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Old 12-20-2013, 04:58 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by maryinreddin View Post
Another thing we were wondering. Where do you put your safety chains on the tow dolly? We didn't use them the first time we towed the car but I would feel better if the car was attached to the dolly besides the straps. My husband thinks he can find a place under the car to attach them but can't really see any place on the dolly to put the hooks. Thanks.
As Scarb008 stated the tow loop(s) (if present ) are a great place to hook and then hook the chain on the dolly around the front dolly cross bar ( the same bar your winches mount to).

The reason I am making a point of this is; the center cross bar is actually the dolly axle and the hydraulic brake line runs under the axle to the wheels. You don't want to damage it, (no brakes ).

If you don't have a tow loop dropping the chain over the lower "A" arm to the front wheels is good also.
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:07 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by osok View Post
Well the two above thread killer's showed up. OP ask for help with their Acme and get thread killers. Lots of good tow dolly's available including Acme and that is the one the OP has and are asking for help to prevent another accident.
Sorry about my attempt to humor what I thought was a somewhat "snarky" post. Perhaps you should review the thread and note my posts that actually did contribute to the OP's problem before you brand me as a "threadkiller".
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Old 12-26-2013, 11:29 PM   #31
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Update from our trip

We are still on our Christmas trip so I thought I would give you all an update. Everything is going along pretty well. We did have a problem with the safety chains when we first put them on. My car does not have any tie down points we did as was suggested but my husband put them on a little too tight. When we stopped at the first place we attempted to remove the car from the dolly but the car had moved a bit and tightened the chains so we could not move the right one. We finally managed to get it off so now they are on loosely like was suggested. We have ordered new straps that were suggested by another person on this thread. We are getting a little better about putting the car on the dolly (he is driving it up and I am guiding him) and the straping of the wheels is also going more smoothly.
As for plugging in the car. It has been no problem at all. We purchased a adapter plug at Camping world that goes from a 110 outlet (the cord that came with the car has a 110 plug on it) to a 30 amp plug so we can plug it in at the pedestal. Our motorhome is 50 amp so the 30 amp one isn't used at all. It takes about 5 hours or so to charge it from empty, which is less than the 110 charging (it takes almost 7 hours to do it that way). So, I guess you could say that this is a almost perfect toad car. The car uses up the electricity in the first 20 or so miles and then sips the gas that it uses for anything after that. I am truly a Happy Camper!!!
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:42 AM   #32
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Congrats to Pat and Mary, and best luck for continued success.

Thanks for the update about the C-Max...that is a pretty deal!

These settling pains are normal for most anything as complicated as towing a car.

If I may suggest...I think every EZE-Tow owner should visit the Acme website. Richard Brown is back to work and is already making the dolly better...new strap design, new lights, and new spin-out resistant ramps.
See: The Original UltraLight "EZE-TOW" Tow Dolly

I already called and have a new set of lights on the way.

Safe travels
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:06 PM   #33
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New problem we encountered today. While my husband was inspecting our eze tow dolly and car he noticed that both of our chains are missing. He put them on loosely because when he put them on a little tight before he had a hard time getting one off because the car had shifted. So now we will be looking for chains with a locking snap end (they sell them at Harbor Freight). Also, I saw on the Eze tow site that they show totally different ramps than what we received. Are these the new ones or older ones? They have a solid surface which I think would be better than the slotted ones that we have and there isn't a bump at the top. I will write to the owner and see if they could send us a pair of those. I think that would lessen our immediate problems. The dolly is great at towing the car but the driving up the ramps and going over the bump is a little bit of a problem.
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:45 PM   #34
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So sorry for the loss of the safety chains. I have not lost mine, but the open hooks always made me wonder when it would happen. If it happens to me, I will be looking to get safety cables vs. new chains to prevent paint damage on the car or dolly, because like you learned, the chain is supposed to be slack... like:
Trailer Safety Cable | eBay

Here's a picture of the old ramps (flat smoother top):
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Here's the new ramps (checkered top and there is still a front lip) - plus you can see the new lights too:
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These pictures both come from the EZE-Tow website gallery:
Acme Eze Tow Dolly is the Best Heavy Duty Tow Dolly - See For Yourself! | Car Tow Dolly
Older pictures are first on the website...newer stuff is last.

Safe travels
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:36 PM   #35
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Mary and Pat,

If you are still going to Harbor Freight...and still want the flat top style ramps...I saw these yesterday:
Magnum-16000 Auto Ramp Set with Built-In Safety Chock

And these break apart into 2 pieces for easier storage. But like the others, there is a front lip.

BTW, carrying the ramps on the dolly is the way it's designed, but I put my ramps in a basement bin for safety, security, and to keep them clean. The spare is in the bin too.

