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Old 05-20-2012, 04:01 PM   #1
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My Jeep tow set-up

I've read many threads pertaining to toads, it seems that almost all problems come from DIY installs. I may try to set up my next vehicle but my current set up was done professionally to a tune of $2300 for the entire package. I will say it is a rather complicated system, what with the breakaway system(I have a Dp so air brakes) and the mh powers all the signals. I will say get non binding tow bars I've seen them go on sale for a good price off and on, and it's totally worth it. Some might say that it's over kill but I haven't had any issues and it's 100% legal. I know, I need to get my grille painted.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:29 PM   #2
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That's quite some riggin' there.

1999 HR Navigator 42DSS
2008 Jeep Wrangler X Unlimited
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by dashdriver View Post
That's quite some riggin' there.
But nothing more than what's required. I did the install on our '97 Jeep with the same equipment.
I pretty much did the same thing on the '05 Ody except RoadMaster did the bracket install at the factory.
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
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RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '05 Odyssey
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:57 AM   #4
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Explain the brake system to me, what is it, and where do you get it?
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by SeattlePirat
Explain the brake system to me, what is it, and where do you get it?
You can get it at any dealership or mh supply, there is a difference in diesel and gas, gas uses hydraulic and diesel uses air brakes. My mh is diesel, so I have an air connection near my seven pin, I connect an air hose from the mh to my jeep from there the air is routed to a break away system (in the unlikely event your toad breaks loose of the mh, it brings the toad to a controlled stop, minus steering). The break away system is basically a canister of compressed air that is triggered by a switch mounted on the front of the jeep(the small box with a key ring attached). The air line is then routed through the fire wall and ends with a coupler under the dash, from there I hook up a pneumatic piston that mounts to the floor and brake pedal alowing the mh to activate the brakes in the jeep. It sounds complicated. I don't have any experience with gas, but their systems seem more simple.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:35 AM   #6
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Erlingii: First, there is no guarantee that because you have diesel, you will have an air system, let alone an air outlet at the back. For example, I had a 1993 Winnebago Itasca diesel pusher without air brakes and it had nothing like what you describe. Although there are a few (very few) gassers with air brakes, the air system described is not universal in diesels either. I think the difference is whether or not the motorhome has air brakes or air assist brakes and/or air ride suspension. And that will probably depend on either the size or the number of bells and whistles the unit has, not upon whether it is gas or diesel.

The setup you have does not appear to be all that good. For example, it looks like the break away switch is installed in the plastic of the bumper - it seems it would pull out snapping that plastic before the pin dislocated - have you actually tried it? And the air canister for backup operation - are you sure that it doesn't have a pump that runs on the toad's battery to provide backup pressure? If not, it doesn't sound very safe to me. How long will the system operate without additional air?

Another thing is the connector - I prefer to have the connector hidden. (I guess you could just paint it.) I use Roadmaster EZ-style baseplate with a Falcon2. I don't like the weakness exhibited by the Blue Ox baseplates (they even require an additional safety cable to the vehicle from the baseplate), so the connector is not provided on the baseplate as on the blue ox baseplate. I use a seven blade male-to-male and run the power from the motor home's 7-blade to a 7-blade on the front of the Jeep and then run power for charging the Blue Ox Patriot from there. The Jeep (2009 Liberty Sport) has a disconnect so that the battery can be completely disconnected. The Roadmaster 155 light set works great to provide brake, tail and turn signal lights independent of the toad.

The only reason I have the Patriot brake system is that it is required to have a system. I located the cheapest non-invasive brake system that I could find. Since I already had the Falcon2, the Ready Brake Brute (my first choice) was out of the running (too expensive). The Ready Brake operates like surge brakes which is what you really need for a toad. It is completely self-contained and automatically goes to full braking on breakaway. They also sell a master cylinder unit that installs between the tow bar and the motorhome, but that adds another 15 inches and another pair of pins to the setup and was just as expensive as the Patriot.

The Patriot was my second choice because it is totally non-invasive to the toad and will operate as I wired it from the motorhome and from its internal battery at disconnect. It is extremely easy to install and does the job.

Anyway, if I were you, I would look for a better way to anchor that breakaway switch.

One other thing, I learned long ago not to trust just anyone to work on anything I own - yes, they have some training, etc, and perhaps they have worked on a few vehicles. But the main thing to check on is how their reputation is in the community and how well they handle problems that develop. So I do almost all the work on my vehicles as long as I am able.

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