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Old 04-06-2012, 05:25 PM   #15
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Any body know the brand, model, size, source, etc. of a diode to use in a charging line from the RV to the toad battery?
Thanks
Bob
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:03 PM   #16
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We connected a charge lead from the MH so the toad is always good even with the key on.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #17
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Alan - no diode right? Direct connection controlled basically by the RV ignition key?
Bob
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:04 PM   #18
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If your motorhome has a 7 pin Bargman style plug, it should have a battery hot wire to it for the purpose of charging the battery of anything you tow. It is a pretty simple process to add a wire from the plug on the toad to provide power from the motorhome to the toad's battery. I would install a 30 amp automatic reset circuit breaker in the circuit for protection. No diode is needed. Disconnect the plug at night, so as not to drain the motorhome battery while parked. Some units will have an isolating relay that makes the circuit hot only when the TV ignition is on. Also if you are keeping the ignition switch in the on position for the steering wheel lock you need to make sure that you are not powering the ignition on your toad. That will run the engine computer and the fuel pump, and place a lot of needless wear on those items.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:15 PM   #19
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Toad my 2011 CRV today for 7 hours. Did nothing special except to turn off the radio and navigation system at the volume control knob. Left the key in the aux position. Car started up immediately. Hoping this continues.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:37 PM   #20
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Alan - no diode right? Direct connection controlled basically by the RV ignition key?
Bob
This can be a really simple circuit, or you can over think it/get as carried away as you like?

At minimum, all you need is a ground wire/path and hot wire from one battery to the other (positive terminal to positive terminal). Normally a circuit breaker (auto reset) is installed at each end of the hot line so you're protected against problems anywhere, from one end to the other. This circuit is no different than that used on travel trailers, to charge those batteries on the road. For a toad, you would be running nowhere near that load - but the circuit is the same.
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:50 PM   #21
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It may be worth while to see if this Autofuse will help. It located at Towdaddy.com.
I called them today about a setup for our '05 Ody. They don't have one yet but might be able to work one up since we live in the same town (same as RoadMaster and WheelMaster too).
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:18 AM   #22
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When I wired up my MH and CRV I just ran a 12 gauge wire from battery to battery through the 7 way and put a 25 amp blade fuse at each battery. Works fine.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:15 AM   #23
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When I wired up my MH and CRV I just ran a 12 gauge wire from battery to battery through the 7 way and put a 25 amp blade fuse at each battery. Works fine.
The only problem with fuses is that if you were to hook the 2 vehicles up, and one of them had a dead battery, the fuse will likely let go. Same scenario with circuit breakers would allow the breakers to let go a couple of times, but then they would hold allowing a pretty healthy charge current.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:17 AM   #24
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The only problem with fuses is that if you were to hook the 2 vehicles up, and one of them had a dead battery, the fuse will likely let go. Same scenario with circuit breakers would allow the breakers to let go a couple of times, but then they would hold allowing a pretty healthy charge current.
The charging current a battery accepts is determined by the voltage.
With 30 feet of 12 gauge wire and a load of 20 amps the voltage drop is almost two volts. If the source is 14v it would drop to 12v so not much charging, current flow, would be going on. With a load of 5 amps the voltage drops about 0.5v and you would get some charging.
The fuses are for wire shorts.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:37 AM   #25
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The charging current a battery accepts is determined by the voltage.
With 30 feet of 12 gauge wire and a load of 20 amps the voltage drop is almost two volts. If the source is 14v it would drop to 12v so not much charging, current flow, would be going on. With a load of 5 amps the voltage drops about 0.5v and you would get some charging.
The fuses are for wire shorts.
It was only meant as an idea/suggestion. One gleaned from 19 years of wiring tow vehicles - and troubleshooting/repairing inop. charge circuits. Found the circuit breakers assure a reliable, trouble free circuit, so that's the way I do it. I agree that the fuse "should" work.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:58 AM   #26
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I tow a CRV. Have not had any problems with my battery as I have been using this: Toad Charge device.. LSL Toad Charge Battery Charger

Just another option to look at..works for me.
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:45 AM   #27
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As follow up to my post #17. The seven pin connector on my RV is hot only when the ignition key in the RV is in the on position so I'll run a fused line from the hot pin to the CRV battery. Thanks for the input.
Bob
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:55 PM   #28
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Most of the newer style seven pins are hot only with the ignition. The ignition switch powers a relay and it is a fused circuit. I agree with eariler posts that an auto-reset breaker is a better setup then a fuse, however I would not modify the TV if it came with a fuse. My F-350 has a fused circuit on the factory wired seven pin. When the battery on the 5th wheel died due to a poor connection on the battery post, and I tried to use the power jacks to hitch up, it popped the fuse in the truck and all circuits went dead. Now I carry two spare fuses, and know exactly where the fuse is located in the fuse block so changing it is no problem. The charging circuit is usually a 10 gauge wire, as are the ground, and brake wire. I have both of my boats wired with a charging circuit also, so when the seven wire is plugged in the batteries in the boats charge while driving. It makes for a handy set-up. We towed a Dodge Ramcharger 4x4 for years behind an HRC Imperial and had it set up with a charging circuit. I installed a auto-reset 30 amp breaker, a relay style battery isolator switch in the TV powered by the ignition switch, and another 30 amp auto-reset breaker on the toad. We ran a Brake Buddy on the toad, and powered it from the toad battery, also with an auto-reset breaker. The SUV battery was always hot at the end of the trip.
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