Safe travels
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:42 AM   #36
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I have used My acme tow dolly for a year now.
My take on the safety chains is they should have enough slack to allow suspension movement going down the road. The car should be able to ride on its suspension taking some of the road shock out of the dolly (and car) as there is no suspension. This slack also should be enough that if the car moves in the tire straps they should still be able to be unhooked

I have found a way to drill and bolt the chain to the dolly and hook them to the car leaving some slack for the suspension movement. I use a bungee strap, to keep the chains tight at the hooks so they remain hooked during travel. ( Note Chain was cut in half, then I bolted cargo tie downs to to frame and used chain connectors.)
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:49 AM   #37
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.....I have found a way to drill and bolt the chain to the dolly and hook them to the car leaving some slack for the suspension movement. I use a bungee strap, to keep the chains tight at the hooks so they remain hooked during travel. ( Note Chain was cut in half, then I bolted cargo tie downs to to frame and used chain connectors.)
I am curious, but would drilling into the metal cross members weaken the steel at that point where the chain is bolted in with? Maybe I am not understanding can you post a picture?
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:46 AM   #38
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Dolly is stored right now sorry no picture. No I do not worry about !/2 inch holes in the centre of 2 inch angle iron. The surface mount tie- down anchor ring would strengthen the angle iron somewhat anyhow.

The ring I have is about 2" high and 2" wide and thicker than the suppled safety chain, similar to this picture.



My cut in half chains are linked to one of these one each side, and go up to hook existing holes in the lower A frame suspension. Length adjustment is done with and chain link connecter to allow slack but still hold car on Dolly if the straps failed.
Depending on the car and where you can hook to would determine where you would mount these. Mine are mounted flat and ahead of the winch blocks a few inches narrower than the hook points on the car with a bungee cord between the two chains. I am finding it very quick and easy to hook up the chains as I only have to squat to hook them, do not have to get on my knees.
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Old 01-19-2014, 01:33 PM   #39
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An update on our tow dolly. We have purchased new style straps and they are so much better. No more ring to get centered on the tire. The straps have sewn in cross straps so you don't have to adjust them. It should be a lot quicker to put them on and off. We have have fastened our chains to the dolly permanently and we got locking hooks so we won't loose them again. We haven't used our new system yet but we hope to in the next month or so. I will let everyone know how everything works after our next trip. Thanks so much for all your replies and suggestions, it really helped us out. We also have a adjustable hitch ball on the back of the mh now so we can raise or lower the dolly according to the terrain we are on. The ramps now will go under the lip of the dolly deck making the transition much better. This suggestion came from Richard Brown at the Acme company and I thank him so much for the tips.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:00 PM   #40
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An update on our tow dolly. We have purchased new style straps and they are so much better. No more ring to get centered on the tire. The straps have sewn in cross straps so you don't have to adjust them. It should be a lot quicker to put them on and off.
The "ring-less / sewn straps are a huge improvement, I bought a spare set after using them the first time. Don't ever want to mess with the others again. I had posted somewhere that I also bought a "Hitch Ball Wrench" this is an 18" box end wrench ($10) available at Wal-Mart or Harbor Freight. Allows you to get the straps good and snug without harm to one's internal organs .
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:37 PM   #41
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My car has the push to start function and there is a way to get it into neutral but so far Ford has not been able to find a solution for dead battery problem. It was going to cost us double what the tow dolly cost and they would have to go deep into the electrical system to do the wiring. That did not appeal to me because this car is a plug in hybrid and would rather not have some inexperienced tech rooting around in my electrical system trying to get everything to work. We will try putting the car on the dolly when it comes back from the shop to see if our modifications have done the trick. If not, then I see a beater car in our future to get us from point A to B and not much else. Thank for your insight and experience.
Maryinreddin, Looking at the current Acme Eze Tow dolly, the ramps look like giant graters. Do your ramps not have that type of surface ? Because these should have plenty of wet surface traction.
Also, how do you manage the battery drain issue since acc key is left on ?
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:53 PM   #42
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Unfortunately we bought our tow dolly last year when they had the ramps that are plastic in some of the pictures. I wish we had those nice metal ones that actually stay clamped to the dolly. We actually had one of the ramps fly out from under the tire when the car was going up on to the dolly....pretty scary. They are like the ramps that you drive your car on to do an inspection under the car. They have a stop at the top which you have to gun the car over to get the wheels on to the dolly. I now let my husband drive the car up because when I did it the car slid over to the right (the tires slipped because it was wet) and damaged our bumper. The bumper had to be replaced as well as the front dam. I cannot see spending another $189. on those new ramps so we will make due with what we have. If it really becomes a problem we will take the two motorcycle ramps we have, cut them down to size and use them on the dolly.
The battery drain would be a problem if we flat towed the vehicle. Because it is a push button system you cannot put the transmission into neutral without turning the car to the acc position. If you read some of the C-Max Energi Forums you will see it is a problem that Ford needs to address before it would be feasible to do this. Besides I really didn't want someone rooting around in my electrical system.
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