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Old 09-12-2011, 07:43 PM   #1
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locking pin on MH hitch receiver

I guess I was afraid of someone stealing the tow bar from the MH while traveling. Went to remove the drop bar from the hitch, due to new vehicle height. Naturally, the key will not turn..ergo..the drop bar is still attached to the hitch receiver! Have use penetrating oils with no luck. Thinking of heating the locking mechanism too see if I can turn the key. Not alot of room for a hacksaw, which may be the only recourse. Any ideas would be appreciated. Can't believe I'm the only as..... who got in this prediciment!!
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:59 PM   #2
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With mine I spray WD40 in lock, run key in and out a few times, and then turn counter clockwise.

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Old 09-12-2011, 08:11 PM   #3
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Well you may not want to hear this, but anyway, . . When I bought my MH 18 months ago it had a drop ball hitch locked with a Blue Ox locking pin. I had a Blue Ox receiver tow bar and had to get that out. I didn't have a key so I grabbed my big wrecking bar (30" long) put it against the lock on the end of the pin and pulled. I fell on my butt because it came off so easy. I was amazed how easy it was to pop the lock off the end of the pin. Just used a long drift punch and a hammer, well end of story. Took longer to find the crow bar than to get the lock off and the pin out.
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long Island Mac View Post
I guess I was afraid of someone stealing the tow bar from the MH while traveling. Went to remove the drop bar from the hitch, due to new vehicle height. Naturally, the key will not turn..ergo..the drop bar is still attached to the hitch receiver! Have use penetrating oils with no luck. Thinking of heating the locking mechanism too see if I can turn the key. Not alot of room for a hacksaw, which may be the only recourse. Any ideas would be appreciated. Can't believe I'm the only as..... who got in this prediciment!!
if wayne's crowbar method doesn't work, try an air driven cutoff tool with a 3'' metal cutting wheel. use safety glasses. imho it is quicker and easier than a hacksaw.

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Old 09-13-2011, 04:38 AM   #5
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Smack it with a hammer a few times. See if that will loosen things up.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:11 AM   #6
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Long Island Mac, thanks for posting this. I Guess I need to check my lock since we are headed to our daughter's house soon where I will need to remove the tow bar so it doesn't drag when I back the rig up their driveway. I would hate to block the street while I try to remove a stuck lock.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:56 AM   #7
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In the future, if you'd like a little more security you might consider a correctly sized grade 8 bolt and lock nut. Nothing is 100 percent, but that should keep most clowns away...

We were at a boat landing one day, and watched a couple back their empty trailer into the water to retrieve their largish (28'?) sailboat. Everthing went normally, until they went to pull it out. Somebody had pulled the pin from the receiver and the ball mount slid right out under the load. Mental note to myself made that day many years ago that's lasted to this day....
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:56 AM   #8
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A grade 8 bolt may sound like the best choice, but it has less shear strength than a grade 5 bolt. A grade 8 does have more clamping strength though.

Note: It depends on which site you visit. Some say 8 is better. We had grade 8 bolts on our sandrail's rear pivot arms breaking. We went to grade 5 and less breaking.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:21 AM   #9
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Thumbs up locking pin on MH hitch receiver

As is awlays the case, this site has the best information for guys like me!!! Tried the crowbar...then with a 4' pipe helper...then with a sledge hammer on the end of the pipe. SOB did not move. Next was the best. Borrowed a 4" elecctric grinder. Took all of about 4-5 minutes to cut through 90% and a hammer to finish it off. Thanks for all the comments and assistance. Not sure if I will go with security or just the normal pin.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:26 AM   #10
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Go with security. There are a lot of nuts out there...

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Old 09-13-2011, 11:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
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A grade 8 bolt may sound like the best choice, but it has less shear strength than a grade 5 bolt. A grade 8 does have more clamping strength though.
I have been told that too.. IN my main slide I use a quarter inch grade 8 toothpick, and they broke easily.. I tried a Grade 5 and it sheared easier if anything.

I will add: Someone on one of the forums I visit, made a suggestion. (Longer bolt) I took it.. and so far.... .... .... ... ... It's holding.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:49 AM   #12
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Longer bolts put the shear force on the solid, non-threaded portion of the bolt. Also the thread pitch makes a difference. Course bolts have less cross sectional mass where the threads are.

Where can I get those grade 8 tooth picks?
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:53 PM   #13
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Longer bolts put the shear force on the solid, non-threaded portion of the bolt. Also the thread pitch makes a difference. Course bolts have less cross sectional mass where the threads are.

Where can I get those grade 8 tooth picks?
Cut threads vs rolled threads also make a difference. Rolled threads are stronger BTW, although I wouldn't think you'd find cut threads on Grade 5 or 8 bolts.
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:26 AM   #14
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Haven't paid attention to that, but I do know it is harder to cut them on a 5 or 8, either with my lathes or dies.
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