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Old 04-21-2014, 02:11 AM   #43
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all the ramps will either spin out or flip up unless they're attached to the dolly in some way. Ball-release pins are an easy way to hold two objects together temporarily without threaded fasteners.
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:39 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VanDiemen23 View Post
all the ramps will either spin out or flip up unless they're attached to the dolly in some way. Ball-release pins are an easy way to hold two objects together temporarily without threaded fasteners.
This is not factual for the newer ramps (like pictured in the above post) standard since 2013.
My post/pic in this thread from December was an error...Acme phased out the plastic ramps last year

The new ramps can be seen on the home page: Car Tow Dolly -The Lightest and Toughest Tow Dolly For All Car Towing Needs - Acme Car Tow Dolly Company

These newer ramps are very aggressive in tread and hook to the dolly, but still store away to prevent loss or impact with the car.

Once, I "spit" one of my old style ramps out the back while loading - once. It was pretty funny, because I was loading on gravel, just like the manual says to avoid.

Safe travels
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Old 04-26-2014, 05:54 PM   #45
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Front wheel drive only?

Hi there towing forum!! I noticed on the manf site that the Acme EZE tow is made for front wheel drive vehicles only.

Quote from their site "All dollies are designed for front wheel drive vehicles. However many people have told us that they have towed their car backwards. Sorry we cannot advise you on this technique."

I don't want to tow backwards but have noticed others using it forward for other vehicles. I was hoping to pull a 2003 Trailblazer (rear wheel drive) with the new Acme EZE tow.

What's the scoop with "front wheel drive vehicles only"? Any info is appreciated!
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:35 PM   #46
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Kurt and Deb

There will be problems towing a car rear end first with an EZE Tow, because there is no pivot pan in the dolly's frame or steering in the dolly's wheels.

The EZE Tow uses the car's steering to make a turn - just like flat towing - the car's wheels pivot, allowing the set-up to "bend" in the middle.

To tow rear end first (can and has been done), you need a conventional dolly like U-Haul rents with some type of system to make turns within the dolly design.

Best luck
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Old 04-26-2014, 10:37 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Kurt and Deb

There will be problems towing a car rear end first with an EZE Tow, because there is no pivot pan in the dolly's frame or steering in the dolly's wheels.

The EZE Tow uses the car's steering to make a turn - just like flat towing - the car's wheels pivot, allowing the set-up to "bend" in the middle.

To tow rear end first (can and has been done), you need a conventional dolly like U-Haul rents with some type of system to make turns within the dolly design.

Best luck
Hi Scarab, thanks for the info! I definitely won't consider towing backwards. My question was in relation to towing a rear drive vehicle with the front tires up. The tow vehicle is an older 4 x 4 trailblazer on which I can disengage the drivetrain.

I understand I can tow with 4 down but don't want to spend the $3500+ since I'll be replacing the vehicle in a year or so. Will prob do the 4 down with the new toad but for now I need to figure out something else. And the EZE tow trailer seemed like a cheap alternative until I get something new.

Thoughts?
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:45 PM   #48
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Kurt and Deb,

If the transfer case in the Trailblazer has a real neutral position, then it could work.

But Jeeps owners have found that there can be damage caused by dolly towing. It's something related to the speed difference between the front and rear drive shafts in late model Wranglers (no free wheeling front hubs) so they only flat tow Jeeps.

I think the issue is oil movement in the case. If the front shaft is lower than the rear shaft spindle, the gear oil pick-up might be connected to the front shaft. So, 4 down would move the oil, but dolly towing leaves the front shaft static.

Sorry - no specific yes or no.
Best luck
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:04 AM   #49
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I hadn't considered the oil movement, thanks for the heads up! I guess I'll be contacting my local dealer to see if they can shed some light.

Thanks and happy travels...
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Old 04-27-2014, 06:01 AM   #50
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Our tow vehicle will be a RAV4 & figure to take care of the battery drain simply by tieing a self contained solar panel to the roof rack. Self contained in that it has a controller mounted on the underside. Not worried about the little bit of power loss from the rope going over the top of the solar panel.
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:39 PM   #51
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Boy I'm glad I didn't kill the thread..
Have you looked into a KArKAddySS never loss any chain's or ramps.
We wrap the safety chains loosely around the frame and then back down and secure to lower part of chain.
In 3 years we haven't had problems with it except for 1 over shoot, 3-4 hour delay to get the caddie back where she was suppose to have stopped. What a way to start out on that trip Never again...
Happy Travels, Tim
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:58 PM   #52
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Boy I'm glad I didn't kill the thread..
Have you looked into a KArKAddySS never loss any chain's or ramps.
........
Happy Travels, Tim
Huh?

