Not so Ready Stop

[HD4Mark]

We have had a Ready Brake and Ready Stop for about four years now and no complaints. After returning from our yearly six month snowbird trip the loop on the end of the Ready Stop literally fell off while not even connected.
The cable on it is noticeably rusted compared to the Ready Brake.

I contacted NSA and this was the response.


"We sell both cables for the break-away individually if you want to buy one.
The cable that draped across the tow bar the (Sling) is $22
The one that goes through the break-away body is $12
to get these items you will have to call us.

Tod Westervelt
President"

I have no problem with the $12 but was more concerned that the cable originally supplied was made of inferior material and would have provided no protection in the event the toad cut loose. I will discuss this with NSA when I call and report back. If you have a Ready Stop be sure to check it before your next trip.

[jmckinley]

When I installed my ReadyBrake and ReadyStop I used stainless steel cables instead of the galvanized cables they supplied.

[HD4Mark]

Originally Posted by jmckinley

When I installed my ReadyBrake and ReadyStop I used stainless steel cables instead of the galvanized cables they supplied.

Good idea. It looks like the Read Brake may have either stainless or some kind of galvanized cable as it has not rusted at all. It is in a tube though so that could be saving it.

Maybe a trip to the hardware store is in order rather than buying one from NSA.

[jmckinley]

Mine were galvanized steel. I used the housing, just replaced the cable part.

[HD4Mark]

Originally Posted by jmckinley

Mine were galvanized steel. I used the housing, just replaced the cable part.

I have to assume the Ready Stop cable was not galvanized at all. After the end fell off I took a closer look and it is completely rusted. Sure glad we never needed it.

[jmckinley]

Could be. I thought mine were galvanized but maybe not. Long gone now so I can't check.

[wa8yxm]

First: If that cable is what I think it is. I think 12 bucks is a bit steep.. I will explain in a paragraph.

Second: INSPECTION should be part of the hook up process. and in theory you should have spotted the rust.. Problem with this is the word "THEORY" it is not always possible for a simple visual inspection to spot the rust.


Now: the cable.. A generic cable from a hardware store and a few (4) Cable clamps will replce it for closer to six bucks, and be more open to visual inspection as well. What's more you can buy the proper length so as to be able to attach this cable to something OTHER than the hitch or the safety cable loops.. (Fact: On my coach, a pair of brackets broke, Dropped the entire hitch assembly including the RECEIVER and the safety cable attachment points onto the road.. My bicycle, which rides the hitch, tire hit the road and .. major damage.. This is what caused a passing motorist to call my attnetion to it.. I found the shoulder, , the only connection remaining to the Motor home was the electric brakes for the towed.. They worked, PERFECTLY.

Got dissassembled, wife drove towed, I drove MH, we found a repair facility the next day 50 bucks and I was on the road again.

After that I found a better place for the break-a-way cable.

[HD4Mark]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

First: If that cable is what I think it is. I think 12 bucks is a bit steep.. I will explain in a paragraph.

Second: INSPECTION should be part of the hook up process. and in theory you should have spotted the rust.. Problem with this is the word "THEORY" it is not always possible for a simple visual inspection to spot the rust.

I agree about inspection and we try to always give it a once over when connecting the toad. Where it broke was right at the clamp on the loop. It is tight against the gadget that prevents the cable from retracting if the toad breaks away so that small area is difficult to see. I could see surface rust on the rest of it but it really did not looks that bad.

I also thought $12 was a little steep compared to a length of SS cable and a couple of aircraft cable clamps.

[IdahoSRT10]

I would be more concerned with the angle you have of the cable wire loop. The pull should perpendicular to the tow bar.

[Easyrider]

Idaho, I assume you meant parallel with the tow bar. It looks to me by the picture that his loop for the brakes is pretty close but not quite centered to the base plate attachment points.

[IdahoSRT10]

Originally Posted by Easyrider

Idaho, I assume you meant parallel with the tow bar. It looks to me by the picture that his loop for the brakes is pretty close but not quite centered to the base plate attachment points.

Correct!
I should of said perpendicular with the base plate. Pulling the aircraft cable at an angle will kink the cable and eventually break.

[Redridge]

Galvanized cable? I thought they were supposed to be aircraft cable (thats what I have)... This cable should not rust...

"ReadyBrake uses the weight of the towed vehicle to stop the vehicle. When you step on the brakes of the motorhome the force of the towed vehicle pushes the towbar forward into the ReadyBrake. This force is transferred into the lever on top, which in turn activates your towed vehicle brakes using an aircraft cable. A safe, simple and easy to use solution to stopping your RV."

That cable broke (aircraft cable dont break unless it is cut or pinched and eventually breaks)... NSA should replace that cable for free. It was never under tension so it shouldnt have broke... in other words, when it was crimped on that loop, it was pinched and therfore defective.... I will check our cable for this.

[HD4Mark]

Originally Posted by IdahoSRT10

Correct!
I should of said perpendicular with the base plate. Pulling the aircraft cable at an angle will kink the cable and eventually break.

The brake cable runs inside a tube like an old fashion speedometer cable. Not likely to kink I hope. I decided on the placement on top of the front bumper for two reasons. First the height puts the cable at a level angle to the Ready Brake. Second underneath the plastic covering the bumper has about the best metal to attach to. Behind it, of course is the radiator so a little angle is necessary to clear it. I have straightened it out but it creeps back to that angle. It's not at max tension either. The light weight car could probably get away with no brakes but to be safe we installed the Ready Brake for hard stops and to be legal in states that require a brake.

It really looks to me like where the cable is crimped, it rotted out. I wonder if the cable and that crimp are dissimilar metals causing it to. The rest has some surface rust but not near as bad.

[Jrf4865]

Does anyone have an idea on how to pull the cable back into the device attached at the bumper? On this past trip the cable was pulled out about 3 inches, not sure how or why.