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Old 02-09-2015, 06:42 PM   #43
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Has anyone here decided not to use the Mopar connector and cable to the 7 pin and used a 6 pin coiled? If so, did you get a new Mopar connector and make a pigtail from the existing connector to the back of a 6 pin, or did you just chop off the Mopar connector and wire into the 6 pin? Trying to figure out which way to go, I have 2 coiled 6 pin to 7 pin cables, and am trying to keep the number of cables to a minimum. I am keeping my existing towed and it will still be setup, should not need it, but you never know.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:32 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UsualSuspect View Post
Has anyone here decided not to use the Mopar connector and cable to the 7 pin and used a 6 pin coiled? If so, did you get a new Mopar connector and make a pigtail from the existing connector to the back of a 6 pin, or did you just chop off the Mopar connector and wire into the 6 pin? Trying to figure out which way to go, I have 2 coiled 6 pin to 7 pin cables, and am trying to keep the number of cables to a minimum. I am keeping my existing towed and it will still be setup, should not need it, but you never know.
I rewired my plug from the RV side of the Mopar connector and wired in a longer 7 way cord since I didnt think the factory one was long enough. Doing that I would just advise you to just cut the 7 way cord wherever you need the length to be and use that to connect to the back of the 6 way connector bracket. I almost did this but since it was quite a bit cheaper to just buy an 8' 7 way cord with plug I just did that instead.
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:24 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UsualSuspect View Post
Has anyone here decided not to use the Mopar connector and cable to the 7 pin and used a 6 pin coiled? If so, did you get a new Mopar connector and make a pigtail from the existing connector to the back of a 6 pin, or did you just chop off the Mopar connector and wire into the 6 pin? Trying to figure out which way to go, I have 2 coiled 6 pin to 7 pin cables, and am trying to keep the number of cables to a minimum. I am keeping my existing towed and it will still be setup, should not need it, but you never know.
I am looking at doing the same thing. I have been looking for the Mopar connector, I think it is part # 05013984AA for the female and 05013988AA for the male connector, but not 100% sure. Does anyone know how to remove the pins from this connector?
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:49 AM   #46
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I have a tool for the pin removal, had it for probably 10 plus years, think it is called a D Sub pin removal tool. Motorola use to give them out with some of their radio repair kits, that is where mine came from.
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:09 PM   #47
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I wasn't sure if there was something else besides the barb of the pins that is locking it in. I know some connectors you have to remove the center piece or lift up on a tab before you can remove the pins.

I could just cut the end off and connect the 6 pin connector on the end, but I like the idea of not destroying the original wire and add a pigtail to go from the Mopar plug to the 6 pin.
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:07 PM   #48
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Here is something new, I installed the harness 2 weeks ago, was not difficult at all thanks to the step by step, and I have installed the baseplate. Yesterday the XM and the Nav System stopped working, the XM states "Check Antenna", and the Nav is stuck at "Acquiring Satellites". The AM/FM still works, as does the iPod connection.
Took it to the Jeep Dealer since it is under warranty, and just received a call that they now want me to authorize a $130 diagnostic fee because the baseplate installation is a modification and can void the warranty, and while Mopar sells a cable for towing, once you hook it up to a motorhome will also void the warranty as it is not factory installed. Mine has not been hooked up yet, still need to do the brake wiring.
I am now waiting for Chrysler Customer Service to call me back, but they are saying the same thing the dealer is, but are escalating since I asked them why they sell a harness and market it as a way to hook up your Jeep, if they will not stand behind it. I may try another Dealer as the local one has bad reviews on Yelp and Google.
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:32 PM   #49
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Here is something new, I installed the harness 2 weeks ago, was not difficult at all thanks to the step by step, and I have installed the baseplate. Yesterday the XM and the Nav System stopped working, the XM states "Check Antenna", and the Nav is stuck at "Acquiring Satellites". The AM/FM still works, as does the iPod connection.
Took it to the Jeep Dealer since it is under warranty, and just received a call that they now want me to authorize a $130 diagnostic fee because the baseplate installation is a modification and can void the warranty, and while Mopar sells a cable for towing, once you hook it up to a motorhome will also void the warranty as it is not factory installed. Mine has not been hooked up yet, still need to do the brake wiring.
I am now waiting for Chrysler Customer Service to call me back, but they are saying the same thing the dealer is, but are escalating since I asked them why they sell a harness and market it as a way to hook up your Jeep, if they will not stand behind it. I may try another Dealer as the local one has bad reviews on Yelp and Google.

