Making my Sterling towbar work

[n9iui]

We traded in our 2000 Jayco Eagle Class C on a 2005 Winnebago Sightseer 29R Class A.
The hitch on the Winnie is 5 inches taller than the Jayco, so I need to figure out a solution to pulling our 2006 Jeep Wrangler toad. On the Jayco, our Sterling All Terrain tow bar was perfectly level.
I bought a 4 inch drop bar from the local dealer but it was also quite a bit LONGER so the safety cables and lighting cables were too short.
I just took delivery of a Blue Ox 4" drop bar that only extends the bar 7". I haven't tried it yet; the Winnie is in a storage lot due to a cranky neighbor. I'm hoping that this one won't be too long. I REALLY hate using a drop bar because of the added leverage and looseness it causes.
Does anyone have any other ideas? Is anyone else running something similar?
I even thought about doing a 4" lift on the Jeep but the wife is only 5'2" and can barely climb in as it is!
HELP PLEASE!

[dons2346]

I have to use a drop receiver also. I shoved the drop receiver all the way in the coach receiver, used a scribe and etched the paint on the male end through the holes in the coach receiver. I did the same thing on the towbar using the holes in the drop receiver. I then used a drill press to drill holes in the marked areas on the bar and the drop receiver where they were marked. Problem solved.

[ernieh]

n9iui,

My question is what brand base plate are you trying to use, and does it mount above or below the bumper? If your current base plate is below the bumper, one that mounts above might solve your problem.

I used to pull my 97 Wrangler with a base plate made out of 2" angle iron mounted on top of the bumper. I believe it was similar to one that was made by Blue OX. It served me well for about 20K miles.

[n9iui]

Originally Posted by dons2346

I have to use a drop receiver also. I shoved the drop receiver all the way in the coach receiver, used a scribe and etched the paint on the male end through the holes in the coach receiver. I did the same thing on the towbar using the holes in the drop receiver. I then used a drill press to drill holes in the marked areas on the bar and the drop receiver where they were marked. Problem solved.

I had planned to do that, but the dropped part of my new drop bar isn't thru-and-thru. It's sealed in the back.

[dons2346]

Originally Posted by n9iui

I had planned to do that, but the dropped part of my new drop bar isn't thru-and-thru. It's sealed in the back.

Don't quite understand what that has to do with it but anyway, cut the end off.

[SCVJeff]

I had exactly the same problem, but needed a raise... I just didn't want the extra length so had my local hitch shop custom make this 'Z' Hitch. They added hardened nuts welded on as well to cinch it down and it won't vibrate at all. All this wasn't cheap either...

As you can see there is only about 3" difference between the stock and extended hitch.

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by n9iui

We traded in our 2000 Jayco Eagle Class C on a 2005 Winnebago Sightseer 29R Class A.
The hitch on the Winnie is 5 inches taller than the Jayco, so I need to figure out a solution to pulling our 2006 Jeep Wrangler toad. On the Jayco, our Sterling All Terrain tow bar was perfectly level.
I bought a 4 inch drop bar from the local dealer but it was also quite a bit LONGER so the safety cables and lighting cables were too short.
I just took delivery of a Blue Ox 4" drop bar that only extends the bar 7". I haven't tried it yet; the Winnie is in a storage lot due to a cranky neighbor. I'm hoping that this one won't be too long. I REALLY hate using a drop bar because of the added leverage and looseness it causes.
Does anyone have any other ideas? Is anyone else running something similar?
I even thought about doing a 4" lift on the Jeep but the wife is only 5'2" and can barely climb in as it is!
HELP PLEASE!

something like this hitch immobilizer bx88224 will tighten it up so it doesn't wobble.

Blue Ox Drop Receivers

[SCVJeff]

Originally Posted by RonMelancon

Please go to Dangerous Trailers.org and take note...the hitch you are making has not been tested...you are putting the people who are driving behind you at risk.

Would you fabricate your child's safety seat the same way? Then why is the person behind you any less significant?

See this e mail I received......


First Name : Mohammad
Last Name : Redacted
Address Street 1 : Redacted
Address Street 2 : City : S
Zip Code : State : FL
Daytime Phone : Redacted
Evening Phone : Redacted
Email : Redacted
Comments : My wife was wife was killed by a run away trailer on April 16, 2011 in Jacksonville Florida on SR 13 in Saint Johns county.

What are you talking about and who are you addressing it to?

[n9iui]

Originally Posted by ernieh

n9iui,

My question is what brand base plate are you trying to use, and does it mount above or below the bumper? If your current base plate is below the bumper, one that mounts above might solve your problem.

I used to pull my 97 Wrangler with a base plate made out of 2" angle iron mounted on top of the bumper. I believe it was similar to one that was made by Blue OX. It served me well for about 20K miles.

The baseplate is Roadmaster, and is below the bumper. I'm not wanting to shell out another few hundred dollars on another base plate; so far I haven't found one that goes above the bumper and doesn't look like hell. Maybe I need to look some more though; I might have missed one. Thanks.

[n9iui]

I think I've decided to cut off a few inches of the tow bar and redrill new holes. Now if I can find a machine sh in Indianapolis that will do it. So far three have turned me down. Must be afraid of the liability.

[n9iui]

RonMelacon, what in blazes are you talking about?!
I plan on using approved hitch materials in whatever I do, so please go hijack someone else's thread.
Moderators? Is this allowed on this forum?

[SCVJeff]

I'm glad it's not just me that can't figure out all his meaningless (to this thread) ramblings. I wonder if he's stopped long enough to even figure out we're not talking about trailers?