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Old 03-24-2014, 06:58 PM   #1
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Not all CR-Vs are the same when it comes to towing

I have a 2007 Honda CR-V XL with a navigation system. I learned a good deal from reading posts on this forum about towing this vehicle. The Honda manual instructs to pull the radio fuse # 34 from the interior fuse box to remove power to the navi system. Just turning off the radio to tow is not sufficient as the navi system keeps seeking position and runs the toad battery down in about 3 hours. The fuse box under the steering column is very difficult to access.
Solutions offered up on this forum include installing a fuse disconnect switch or running a wire from the power umbilical receptacle on the front of the car to the battery to maintain a constant power source to the car battery from the moho alternator. I wanted to be “in the loop” so I contacted Blue Ox and they gave me the model number of a fuse disconnect switch with a short pig-tail. I bought it on amazon for about $60. [If I had any electrical sense, I could have manufactured this with much cheaper Radio Shack supplies.] My mechanic installed the Blue Ox fuse disconnect for me. I tested the switch and it did cut off power to the radio and navi system. I thought it strange that the radio station presets were still present after I turned the fuse disconnect back “on”. It seemed there was still a power source to the radio, but I had no idea what it was since there was nothing in the Honda manual about that.
When I installed the Blue Ox Patriot aux. brake system, I discovered that the three 12-volt receptacles (dash, console, and rear cargo area) had lost power. After a lot of angst, I discovered the under hood fuse box has a fuse for “High Power Sound” because my audio system includes a sub-wolfer [and who knows what else.] When I removed fuse #17 from the under hood fuse box, the radio and navi system were disconnected but I retained power to the 12-volt receptacles and could then hook up the Patriot aux brake system.
When I return from my current trip, my mechanic will disconnect the interior fuse #34 disconnect wiring and run a disconnecting wire from the switch to the under hood fuse box fuse #17.
In hindsight, I sure wish I’d had a wire run from the power umbilical receptacle to the battery.
So, Honda CR-V owners, if you have a fuse in location #17 High Power Sound [all CR-Vs don’t have this] in the under hood fuse box and want to have power to the 12-volt receptacles and want to use an aux. brake that needs one of those 12-volt receptacles, then address fuse #17, not fuse #34 --- or run a power line from the umbilical power receptacle on the front of the car to the battery.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:38 AM   #2
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Radio has two power sources, one retains memory (Presets) one powers the radio.. this is common among all the electronic radios, Including the Pioneer in my dash, the Dodge in my towed's. The Kenwood I had in my old Chevy, the Chevy that used to be there. and many many more. IF your radio has the kind of presets where you push buttons to program, it has two power leads, Memory and Operation.

If you have a vintage ride with the buttons you pull that mechanically record their position in mechinical memory and then move a slider across a dial... Then there is but one cord.. Any one remember those?
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:43 AM   #3
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Yepper, you have confirmed why I just simply pulled a charge line from the coach to the battery on the CR-V. Pulling fuses, adding switches, just seemed like a more complicated proposition.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:34 PM   #4
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smlranger,
I am thinking I'll give up on the fuse disconnect and run a line from the umbilical power receptacle on the toad to the toad battery. Then, I don't have to worry about inserting radio theft codes and resetting radio stations. Did you place a fuse in the line you ran to prevent the chance of over-charging of the toad battery?
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:28 PM   #5
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Personally, I could not be bothered pulling fuses. The hitch shop that installed my base plate, lights etc ran an extra wire into the light plug on the MH off the battery with a 20A fuse. This line is connected through the umbilical cord to the plug on the CRV and connects through another 20A fuse to the Positive side of the CRV battery. Now I can plug in my Patriot to the cigar lighter and away we go.

No pulling fuses, no dead battery.
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:35 PM   #6
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In addition to the charge line, I also had a "Blank Key" cut at the Honda dealer that I use to keep the ign turned on to the Acc position while towing.
This allows me to lock the doors with the key in the ign when we stop for lunch or parked in the Wallyworld lot etc. This key will start the car only for a moment and shut off because it has no program module.
I picked this up from another irv2 er. Best idea since sliced bread.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:31 AM   #7
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If I am using a 7 to 6 umbilical, don't I already have an unused 12v connection at the toad end of the umbilical?
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iRV-in-a-SunStar View Post
If I am using a 7 to 6 umbilical, don't I already have an unused 12v connection at the toad end of the umbilical?
Yes you do. There is one wire in the umbilical cord that is a heavier gauge that is used for this purpose. You will still have to supply power from the MH with a fuse to this pin and then a fused connection at the Toad end to the Battery.

https://www.google.com/search?q=7+pi...w=1024&bih=645
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