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Old 03-23-2011, 12:13 PM   #15
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Fritz & Fran

I bought a blue ox and smi braking at brazels 2 years ago. They do real good work. Don't remember it costing that much. But my CRS is gettig worse I guess.

Sorry about the bum lead.

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Old 03-23-2011, 12:33 PM   #16
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The OP is asking for help. He is not going to do it himself with a buddy, beer and pizza

It would be kind of the people replying to give the name (& phone number) when you say "see my guys in Timbucktoo or wherever". I had mine installed at a FMCA rally some years ago for $1200.00. (Diesel was $2.19) Last August, in Redmond, it was $1800.00 by a contractor as there was no mechanics from the factory there.

The OP needs a name, or told "Thats about right" for March 2011.

Not intending to insult anybody.....Kerry
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:15 PM   #17
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two niner

I think if you read the OP again you will see the only question asked was "is this to high?"

Your right it could have been answered with a YES or No. I think when members respond to a question by another member they are trying to help the member with the question. Yes or No is an answer don't think it helps answer a question.

I didn't take offence to your comment to all those that replied, it did spark my interest. Are you now or have you ever been a moderator on RVnet??

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Old 03-24-2011, 05:17 AM   #18
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The OP is asking for help. He is not going to do it himself with a buddy, beer and pizza

It would be kind of the people replying to give the name (& phone number) when you say "see my guys in Timbucktoo or wherever". I had mine installed at a FMCA rally some years ago for $1200.00. (Diesel was $2.19) Last August, in Redmond, it was $1800.00 by a contractor as there was no mechanics from the factory there.

The OP needs a name, or told "Thats about right" for March 2011.

Not intending to insult anybody.....Kerry
You missed the point of my post. Mostly anyway. My point was if the OP wanted to save money, which was obviously his point, there were ways to do that. Part of my answer was a DIY install but the other part was look for used equipment and equipment that was far simpler to install would lower cost for both parts and labor.

As for the MKT, so far it tows great. No difference really from the Explorer it replaced as far as towing. Hitching up is a bit easier with the built in towing mode, the EXP required a driveshaft disconnect that worked but was always 'fussy' The wife never could get it re-engaged.
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:28 AM   #19
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Dolly
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:39 AM   #20
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For this first class tow system the indicated cost is about right. Certainly a second hand system might be found for less money but will it do the job and for how long?
I just checked Google for parts prices and the only thing that appeared out of the ball park was the tow bar - it was $758. The US Gear new in a box was just short of $1,000. That leaves $800. for installation and as one who installed his own (25 hours) he ain't gonna get rich, especially if he must run a loom in the coach (mine was prewired).
I'm finding the MH world much like the aviation industry where I've spent the last 50 years. Expensive!
Favorite airmachine saying: If ya gotta worry about "how many miles per gallon", ya can't afford it to begin with.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:05 AM   #21
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Dolly

Jeep 4X4's are not supposed to be towed with two wheels off the ground. It's stated large and clear in the owners manual that this can result in transfer case or driveline damage.

I have done it in years gone by with no ill effects. This however was for short distances. With a new or fairly new vehicle though, I wouldn't go against the instructions in the owners manual.
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:46 PM   #22
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Dolly
Never again
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:50 PM   #23
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For this first class tow system the indicated cost is about right. Certainly a second hand system might be found for less money but will it do the job and for how long?
I just checked Google for parts prices and the only thing that appeared out of the ball park was the tow bar - it was $758. The US Gear new in a box was just short of $1,000. That leaves $800. for installation and as one who installed his own (25 hours) he ain't gonna get rich, especially if he must run a loom in the coach (mine was prewired).
I'm finding the MH world much like the aviation industry where I've spent the last 50 years. Expensive!
Favorite airmachine saying: If ya gotta worry about "how many miles per gallon", ya can't afford it to begin with.
Second hand tow equipment is like second had motorhomes. There is junk and there are true bargains. Both the tow bar and brake buddy that I purchased were less than a year old, perform as new and were near or less than half the new cost. BB has nearly zero install cost, is the US Gear brake worth 4 times the installed cost? (honestly I have never used one so there may be some awe inspiring difference I have not seen) I towed our Explorer for 10 yrs with no brakes and 'got away with it' but knew I should do something better. This time I did.

Nothing wrong with brand new first class set ups. But its not the only option that is 'right' That $3000 difference will buy a lot of $4 gas for this travel season.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:23 PM   #24
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Have you considered a ReadyBrute Elite system? Would be considerably cheaper.
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:48 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the help and advise guys! I love this forum. I had a few parameters i did not want to alter here.... which leaves me with a spendy system to shop.

1) I did not want to have to mess with adjustments or removal of big items in and out of my driver's seat every time i pull
2) I ABSOLUTEY did not want to splice into existing air lines.

3) I wanted 'plug & play' 100%...

...so i did some shopping and it turns out this shop was the 2nd cheapest qoute for my setup so I am going with them! (never trust cheapest qoute)

Thank you for your help!
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:04 PM   #26
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I'm just finishing up my install on a 2011 JGC (not an Overland). My setup is the Roadmaster Sterling and Roadmaster brackets. My braking system is SMI's Air Force One and I bought a Blue Ox Diode wiring kit. AF1 was bought from RV Upgrades and the rest from Hitch Source.

I had Alliance Coach in Wildwood FL install the AF1 components on the coach. It was about 2 hours labor.

I installed everything in the JGC. It was an all day job. If you had done this a few times, my guess is that the tow bracket could be installed in as little as 2 hours, but more likely closer to 3. Wiring the lights, again for someone that has done it on a JCG, could be done in less than 2 hours. The AF1 stuff could be done in 3 hours, although I was quoted 6. So, apply your local labor rates to the above and you should have a good idea of the labor costs.

For anyone wanting to this yourself, it's not too hard. The Roadmaster tow brackets only require a couple of holes to be drilled. Unlike other tow brakets, you do need to support the front suspension because it bolts into the frame. The wiring is all accessible under the glove box. Just remove the tail lights to determine the wire colors (yellow/white for both turn signal/brakes (dumb that they are the same color), orange/white and brown/white for each tail light). If you're installing an AF1 system and don't have the Overland model, you can install the AF1 control box on the passenger side frame rail where the Overland's air compressor is located.

Hope the labor estimates help,
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Old 03-27-2011, 04:06 PM   #27
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Fritz, What did you decide on?
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:24 AM   #28
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Fritz, What did you decide on?
Bruce
Bruce, I am sticking with the Unibrake from U.S. Gear and a Sterling tow bar. Local shop doing work that i can 'haunt' for the rest of my days if .01% goes wrong :P
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