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Old 10-25-2015, 04:07 PM   #43
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I may be moving to a Storm on a F-35 Chassis soon so that would be the schematic I would need. Nothing decided yet so we will.
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:24 PM   #44
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Oops. We will wait before doing anything
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Old 10-25-2015, 05:33 PM   #45
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My 2013 MH is on a 2012 F53 chasis. Having worked in electronics and being a radio amateur for almos 60 years I am very sceptical. I measured the voltages at the 7 pin connector on my MH before building my own cable that connects my toad. There is voltage on pin 4 controlled by the ignition switch. I did not trace the wire to which pin on the accessory switch it is connected. However, for anyone wiring up for a toad or trailer it is always a good idea to make sure the plug on a vehicle is wired correctly before connecting to it just to eliminate problems. I will look in my Monaco manual but I don't recall seeing a toad wiring pin diagram. I will post it if there is a schematic. BTW etrailer has the 7 pin wiring layout that is supposed to be standard on all 7 pin plugs.
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Old 10-25-2015, 06:30 PM   #46
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I checked my complete Monaco manual. Nothing in there about the the rear MH trailer socket. I suspect it is in the Ford F53 manual.

It is only a 7 pin socket and is shown on e-trailer. It isn't rocket science. Measure each pin on the socket and you'll know which ones go where. Do not depend on the color codes. MH manufacturers extend chassis and color codes may be different that what Ford uses or standard in the industry.

If you are wiring your own trailer or toad don't do it with checking out the pinout on the MH socket first. Just takes a few minutes.
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:03 AM   #47
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I checked my complete Monaco manual. Nothing in there about the the rear MH trailer socket. I suspect it is in the Ford F53 manual.

It is only a 7 pin socket and is shown on e-trailer. It isn't rocket science. Measure each pin on the socket and you'll know which ones go where. Do not depend on the color codes. MH manufacturers extend chassis and color codes may be different that what Ford uses or standard in the industry.

If you are wiring your own trailer or toad don't do it with checking out the pinout on the MH socket first. Just takes a few minutes.
The manual for the Safari 05 Cheetah is on the Allied Recreation Group website. The manual has a drawing of the MH plug on about pg. 47??. It shows a charge blade, or , aux. We don't have a Radio Shack anymore (thought they went belly up a while back). I'll just have to look around for a power diode. BTW, I was going nuts trying to get the toad lights to work and finally (after a couple of "experts") shrugged their shoulders I had to check every pin out and colors where not indicative of the function.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:16 AM   #48
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The color code was totally wrong on my Monaco MH. Fortunately I checked everything first. (I went through a shallow dry wash in Quartzsite and had to replace my 7 pin socket) A multimeter is a must have but I wouldn't be without the test light with probes available at almost every auto parts store.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:11 AM   #49
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I placed a charge line to the battery jump start terminals under the hood. I do not pull any fuses and I have a braking system plugged into the DC outlet in the passenger cabin. I towed all the way from Oregon to Palm Springs over 4 days. The battery was strong at the end of each day. It is not necessary to pull fuses if you have a battery charger installed.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:27 AM   #50
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You can install a 12V battery charger like the RVI Brake Towed Battery Charger. It charges the batteries and prevents back feeding and regulates the charge. I got mine from RVI Brake. I mounted it under the hood and can see the red LED for verification when I plug in the toad.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:55 AM   #51
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You can install a 12V battery charger like the RVI Brake Towed Battery Charger. It charges the batteries and prevents back feeding and regulates the charge. I got mine from RVI Brake. I mounted it under the hood and can see the red LED for verification when I plug in the toad.
$50 for a "premium metal casing fights against extreme temperatures." and "LED glows when motor home is charging the towed battery." I'd like to know how a metal box fights extreme temperatures, and how you can see the LED since the video shows it being installed under the hood of the toad.

Batteries that are both charged to begin will have little or no current flow between them. As a charging voltage is added to the RV battery by the alternator, the voltage will transfer through to the toad battery and maintain it at full charge also. There is no 'feedback' if connected battery to battery unless you leave them connected and discharge one, then the other will be discharged to the same degree. When I stop for the night, I go back to the toad, remove my key from the ignition, lock it, and disconnect the umbilical cord for the night.

If you connect to another 12 v source in the back of the RV, all bets are off, the toad battery could cause current flow back into the circuit it is attached to. In that case, a suitable sized diode could be added to prevent the reverse current flow. Another solution would be running a suitable gauge wire directly to the chassis battery back to your trailer plug on the bumper of the RV. This way you're not taxing the circuit, fuse, switch, or relay that supplies the power to the circuit you tied to in the rear of the RV.

Using an auto reset circuit breaker to prevent shorts or the momentary current surge when the engine is being started is all that is needed. Putting another circuit breaker or fuse on the wire attaching to the toad battery prevents a short circuit problem in the toad wiring system.

Oh, and if you wish, you could enclose any of the components you add in a 'premium metal casing' like a Sucrets throat lozenge tin.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:32 AM   #52
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$50 for a "premium metal casing fights against extreme temperatures." ...... I'd like to know how a metal box fights extreme temperatures

Plastic boxes can melt or warp when exposed to extreme heat.....metal does not.
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:49 PM   #53
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Plastic boxes can melt or warp when exposed to extreme heat.....metal does not.
And what in the box is going to heat up to such a high degree that it would melt a plastic box? The installation video shows it being zip tied on the radiator support, no cautions of it needs to be isolated because of heat danger. It is fused with a 15 amp fuse, shouldn't that blow if it heats up to a high degree?

I believe they couldn't think of enough positive things to say about a box with a LED, fuse, and probably a diode in it so they had to add the 'premium metal box' feature.

I'm sorry, I think all these little boxes, like a Toad charge or this one are not needed. The LED gives another power draw on the batteries you're trying to keep charged and the little boxes are usually in a location you don't see them anyway.
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Old 10-26-2015, 01:40 PM   #54
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And what in the box is going to heat up to such a high degree that it would melt a plastic box?

The heat inside the box is not the problem. While the vehicle is being towed it's engine is off......but let's say you mounted it in the engine compartment where it would be exposed to heat from the exhaust headers while you are driving the vehicle.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:00 AM   #55
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$50 for a "premium metal casing fights against extreme temperatures." and "LED glows when motor home is charging the towed battery." I'd like to know how a metal box fights extreme temperatures, and how you can see the LED since the video shows it being installed under the hood of the toad.
It's not just a metal box. It's a charger that limits the current to 15A. I mounted it where I can see the red LED through the grill. I have a fused wire to my 7 point plug coming directly from the coach batteries. I could have just as easily ran a wire directly to the toad battery instead of using the charger. As long as nothing goes awry with the RV's voltage regulator, it would have been fine. I chose to add the charger instead.
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Old 10-27-2015, 09:55 AM   #56
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Guess some RVers haven't gotten into the 21st century yet. Have you heard they actually build 1500 watt electric heaters with plastic cases? Oh sorry, they even did that back in the 20th century. Like I posted before this isn't rocket science. It is a very simple mod to isolate the toad battery from the MH battery.
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