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Old 11-26-2015, 11:12 AM   #1
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Looking for a better 7 pin connector.

I'm tired of the excitement each time I hook up of finding out if my connections work. The typical 7 pin on the MH and 6 pin on the toad are just plain bad. They get dirty and wet, corrode, are hard to clean, and don't provide a positive connection.

I'm looking at the ez connector system http://ezconnector.com/ but before going to the trouble of wiring it in I thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience with it, or an alternative that works better than the normal crappy connectors sold by RV places.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:43 AM   #2
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You can get flat blade (Pollack) 7-pin connectors with self-closing covers, if that's what you want. I have one. I've not had any problems with my Pollacks in over 15 years of use on two coaches, or the 4-pin connectors on the toads either, but maybe you travel where there is more corrosive stuff on the roads.

But to answer your question, I have no experience with the EZ connector system. Not sure why a round pin would be better than blade (I would think the opposite), but maybe it has other features that are an improvement.
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Old 11-26-2015, 01:03 PM   #3
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Paul-

You may want to look at the "RV ProPlug" and the Hopkins Endurance 7-pin sockets. I used them on my coach and toad, respectively. The ProPlug has built-in test points and LEDs.

Mark
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Old 11-26-2015, 01:24 PM   #4
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Make sure your receiver (female) end is pointing down slightly. This helps keep water out and gives drainage. Dielectric grease eliminates corrosion peroid. Proffessional truckers use the round pin instead of the flat connections for a reason, they work better in all bad weather conditions year round.
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Old 11-26-2015, 04:21 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 336muffin View Post
Make sure your receiver (female) end is pointing down slightly. This helps keep water out and gives drainage. Dielectric grease eliminates corrosion peroid. Proffessional truckers use the round pin instead of the flat connections for a reason, they work better in all bad weather conditions year round.
I agree
Use lots of Dielectric Grease.If your hands get greasy connecting,than you have enough. If your hands are clean than you lack grease. Ok I'm kidding but you get the idea. And as previously stated Pollacks are the best.
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Old 11-26-2015, 08:45 PM   #6
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Well OP,
Not sure what kind of conditions you're operating in but, in all the years we've been towing, all kinds of toads, trailers and more, we rarely have any connection issues. All of the 7-pin connectors on the back of all our coaches, trucks etc., have all had spring loaded doors that keep out all of the road grime, dust, debris etc. As long as the door (spring loaded one) has a somewhat good seal, you really shouldn't have any issues.

The pictures shown in that link where they're bent/corroded/mudded are somewhat extreme and I personally have never experienced any of that. If you feel you need to change plugs 'cause you're continuing to connection issues, well then, I guess you got to do what you got to do. Good luck and I hope it works out.
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:05 PM   #7
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Looks to be about $150. Pretty steep.

I haven't had a problem yet...I have a spring loaded cover on the toad and the plug from the coach I cover with a seal a meal bag and tuck inside the towbar cover.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:13 PM   #8
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It is a bit pricey, but the Pro-Plug is $130, and it doesn't mate to a round 6 pin.

Interesting suggestion about pointing the female down, but it is actually the male on the coach that collects all the water and road dirt. We pull over the Rockies and Cascades from Alberta to the coast, or south through Salt Lake most winters and the spray is pervasive. The spring loaded covers don't seem to keep anything out.

I've had numerous problems, some to do with the internal wiring in 7 flat pin (female) to 6 round pin (female) cables (picture attached) that I bought (internal shorts after a couple of years of service that on my last trip home meant that I had the reverse lights on and the reverse warning signal going all the time. I heard it from the front of the coach so I stopped to check otherwise I would not have know since it wasn't doing that when I did the lights check before pulling out.

The Pollack stuff seems a bit more carefully designed. I'll keep thinking about it, but welcome suggestions.
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Old 11-27-2015, 04:56 PM   #9
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Paul,
That's the exact same pig tail we've got and, while as stated, we've not had any pin issues, I have had numerous insulation peeling issues with the Blue Ox junk curly cue pig tail. As of this moment, it's about 1/3 electrical tape wrapped. Seems that blue plastic insulation doesn't have either UV inhibitors or, maybe it's age is showing, not sure. All the wires are still good and, all my signals to the toad are still functioning fine. So, I'll just keep wrapping it 'till the whole cord is electrical tape wrapped.
Scott
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:19 PM   #10
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I bought a spray on product called Strike Hold at the FMCA show in Madison that helps the connectors slide in and out of the sockets easier and that promotes good contact between the pins in the connectors.

I have not had any problem with the OEM socket that Winnebago puts on the end of the Ford F53 chassis wiring harness cable. It has a spring loaded cover to keep the inside of it dry when a cable is not plugged in, which is a must have.

I use the Blue Ox 8 to 6 coiled cable and they don't waterproof the ends, so I take the covers off the ends and waterproof them once I ensure that the connections on the ends are good (screws tight and or solder joints are good). I waterproof them by filling the ends with silicone or blue gasket making goop, depending on what I have handy. Of course, you must make sure the cable is totally good with good connections on both ends before waterproofing!
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:48 PM   #11
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one of the advantages of the pollack is being able to find a replacement at many auto stores or truck part shops .. Replacing might be an issue with a proprietary plug
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience with it, or an alternative that works better than the normal crappy connectors sold by RV places.
With a little bit of Googling, you can find high quality, sealed, military connectors for just a bit more than those you'll find at the RV places.

Amphenol and Airborn are well designed and built connectors.

Tim
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Old 11-28-2015, 12:22 PM   #13
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Yes, the RV ProPlug is expensive... but the built-in test points and LEDs at the rear of the coach saved me time diagnosing problems in Texas and Arizona. (It turned out to be failed converters in the coach both times.) It mounted very well on the bumper of our Class C, further off the road splash zone. The permanent wiring entered from the bottom, rather than the (typical) back, reducing water intrusion into the terminal strip area. The spring door worked as well as could be expected.

I didn't use a "curly" cable between coach and toad. I bought a smooth-jacketed cable with one end female end pre-molded and put a Hopkins Endurance female end on the other end of the cable. Instead of wrapping the wires around the screws I crimped ring terminals on them. Then, as others did, I loaded the screws and housing with dielectric grease, for corrosion protection.

Here's a link to the Hopkins 6-pin Endurance set.

Mark
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:06 PM   #14
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Mark,

How long have you had it? I bought a couple of new ends for now, but I may replace it when I'm in warmer climes.
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