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11-26-2015, 10:12 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,920
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Looking for a better 7 pin connector.
I'm tired of the excitement each time I hook up of finding out if my connections work. The typical 7 pin on the MH and 6 pin on the toad are just plain bad. They get dirty and wet, corrode, are hard to clean, and don't provide a positive connection.
I'm looking at the ez connector system http://ezconnector.com/ but before going to the trouble of wiring it in I thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience with it, or an alternative that works better than the normal crappy connectors sold by RV places.
__________________
Paul
2006 Patriot Thunder C13 Allison 4000
2010 Ford Flex Ecoboost AWD
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11-26-2015, 10:43 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,678
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You can get flat blade (Pollack) 7-pin connectors with self-closing covers, if that's what you want. I have one. I've not had any problems with my Pollacks in over 15 years of use on two coaches, or the 4-pin connectors on the toads either, but maybe you travel where there is more corrosive stuff on the roads.
But to answer your question, I have no experience with the EZ connector system. Not sure why a round pin would be better than blade (I would think the opposite), but maybe it has other features that are an improvement.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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11-26-2015, 12:03 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,964
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Paul-
You may want to look at the " RV ProPlug" and the Hopkins Endurance 7-pin sockets. I used them on my coach and toad, respectively. The ProPlug has built-in test points and LEDs.
Mark
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11-26-2015, 12:24 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,569
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Make sure your receiver (female) end is pointing down slightly. This helps keep water out and gives drainage. Dielectric grease eliminates corrosion peroid. Proffessional truckers use the round pin instead of the flat connections for a reason, they work better in all bad weather conditions year round.
__________________
American Tradition 42R-Cadillac SRX Blue Ox Koni 5050XL MCD Scangauge D Samsung rf197
Fulltime since 2012
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11-26-2015, 03:21 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Triple E Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 336muffin
Make sure your receiver (female) end is pointing down slightly. This helps keep water out and gives drainage. Dielectric grease eliminates corrosion peroid. Proffessional truckers use the round pin instead of the flat connections for a reason, they work better in all bad weather conditions year round.
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I agree
Use lots of Dielectric Grease.If your hands get greasy connecting,than you have enough. If your hands are clean than you lack grease. Ok I'm kidding but you get the idea. And as previously stated Pollacks are the best.
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11-26-2015, 07:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Well OP,
Not sure what kind of conditions you're operating in but, in all the years we've been towing, all kinds of toads, trailers and more, we rarely have any connection issues. All of the 7-pin connectors on the back of all our coaches, trucks etc., have all had spring loaded doors that keep out all of the road grime, dust, debris etc. As long as the door (spring loaded one) has a somewhat good seal, you really shouldn't have any issues.
The pictures shown in that link where they're bent/corroded/mudded are somewhat extreme and I personally have never experienced any of that. If you feel you need to change plugs 'cause you're continuing to connection issues, well then, I guess you got to do what you got to do. Good luck and I hope it works out.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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11-26-2015, 08:05 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 13,138
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Looks to be about $150. Pretty steep.
I haven't had a problem yet...I have a spring loaded cover on the toad and the plug from the coach I cover with a seal a meal bag and tuck inside the towbar cover.
__________________
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
Criticism is easier than Craftsmanship
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11-26-2015, 10:13 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,920
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It is a bit pricey, but the Pro-Plug is $130, and it doesn't mate to a round 6 pin.
Interesting suggestion about pointing the female down, but it is actually the male on the coach that collects all the water and road dirt. We pull over the Rockies and Cascades from Alberta to the coast, or south through Salt Lake most winters and the spray is pervasive. The spring loaded covers don't seem to keep anything out.
I've had numerous problems, some to do with the internal wiring in 7 flat pin (female) to 6 round pin (female) cables (picture attached) that I bought (internal shorts after a couple of years of service that on my last trip home meant that I had the reverse lights on and the reverse warning signal going all the time. I heard it from the front of the coach so I stopped to check otherwise I would not have know since it wasn't doing that when I did the lights check before pulling out.
The Pollack stuff seems a bit more carefully designed. I'll keep thinking about it, but welcome suggestions.
__________________
Paul
2006 Patriot Thunder C13 Allison 4000
2010 Ford Flex Ecoboost AWD
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11-27-2015, 03:56 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Paul,
That's the exact same pig tail we've got and, while as stated, we've not had any pin issues, I have had numerous insulation peeling issues with the Blue Ox junk curly cue pig tail. As of this moment, it's about 1/3 electrical tape wrapped. Seems that blue plastic insulation doesn't have either UV inhibitors or, maybe it's age is showing, not sure. All the wires are still good and, all my signals to the toad are still functioning fine. So, I'll just keep wrapping it 'till the whole cord is electrical tape wrapped.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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11-27-2015, 04:19 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,834
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I bought a spray on product called Strike Hold at the FMCA show in Madison that helps the connectors slide in and out of the sockets easier and that promotes good contact between the pins in the connectors.
I have not had any problem with the OEM socket that Winnebago puts on the end of the Ford F53 chassis wiring harness cable. It has a spring loaded cover to keep the inside of it dry when a cable is not plugged in, which is a must have.
I use the Blue Ox 8 to 6 coiled cable and they don't waterproof the ends, so I take the covers off the ends and waterproof them once I ensure that the connections on the ends are good (screws tight and or solder joints are good). I waterproof them by filling the ends with silicone or blue gasket making goop, depending on what I have handy. Of course, you must make sure the cable is totally good with good connections on both ends before waterproofing!
__________________
Randy - Manhattan, Kansas
2015 Vista 27N
2020 Ford Escape Hybrid
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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11-27-2015, 04:48 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: NY
Posts: 604
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one of the advantages of the pollack is being able to find a replacement at many auto stores or truck part shops .. Replacing might be an issue with a proprietary plug
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08 Diesel Bounder 38V
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11-27-2015, 05:38 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distaff
I thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience with it, or an alternative that works better than the normal crappy connectors sold by RV places.
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With a little bit of Googling, you can find high quality, sealed, military connectors for just a bit more than those you'll find at the RV places.
Amphenol and Airborn are well designed and built connectors.
Tim
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11-28-2015, 11:22 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,964
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Yes, the RV ProPlug is expensive... but the built-in test points and LEDs at the rear of the coach saved me time diagnosing problems in Texas and Arizona. (It turned out to be failed converters in the coach both times.) It mounted very well on the bumper of our Class C, further off the road splash zone. The permanent wiring entered from the bottom, rather than the (typical) back, reducing water intrusion into the terminal strip area. The spring door worked as well as could be expected.
I didn't use a "curly" cable between coach and toad. I bought a smooth-jacketed cable with one end female end pre-molded and put a Hopkins Endurance female end on the other end of the cable. Instead of wrapping the wires around the screws I crimped ring terminals on them. Then, as others did, I loaded the screws and housing with dielectric grease, for corrosion protection.
Here's a link to the Hopkins 6-pin Endurance set.
Mark
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11-28-2015, 05:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,920
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Mark,
How long have you had it? I bought a couple of new ends for now, but I may replace it when I'm in warmer climes.
__________________
Paul
2006 Patriot Thunder C13 Allison 4000
2010 Ford Flex Ecoboost AWD
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