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Old 04-16-2017, 04:29 PM   #1
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New to motor homes, need tow set up help

Have a 2017 Newmar 3124 and bought the Cherokee Latitude with the active drive train 2. In searching all the 4 wheel down setups, my head is spinning at all the options. Is there a good website I can go to to get a "this kit does it all" for my needs? Are there sponsors on this site that can help you get a good deal?

I know I need to install the anti-wobble kit on the Jeep and now I'm also seeing people still having issues if not done right.

Help.
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:58 PM   #2
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Question

you need a anti-wobble kit for a Latitude? why? the problems with Jeeps and the death wobble is mainly with the Wrangler and older Cherokee platforms.

also, BlueOx has a great website to determine what you need... and you can find each part on amazon... like I did.

-Base Plate for the front of the vehicle, must conform to your Latitude frame
-Tow Bar, such as the Alpha
-Drop/Inverter extension f your Latitude connection 'tabs' are more than 3" higher or lower than the height of the coach receiver(per BlueOx)
-Safety Cables
-Vehicle wiring kit with front Plug, wired internally to rear brake/turn lights
-Coach to Vehicle 7pin to 6pin plug

optional:
-battery cutoff, either mounted under the hood, or via a line into the dash area
or you can pull a fuse every time...
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:52 PM   #3
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To add to what hogcard said, here is what *I* recommend, but there are many options (and opinions)...read, read, read this forum and make your own decisions.

Tow Plate. This is the hardware that you install on your vehicle to which you attach a tow bar. You need to make sure you get correct one for your year/make/model. Blue Ox seems to be pretty popular (at least that what I've observed on this forum and looking at other towed setups when we've camped), and if you call them they will be happy to help you select the proper base plate.

Tow Bar and Safety Cables. There are several choices for tow bars. I use the Blue Ox Avail on my 2017 F-150...I like the design, and it comes with safety cables. Amazon has a very good price on the Avail. From what I can see your Cherokee is probably around 4000 lbs curb weight...a bit more than my C-MAX (my previous towed). That's not too heavy, so you have many options available to you. When you get up to/over 5000 lbs the number of tow bars you can use drop.

Braking system. You must have a braking system to be legal in North America. Regardless of the law, it's just silly to not have one. There is an interesting thread on this HERE (ignore the emotions...it's just a good thread for anyone to read on the yes/no of using a brake system)...I have a post in Post #96. I use the RViBrake3 myself.

You'll probably see the most debate on which "best braking system is best". I've used the ReadyBrute Elite (combined tow bar/brake system) in the past on my C-MAX...and I think it's a fine system (I still own it...sitting in my garage). I decided on the RViBrake3 this time for a few reasons, one of which being the ability to adjust braking sensitivity/power in real time while driving down the road...saved me a ton of time when setting it up and adjusting settings. We just [today] completed a short 3-day weekend with 400 miles round trip, and I can see where it might be useful to adjust this on-the-fly as conditions change (although for this trip I left it on one setting most of the trip). I also like the rapid response time compared to some of the other systems. The designer of this was also the designer of the original Brakebuddy...so they have some history with this.

Brake/Turn Lights. Probably the most difficult (if you are not handy) aspect will be determining the brake/turn light setup...you must have those when you have a towed vehicle. On my C-MAX I used a diode setup from (you guessed it...) Blue Ox, and it work perfectly. On the F-150 I built something custom that is removeable so I did not have to cut any wires or drill any holes in the new vehicle (except for the base plates I've drilled no holes whatsoever). This required some customized work, metal cutting/bending, running wiring, etc. There are some other more easy options as well...I just like to make my stuff either very "built-in" or very "easy in/out".

6-Pin Connector (and 7-to-6 pin cable). This is what connects your MH to your towed electrically (brake/turn signals, and if desired a charge line to keep the towed batter topped off). Blue Ox has the 7-to-6 pin cable, and the 6-pin connection for the car end (I use both from Blue Ox). If you want to keep your towed topped off you can use the RVi Towed Battery Charger.

If you are handy with tools and have worked on cars then you can do all of this yourself. If not, either find a friend who can help, or pay someone to do it for you. RVers are a friendly lot, and full of advice and happy to help...so if you know someone that has done this before that is your best resource.

NOTE: Your Newmar Baystar 3124 has a GVWR of 22000 lbs, and a GCWR of 26000 lbs. So, if you loaded your MH up to 22000 lbs, you would be at the GCWR limit of 26000 lbs with your Cherokee (assuming it has a curb weight around 4000 lbs...and you will have some "stuff" in the Cherokee that will put it over that). HOWEVER, the NCC of your MH is 3826 lbs (NCC is how much "stuff" you can carry IN the MH...you, food, camping chairs, portable grilles, dog food, onboard water, etc.), and I think you'll find it hard to put 4000 lbs of stuff in there. So, if you loaded it with 2000 lbs (this again includes YOU), you'd have 2000 lbs of reserve in the GCWR.
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:21 PM   #4
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I use Blue Ox base plate with a Blue Ox towbar.
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:50 PM   #5
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Try going to www.remcoindustries.com/towing

They are the leader in towing solutions.
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:34 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=MisterT;3552723]you need a anti-wobble kit for a Latitude? why? the problems with Jeeps and the death wobble is mainly with the Wrangler and older Cherokee platforms.......