Wow that is unbelievable, I can not believe that Chrysler mothership would say that. You would think they are smarter than that. The owners manual tells you how to flat tow the vehicle and sells the wiring harness to do it , but you can't add a baseplate with out voiding the warranty. How does a baseplate differ from an aftermarket bumper or skid plate.

Keep us posted on your out come.
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Old 02-16-2015, 01:03 PM   #50
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Curious why people are choosing to tap into the toad's electrical system just to get lights...
I've flat towed a variety of Chrysler products (Jeeps and Rams) over the years, and never tried to tap into their systems for fear of something going amiss, instead simply running three wires from the connector at the front of the vehicle underneath (along the frame rails) to the back where I tapped directly into the wire going to the stop/turn and tail bulbs just "outside" the light fixture. (the fourth wire from the towing vehicle is the ground - no need to run it all the way back since the Jeeps and Rams didn't use an isolated ground for the lights)
By using diodes you can prevent power to the lights from going anywhere but the bulb (and from power from the toad going to the coach if you step in the brake or turn on the tails in the toad while connected to the coach) - and you haven't tapped into the toad's electrical system so no chance of causing some odd error like some posters here have found.
That being said, it's no surprise the first calls to the dealer and next up to the area rep would result in them telling you installing your cable voided the warranty - the laws about warranties are very specific and I do not think installing a part that is not connected to the part that failed directly or indirectly can be used to void a warranty - at least in CA. The danger comes if indeed that cable taps into the vehicle's entire electrical system and therefore does somehow damage the NAV/Radio - but there's no way a baseplate install has any effect on the electrical system (unless you drilled through a cable doing the install). Get an attorney if you can't get satisfaction!

(Edited to add that I should say I've had various warranty issues with those Jeeps and Rams over the years - all had custom or off-the-shelf base plates installed and even welded to the vehicles, and had the wiring done as I note above - and NEVER did a dealer even try to say I had voided the warranty by doing any of that. The only trouble I had was offering to sell one toad to a CarMax dealer who upon inspection, decided to claim the toad had frame damage because I had base plates welded onto it - and to clarify, they said the welds were fine, but they consider any alteration from factory design to be damage...needless to say I haven't bothered with CarMax since)
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:26 PM   #51
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The ending was, the dealership found the antenna cable was no longer in the back of the stereo, it had simply fallen out. They still tried to charge me for it, until I asked for Chrysler's phone number. I should have steered clear of this place after reading the Yelp reviews, as well as the Google Reviews. I overheard another happy customer asking why it would cost $130 to find out why his truck stalled and was towed in, and it has less than 5,000 miles on it. The Service Writer told him he had modified the truck by adding step boards so Chrysler would not cover it. I have a feeling this is a bad dealership. I am thinking they are trying to charge folks a few bucks upfront, and my guess is they are also billing Chrysler for the same work. Nice way to pad the bottom line. I called another dealership 50 miles away and they said they had no problems with it, and I would be covered.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:10 PM   #52
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MOPAR Harness /Braking system

I plan on using the MOPAR harness on 2015 JK and using an existing Brake Buddy for tow brake. My previous application had a charge wire from the MH to the toad battery and powered the brake buddy from an additional unswitched (always-hot) 12v outlet. I understand the MOPAR harness needs 12v to properly operate the JK lights. Has anyone resolved the issue of power to the braking system without draining the JK battery? Does the 12v in the tow harness power any switched 12v outlets? Does it charge the battery?
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:37 PM   #53
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DoodlebargeMy Brake Buddy Stealth uses the 12VDC from the coach with a isolation diode in the charge line feeding the Jeep battery. I connected the MOPAR harness 12DC on the coach side of the diode so the Jeep battery does not back feed the MOPAR harness.
The harness does not charge the battery nor feed any other 12DC devices.
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:38 PM   #54
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I have towed my JK for 2 days without charging the battery and it did not go dead, but have not tried 3, I probably should have charged it up after 1 day. I am considering a charge line, but not sure if it is a necessity or not. I am thinking of running a 12V outlet for my EvenBrake off the battery. Right now I am using the 12V outlet in the console as it is always hot, but think a dedicated outlet is probably better.
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:05 AM   #55
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So it looks like I could diode isolate a charge line to the Jeep battery and run the Brake Buddy off the unswitched 12v in the Jeep. Thanks for the information .
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:06 AM   #56
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Like UsualSuspect, I too have towed my Jeep with the Brake Buddy plugged into the always hot port inside the center console.

I have towed for 3 days this way and when reaching my destination had no sign that the battery was weak or run down.

I suppose I could tap into the 12v supply coming from the coach, but so far haven't found it to be necessary.

As they say... "Your mileage may vary!"
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