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Old 10-27-2015, 09:20 AM   #57
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From reading everything available on the web pages for the product, (the installation instructions link is broken) nothing in that box does anything different than a fuse, diode and an LED would do. It limits current to 15 amps by a fuse, no second voltage regulator. The F.A.Q. page is carefully worded and explains exactly what I said earlier, two healthy batteries will equalize. As one is used, the other will have current flow to keep them equalized. Adding a charging device, alternator, battery charger, etc. will maintain both batteries to the same level.

Calling the device a "Towed Battery Charger" is incorrect, the RV engine alternator is providing the charge, the voltage regulator is regulating the charging voltage, the nature of battery science is regulating the charge to the towed. The device only adds a diode and an LED, a lot of money for those components. Install an auto reset circuit breaker to prevent heavy current flow back from the towed battery to the RV while cranking the starter, if you put a diode in the circuit even that would be stopped.

I still think the feature of the "premium metal casing" is ridiculous, if you were to locate it near a high heat source like the exhaust manifold, the wire insulation would melt before the "premium metal casing" would anyway.


Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:53 AM   #58
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I have a Winnebago Vista 27N, 2015 Ford F53 chassis and it provides 12 volts to the 7 way connector with key in run position. No power to it in accessory position or key off position. Don't know about run-start never have checked that. Anyone already know?

The 12 volt feed to the towing connector is fused in the F53 at 20 Amps and is labeled "trailer tow run".

I was going to just connect the B+ and Ground from the 6 way toad connector to the HR-V toad battery using a 20 Amp fuse and a 15 Amp auto-reset circuit breaker in series in the HR-V.

Am I missing anything in my logic?

Randy - Manhattan, Kansas
2015 Vista 27N
2016 Honda HR-V
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:43 PM   #59
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powercat_ras, I'd do it, some on here insist on a diode and/or a Towed Battery Charger, but I don't see the need. With the 20 amp fuse and the 15 amp auto reset CB, I think you've got it covered. You could add an LED if you wish.

Radioshack - Products

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:50 AM   #60
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If you run a charge line from the MH the ignition switch on the MH shuts the power off to that 12 volt line. However, nothing is magic in electronics. That ignition switch in the MH shuts voltage off to other things also. Some things are safety relays etc. In my MH, (F53), with the ignition switch on I can't run electric shades in front, I can't operate my slides, my rear camera is powered up and that line then feeds pin 4 of the 7 pin socket on the rear of the MH. When I connect the charge line to my Jeep and turn off my MH ignition switch the Jeep battery powers up that line. Slides won't operate, shades won't operate and my rear camera is powered on while the cable is connected. I don't how your MH is wired or what other items are connected to that MH ignition. switch. Just makes sense to add a diode to isolate the Jeep from the MH. Try it and if you don't need the diode don't use one. Just be aware some MHs need the diode. Its not like you'll be wondering what you did wrong if you run into those problems.

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