I have only heard about the wobble with Cherokee models, not wranglers. I have towed two JK's with no problems. FMCA has received reports with even newer Cherokees.
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:40 AM   #7
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If you look in your owners man.you will see section for flat tow.you will have to have wire harness installed.
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Old 04-17-2017, 10:47 AM   #8
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Good answers above. In addition to the Blue Ox website, Roadmaster also has one Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories.
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:25 AM   #9
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I called NSA, told them what I was towing and they put together a package. After the install and doing some lite towing I went back to their site and added a few more items. Much easier than trying to figure out what you need. I ordered the Ready Brake Elite since I didn't want to be bothered pulling something in and out of the car for braking. Great choice from my perspective.
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:50 AM   #10
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There are a crap load of options just like there are a crap load of opinions on which one is better.
You need to decide if you plan on keeping this Toad for the long haul first. This will help with the decision on what type of braking system to install.
You also need to take into account if your MH is a DP or gasser because that will also effect that decision.
Your Base Plates can make a big difference also. Can the connections be removed while not towing so you can make the Toad look presentable.
What type of Tow Bar are you going to get goes with the Base Plates.
You also need to determine how you want to hook up Aux lights on the Toad.
Now if you don't do it all yourself plan on spending $3- $4k.
I know this doesn't help but that is what it is.
Don't skimp because it can cost you a lot more in the end. It's not pretty when your Toad passes you going down the road
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue46 View Post
I ordered the Ready Brake Elite since I didn't want to be bothered pulling something in and out of the car for braking. Great choice from my perspective.
While I agree with you concerning the Readybrake Elite system and better to be bothered pulling something in and out of the car....I have to add that there are other brake systems that once installed in mh/toad, the only connection is the umbilical cable and you have to do that with any system. Some others use an air hose connection, but that is another connection you have to worry about just as you do with the Readybrake Elite system.

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Old 04-18-2017, 12:24 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=RockyMtnRide;3553131]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterT View Post
you need a anti-wobble kit for a Latitude? why? the problems with Jeeps and the death wobble is mainly with the Wrangler and older Cherokee platforms.......

I have only heard about the wobble with Cherokee models, not wranglers. I have towed two JK's with no problems. FMCA has received reports with even newer Cherokees.
XJ Cherokees and TJ Wranglers have EXACTLY the same front axle setup, the only difference (which does not matter AT ALL) is that most XJs have a high-pinion differential and all TJs have a low pinion differential. You can (and I have) unbolt an axle from an XJ and bolt it right into a TJ, and vice-versa. The problem is the inverted Y setup, which changes toe-in during cycling up and down through the suspension. This is aggravated if any lift is installed. The Grand Cherokees also have this exact same setup in some years, and similar in the rest.

Now, although I'm an expert on XJ and TJ suspensions and such, I am not on the JK. I believe though that its setup is improved, as I'm 99% sure the drag link goes all the way over to the knuckle rather than connecting to the tie rod 2/3 of the way over.

I'm surprised to hear the new Cherokee has any of these characteristics, as it is completely unrelated to the XJ, TJ, or JK. It is based on a Fiat platform and has nothing to do with the XJ it is named after.
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:51 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=RobbieH;3555871]
Quote:
Originally Posted by RockyMtnRide View Post



XJ Cherokees and TJ Wranglers have EXACTLY the same front axle setup, the only difference (which does not matter AT ALL) is that most XJs have a high-pinion differential and all TJs have a low pinion differential. You can (and I have) unbolt an axle from an XJ and bolt it right into a TJ, and vice-versa. The problem is the inverted Y setup, which changes toe-in during cycling up and down through the suspension. This is aggravated if any lift is installed. The Grand Cherokees also have this exact same setup in some years, and similar in the rest.



Now, although I'm an expert on XJ and TJ suspensions and such, I am not on the JK. I believe though that its setup is improved, as I'm 99% sure the drag link goes all the way over to the knuckle rather than connecting to the tie rod 2/3 of the way over.



I'm surprised to hear the new Cherokee has any of these characteristics, as it is completely unrelated to the XJ, TJ, or JK. It is based on a Fiat platform and has nothing to do with the XJ it is named after.


I have read that Chrysler sells a wiring harness for Cherokees only that activates the power steering during towing. Applicable for 2014 and newer to prevent wobble. I have a JKU, actually on my second, and have never had a problem
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue46 View Post
I called NSA, told them what I was towing and they put together a package. After the install and doing some lite towing I went back to their site and added a few more items. Much easier than trying to figure out what you need. I ordered the Ready Brake Elite since I didn't want to be bothered pulling something in and out of the car for braking. Great choice from my perspective.
You made a great choice (it's Ready Brute Elite by the way...the ReadyBrake is the standalone surge brake for existing tow bars).

Although I went with the RViBrake3 in my new F-150 towed, I had very good experiences with the RBE on my Ford C-MAX. It's 100% mechanical, and instantaneous in effect (there is no lag or delay due to electronics and such). Once you get past the running of the brake cable (which on my tiny C-MAX was a bit of a hassle), and the breakaway cable (don't forget that), you are then done, and the only setup is clipping the brake cable (so, 5 seconds).
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