
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About your SMI brake system.. It would be really nice if you could take the time and describe here the install. The BX1126 baseplate install and such I have covered quite well but this thread is lacking info on toad braking. I'm sure many an '07 and '08 Wrangler owner has come here and let with a smile because they gained so much needed info. <span class="ev_code_GREEN">I wish a few of them would return and talk about their Wrangler '07, '08 auxiliary braking system.</span>


.
OK, finally got the SMI Stay-N-Play Duo brake system installed in my 2008 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara.

Here are some pictures of the completed install:











The break-away switch was installed into an existing hole on the bumper using a 1/4" nylon bushing to space it down from the bumper so it sat parallel to the ground. The two wires enter through a small hole I drilled in the plastic belly pan.

As you can see from the finished install photo, you would hardly know the system is there and only requires a flip of the toggle switch on the kick panel mounted controller. The controller is simply screwed into the plastic kick panel. As per recommendation from Pete at SMI, you should mount the controller on the kick panel slightly tilted towards the front.

I mounted the cylinder on the brake pedal just high enough on the pedal arm so as to not be in the way of my foot. The firewall on the Jeep is alarmingly thin. Rather than use the sheet metal screw supplied by SMI, I used a stainless steel machine screw and large washer and nut on the other side. One point of improvement SMI could make would be beefing up the clamp on the cylinder. Make sure you position the shaft of the Jeep's brake pedal arm all the way forward in the clamp. It will bend when the brakes are applied if you do the opposite.

Pete suggested the position of the under hood unit and there really is no other place for it. I rotated it to the vertical position rather than the horizontal position he recommended. It fits better that way and position does not matter. It is cable tied to the computer unit using the lower two holes on the SMI unit. All the wires and air hose to the cylinder are easily passed into the Jeep through a large punch out in the firewall to the right of the power brake unit. Remember to seal it up with silicone when done.

The main unit has a captive vacuum hose that needs to be T'd into the Jeep's brake vacuum line which you can see to the left of the power brake unit in the photo. Power is run directly to the battery with an inline fuse holder (the tap in the fuse box I'll cover later). Grounding is critical. The instructions warn of this but I took it lightly and had some initial problems. The system connects to your coach 4-wire lighting ground AND a chassis ground. I figured that the cool tech wiring harness I was using for the lights was grounded "somewhere" and all I had to do was splice into the cool tech harness. Ha! -- Started blowing fuses at first test. I later grounded the system and the cool tech harness to the computer unit that the SMI unit was mounted to with spade connectors. You can see these in the side shot of the under hood install.

SMI provides an indicator light that illuminates when the Jeep's brake pedal is depressed. You tap into the cold side of the brake light switch -- the White and Tan wire. Their solution involves a large amber light that you cable tie to your tow bar and monitor with your backup camera. I'll let you formulate your own opinion of that . Instead I ran the wire to an unused pin on my 6 pin connector at the front of the Jeep. That same pin on the RV's 6 pin connector runs a wire up into the cab of the RV and to an LED I mounted in the dash to the lower right of the driver (see photo).

Now to the big Gotcha. When the SMI unit applies the brakes, the brake pedal in the Jeep is depressed. This turns on the brake lights of the Jeep. Two problems arise from this. One, the Jeep applied brake lights wash out the turn signals coming from the coach and the biggie -- The SMI sees the 12v from the Jeep pedal being pressed and stays on FOREVER. That's right, you step on the brakes once and they never come off! Both of these problems could be avoided by using separate tailight bulbs and not using the Jeep's lighting (sorry Bill ) and is actually what SMI recommends.

There is a solution or two. When I first encountered the problem, I knew exactly what was happening. I had assumed this would happen and even inquired with SMI before purchase what the solution would be. I was incorrectly told that it would not be an issue. I disconnected the brake light switch wire from the Jeep and the problem stopped. The Jeep no longer turned on its brake lights when the pedal was depressed, the SMI did not go into a loop and the turn signals were not washed out. Of course you can't drive around with no brake lights when not towing the Jeep so I first put in a simple toggle switch.

Wanting a slicker solution, I thought about a relay. I'll give you the short version. After many hours of head scratching, sketches and trips to the local auto store, I ended up "designing" an existing product -- the Roadmaster Brake-Lite Relay. It's an automatic switch that connects the brake light switch when power is applied from a circuit that is energized only when the engine is running. Buy the Roadmaster product and install it according to their directions. The photo of the fuse box shows where I tied the power for the relay into. It is an unused circuit labeled Rear Heated Seats. It is off when the Jeep key is in the tow position and on when the Jeep is running. I tied into the cold side of the fuse holder with a fuse tap and installed a 10A fuse.

The install took three days, mostly because I would do something one way then realize a better way and re-do it and the time spent troubleshooting and "designing" the brake light switch relay. Working under the dash in the Jeep is a pain. I mean literally. I have bruises all down my right side. I suggest a well placed pillow on the Jeep door sill -- thought of that only after the first day

I've only tested the system in the driveway at this point. RV is still under a cover and a couple inches of snow. Ready for the spring and the first road test.
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:20 AM   #98
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Here is some information and pictures of the newer Roadmaster #1430 brackets installed on my 2007 Rubicon. These brackets are designed for the JK and either the Mopar front bumper or the Warn front bumper. I believe these are the only brackets that will work with a non-stock front bumper.

The install was pretty simple and took a couple hours. You have to drill two holes for each bracket in the bottom of the bumper. I also had to drill one of the frame holes slightly.





You can also use these brackets with the Mopar front skid plate with some minor trimming.

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