How would someone kill a thread...going off-topic is different, like how did a KarKaddy get into an Acme experience

Demco makes a great dolly...just heavier and higher cost than needed
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:56 AM   #53
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lol
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:41 PM   #54
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Acme Tow Dolly

We have a Sunseeker 3100SS by Forest River. It a roughly 32' with the Ford 6.8L V-10. We got our tow dolly at a dealer close to the factory and got a good deal on it. It has the metal (grater) ramps. They just hook onto the dolly and I had one fly off towards the RV once when I stopped on the ramp and tried to start back up it again. Fortunately my wife was back out of the way as it would really have caused some damage had it hit her. She isn't much help trying to get it lined up and on the dolly so I usually end up doing it myself. One time I was tired, frustrated and STUPID and assumed (you know what they say) I was lined up. Gunned it up the ramps...too far to the right, hit that piece of metal that sticks up and heard the sickening sound of swooshing air. Had to put the spare on the car and then have a new tire installed. We were given the wrong straps (too small) when we bought it. I sent them pictures of them and they sent me the new correct ones for free. Their video on how to load the car on is great it was just my impatience that cost me a new tire. Anyone have a good fix for how to fasten the ramps on so they can't come loose? As long as you keep moving until you're on the dolly no problem but if you do stop, don't try to then go on up. Back down and try again.
I understand this is an old post but maybe someone will read and comment.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:27 AM   #55
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We had this tow dolly for a couple of years and only recently had my car wired so we could pull it 4 down. The reason for changing methods was because it was too hard on my husband. There were places that we went last summer that they required we remove and move the dolly and I don't care what anyone says, it's a heavy bugger. After traveling 3 1/2 months last summer we had enough of the loading and unloading to last us a lifetime. You are fortunate that you have the metal ramps. We started out with the plastic ones and they were a nightmare. Our second time putting the car up on it and it slid into that metal piece on the frame and tore off the front bumper. We had to have the whole front bumper replaced as well as painted so it was well over $1000. when we were finished. When the new metal ramps came out we jumped all over that right away. We found that if you put two by six pieces of wood (they need to be cut to fit under the ends)at the end of the ramps maybe 12 to 15 inches long, it helps with the kicking out of the ramps when the car goes up. You are right that you should not attempt to restart your car once you have stopped before getting to the front. My husband was the one who drove the car up with me in the front straddling the bar so he could see where the middle was. There really is no good way to fasten the ramps. Just go slow until the tires hit the top then you will have to give it a little gas to get the tires to hit the bar. We did find some great straps on the internet. We bought a pair to have on hand here Tow Dolly Basket Straps - Wheel Net Car Tire Tie Down Basket Straps. It's always a good idea to take extra ones in case the ones you are using get cuts in them or fray. We also had a bad thing happen on our way home last year. We were going down the highway and there were some truck tire pieces in the road (we call them road gators). We managed to miss it with our motor home but it must have hit the dolly tire. When we arrived at our destination we weren't' even intending to take the car off because we were only staying a couple of nights. When my husband went to check on the car and dolly he discovered a 4 inch piece of tire missing from one of the dolly tires. We were lucky that there was a Les Schwab tire place was in town, so we hitched the dolly to the car and drove it into them to have the tire replaced. If we hadn't checked it it probably would have blown on the road and maybe dumping the car off. So, check those tires frequently. They are high speed tires but they will wear out pretty quick. We had just replaced them before our trip started. I hope I gave you some insight into this dolly. It was a great dolly and it eventually went to a good home. If you have any other questions just ask. Also, Richard at the Acme can also suggest remedies that he has come up with. One of the newest things he did on the new trailers is put a long screw up through the place when the ramps are stored and a big wingnut is tightened down to hold them there. So, no more straps to hold them in place which I think is a BIG improvement.
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