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Old 08-22-2014, 01:14 PM   #29
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You can order a dropped hitch receiver from etrailer (roadmaster hitch) It has a 4" drop on the bottom and a 2" drop/lift on the top. You can put your hitch in the 4" drop and a bicycle rack in the 2" receiver now on the top. I bought one and tried it out on the pickup, (along with my 2009 Mini Cooper S) but have not tried the hitch on the bus along with my bicycle rack. Heading to FL from PS in September. I will know better then. Oh yea, they are sold out on Camping World.
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailorbuoy View Post
Towing with Blue Ox Towing Package. This system works great with our 2005 manual transmission Mini Cooper.
In the picture the tow bar does not look level?
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Old 08-22-2014, 02:02 PM   #31
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I got this from Amazon - worked well !

gave me an extension and a 2nd receiver.... but watch your weight limits
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:36 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Bill View Post
If you want to hang the bikes on the back of the MINI, two companies make hitches that have bike racks available.

Minidomore
Minifini

Just google either of those and see their offerings, I have the minidomore hitch on my 2010 Clubman and when not in use the hitch is hidden behind the license plate.

When I tow my MINI, I just hook it up, put in neutral, make sure the parking brake is off and lock the doors, no key inside.

Bill
Good sources. And let me add a hard earned comment. The hitches for Minis are meant for LIGHT loads. Very light. I towed a 2010 MCS R56 for two and a half years. This is NOT about the RV towing part, but the hitch for the Mini.

During that time I always had some type of weight on the hitch. Driving in Central Texas one day I noticed the rack (attached to the hitch obviously) seemed to be bouncing up and down with dips in the road. Sure enough, the weight on the hitch had not only loosened the mounting bolts, but the "play" had created a weak spot on the weld for the rack inserted into the hitch. Every bump and dip (compounded by towing it behind the MH) further exasperated the problem. The solution was to take it to a custom hitch facility (Austin in my case)'and have them weld strengthening struts to the hitch and help distribute the load. Despite that, 6 months later, the rack itself failed from the constant movement and the rack was dumped on the freeway from the back of the mini at highway speed. Embarrassing to say the least! That, at least, was the rack, not the hitch.

But my recommendation is that you not only reinforce the hitch as I had done, but take a careful review of your 1" rack insert and have a welder determine if you should have a similar reinforcement done there. For a few bucks you could potentially save the expense of replacing bikes, insurance claims for damage to others, and sleep sound at night.

Somewhere, I still have photos of the work that was done on my old Mini. If you want to see them, drop me a PM and I'll try to dig them up.

Best of luck!
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:37 AM   #33
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Dropped hitch

Thanks for the info on the concern for dragging the 4" drop. I am towing with a Fleetwood 38' diesel. The 4" barely gets me into the safe zone with the Mini. I will watch for signs that it has touched and maybe get a roller just in case.

I have not tried the bike mount yet, but will do soon. I did lose a bike in the middle of Chicago traffic a few years ago. The bike rack was on the back of a trailer and just failed from fatigue.

I towed my Mini on a Demco dolly last year. Went 4500 miles and no problems towing. I liked it, but what I did not like was the 30 minutes to load and unload. You can load a Mini on a Demco easy, but when you back it off...the bottom bumper fascia and the flex air dam are left on the dolly!! That sucks bad. I modified the air dam and cut the fascia off horizontal on the ends. That still was not enough and ended up making wood ramps that would keep the dolly from tilting when unloading. Lots of extra work and more than I could handle. We will now try the tow bar. I believe it will be much easier.
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Old 08-23-2014, 01:16 PM   #34
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I flat tow mine and have for a few years.... No problems BUT it can be a little trying hooking up by yourself - back up, move over a little, oops too much, pull forward some, set parking brake and get out and ck.... This dance can take a while and be a tad frustrating....

We're going on a 5-6 month trip in 2015 and I'm seriously considering a car trailer for a couple of reasons - simply drive it on, set parking brake, strap it down and that's it; also I can get some extra storage space up front on the trailer..... Cost - not much more than a dolly..... Especially if you find a nice used one.....
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Old 08-23-2014, 09:32 PM   #35
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I flat tow mine and have for a few years.... No problems BUT it can be a little trying hooking up by yourself - back up, move over a little, oops too much, pull forward some, set parking brake and get out and ck.... This dance can take a while and be a tad frustrating....

We're going on a 5-6 month trip in 2015 and I'm seriously considering a car trailer for a couple of reasons - simply drive it on, set parking brake, strap it down and that's it; also I can get some extra storage space up front on the trailer..... Cost - not much more than a dolly..... Especially if you find a nice used one.....
I feel your pain - for a fellow Texan the first answer is always a trailer. (Heck, just calculate the extra beer and BBQ you can pack, the cars just the added bonus!) However, my first road trip, 18 states over 4 months pulling a trailer rather that four down, was full of frustration, PITA moments too many to tolerate, and expense. In addition, the biggest PITA, in each and every camp place I stayed I had to find a home for the trailer, or pay extra for a longer drive thru spot. Otherwise you end up parking (& at least 30% of the time paying) to park the trailer in a designated spot.

For those reasons alone, I've never returned to using a trailer or a dolly. With a Mini nothing beats four down. That extra 5-10 minutes is nothing compared to the drama of going the other way.

Just my humble opinion my Texas friend. Best of luck in whatever you decide. Oh, and if you do start traveling with the trailer, throw some Shriner in there just in case we cross trails...I'll help you lighten the load.

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Old 08-23-2014, 11:49 PM   #36
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Miami....

What year is your Mini??? Manual transmission?? Tow-bar set up???! Mine's a 2003 manual and I use a Roadmaster set-up and it tows great....
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Old 08-24-2014, 06:00 AM   #37
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Miami....

What year is your Mini??? Manual transmission?? Tow-bar set up???! Mine's a 2003 manual and I use a Roadmaster set-up and it tows great....
2010 MCS R56 model with manual trans and the RoadMaster setup. You can't even tell it's behind the MH. Best choice for a TOAD I ever made.

I'm actually looking at upgrading to a 2011 Mini John Cooper Works model...I just need to decide if I can put up with all that cutting on the front cap to accommodate the RoadMaster gear. It would be criminal to cut the lines on that car. :-)
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:38 AM   #38
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We have a 2009 Clubman and tow on a Demco dolly. Had problems with the fascia and air dam rubbing on the Demco dolly as it was settling on the forward platform. Solved the problem with adding a 2x8 pt wood ( 3 foot long) to the ramp just before the platform, thereby preventing the contact with the dolly. Have driven 20,000 miles + without any problem. Can load and unload in 5 minutes top. Biggest pain was attaching safety chains to the undercarriage. I wrapped the front axle with chain, with a link or so beneath the axle. Hook up only takes seconds now. Also attached aluminum ramps to the end of the 2x8 so that the tires have no movement on the platform. Previously, there was uneven movement of the tires on the platform, even with the straps taught, due to the articulating movement of the dolly.
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