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Old 05-20-2016, 03:00 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by vtwinwilly View Post

As for the center light illuminating when connected to the TV (and pressing the brake)... as I recall it does. I use a Brake Buddy. One of the steps before towing is to purge the vacuum so the power brakes loose their vacuum assist...

...Do double check this if you get a chance because I'm going off of memory here (which is not as impressive as it used to be). I don't recall if the ignition was on in the coach, which may be preventing the constant 12v power to the 7-pin connector.
Done. The center stop light does, indeed, illuminate when the Jeep's brakes are applied even when the TV is connected and running. So... they may not come on at exactly the same time (depending on when the TV brake lights illuminate vs. when deceleration causes whatever braking system you're using activates the toad brakes), but while actively braking all three Jeep lights will be on.

I hear what you're saying about the memory not being what it used to be... I tell people I've got a mind like a steel sieve... half of what goes in runs right out.

Hopefully this eases your OCD a mite. :-)

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Old 08-23-2016, 12:12 PM   #86
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Installed the Mopar harness onto my 2008 Jeep Wrangler 2Dr today. Removed pax seat, panel next to radio speaker, and speaker to improved accessibility. Went in without a flaw. Works as advertised!! Note to 2008 Jeep owners, there is only one plug. Don't waste time looking for a second.

Thanks again for posting the procedures.


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Old 08-24-2016, 10:08 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by FLSteve View Post
Photo 7 – I next fed the wire from the inside of the vehicle through the hole into the engine compartment. Had to work the rubber grommet through the hole and then push it back into the hole from the engine side of the firewall. I did apply some silicone sealant to the grommet as an extra waterproofing measure. A 1-3/8” hole is a perfect fit.

Photo 8 – Shot taken of the rubber grommet installed the hole from the inside of the vehicle.

Photo 9this is what the fun starts … the connector you need is the top one like everybody has stated. This shot shows it (see arrow) and was taken after the lower one was un-connected and pulled down out of the way best it could be. I probably spent a good hour trying to get this un-connected and the wiring harness connected to it. There is hardly any room to get your hands up there and I finally had to do it with just one hand while laying upside down across the passenger seat … was almost to the point of taking out the passenger seat. I did remove the one piece of wire cover molding across the passenger door opening to the front of the vehicle. I never want to have to get to that harness connector again!!

Photo 10 – going back to the engine compartment, this shows how I ran the wire to the front of the vehicle before re-installing the fender.

Photo 11 – This shows where I come out the front of the Jeep and connect to the wire going to the motor home, The harness comes with a cover/plug that you plug into the connector when not using it to keep water and dirt out of it.

Photo 12 – Hooked it all up and YES it worked!

That’s my story and I am sticking to it.

WOW!!! That's a lot of steps. I'm glad I went with the Hopkins wiring harness. Pop out both rear tail lights, pop out the bottom rubber cover on passenger side, plug harnes inline, replace cover, route wires to driver side away from exhaust. Route second set of plugs up through existing access hole and foam cover plug to driver side tail light. Route plug harness to front of Jeep inside of frame. Mount plug at front bumper, done. 1-2 hours tops.

1998 National Seabreeze 1330 Limited Chevrolet P37 chassis 7.4 Vortec 2014 Jeep JKU Sport Toad
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