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03-17-2016, 05:24 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69Stang
What if you changed the angle of the cable housing by placing a half washer under the right side of the housing nut and washer?
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That's actually not a bad idea. Not at all, in fact. Honestly, if I changed the angle even just a bit, it might help. Even if I don't try that, your suggestion is part of this thread for others to consider.
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03-17-2016, 05:30 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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One other thing I migt try try is drilling a pilot hole from the firewall side. I have a right-angle drill adaptor from harbor freight but it is just too big to fit in the space.
I found this super-compact adaptor at Home Depot. I think it's small enough to fit on the space. We'll see.
Excellent ideas from everyone.
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03-21-2016, 08:25 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Posts: 433
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Well today we ran the cable for the ready brake elite from the firewall to the front bumper. Quite an ordeal. Drilled the first hole exactly where the instructions said and it was dead center in the middle of brake lines and the fuel lines that run along the firewall.
That hole is now being used for the emergency breakaway cable. Moving up an inch and over an inch put the new hole just inside the frame by less then 1/2". Popping the brake/gas lines out of the plastic brackets we were able to move them out of the way just enough to run the cable through the firewall. After the cable was secured we put the lines back into the plastic brackets.
A word to the wise, before installing your cable sheath run the cable through it to make sure it moves smoothly. After mounting ours I was only able to get the cable to go in about 2 feet and then it stopped. Had to remove it from the firewall, run the cable back and forth through it then re-assemble it. Now it's smooth as silk. And it lines up about 1" to the right of the brake pedal arm. With the brake pedal bracket off set to the right it is almost a straight pull.
We have ours exiting the license plate, dead center 1" from the bottom of the plate. Not sure I would want to do this again ?
__________________
Bill, Maura & Rosie the rescued "Boston Terrier"
2016 Winnebago Adventurer 38Q-26K Chassis. TST 507 x10
2014 CR-V EX-L AWD w/Blue Ox & NSA Ready Brute Elite
NRA Endowment Life Member, FMCA 455593, WIT 170814 & Mid-Ohio Winnies
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03-22-2016, 05:13 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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We have ours exiting the license plate, dead center 1" from the bottom of the plate. Not sure I would want to do this again ?[/QUOTE]
After using it for a while, I think you'll be glad you did.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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03-22-2016, 12:10 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cover Dog
Not sure I would want to do this again ?
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Amen.
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03-22-2016, 12:14 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,975
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Some of us live in states where a front license plate is mandatory. Can the cable system be located outside the license plate "zone" and still work correctly?
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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03-22-2016, 03:09 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cover Dog
We have ours exiting the license plate, dead center 1" from the bottom of the plate. Not sure I would want to do this again ?
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Mine comes out bottom of base plate with a bracket. Works very well.
I would do the install again if needed. I look at all the $$$$$ I saved and it was done right.
__________________
2004 Endura 6340D SOLD
2012 Chevy Captiva toad SOLD
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03-22-2016, 05:15 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Posts: 433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1
Some of us live in states where a front license plate is mandatory. Can the cable system be located outside the license plate "zone" and still work correctly?
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Here in Ohio were required to have a front plate. Where mine exits the plate it is below all of the numbers and letters on the plate so it's not obstructing anything.
__________________
Bill, Maura & Rosie the rescued "Boston Terrier"
2016 Winnebago Adventurer 38Q-26K Chassis. TST 507 x10
2014 CR-V EX-L AWD w/Blue Ox & NSA Ready Brute Elite
NRA Endowment Life Member, FMCA 455593, WIT 170814 & Mid-Ohio Winnies
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03-23-2016, 12:13 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjhall
I look at all the $$$$$ I saved and it was done right.
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That's true. The body shop near me wanted to charge nearly a thousand dollars to do the base plate, surge-brake and breakaway. That's when I decided I could darn well do this myself. Also, I could be 100 percent sure that the job was done by-the-book.
The base plate itself was, overall, surprisingly easy.
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03-26-2016, 01:49 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wherever the rig is parked
Posts: 8,092
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I had a local mechanic drill the hole in my 2012 CRV, actually for a Blue Ox Autostop but the cable is the same. My problem is that when I feed the cable through the hole from inside the vehicle, it goes about 3 or 4 inches and hits an obstruction. I cannot see the hole or the cable from the underside. Is the firewall in this area a double skin? It feels like they only drilled through the top skin.
__________________
Bruce Dickson 2013 Thor Challenger 37GT, 5 Star Tune, Safe-T-Plus Steering Control with Air Trim, Roadmaster front and rear Sway Bars, SuperSteer rear Track Bar, Crossfires, 2018 Honda CRV . Full timers since Jan 2012.
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03-26-2016, 02:20 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Posts: 433
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Yes, there is a double thickness firewall if you get too far to the left. If you access Ready Brake Elite on their website they state this in their instructions. Your mechanic may also have drilled a hole that is now inside the frame and that it what you are hitting.
You want the hole to be between the brake/fuel lines in the plastic retainer and the frame rail. It's only about an inch and a quarter of space. You should be able to see the drill bit come through from under the car. I followed the Ready Brake drilling instructions from their video but had to drill a second hole 1" left and 1" high from where they said to drill to be in the right spot.
__________________
Bill, Maura & Rosie the rescued "Boston Terrier"
2016 Winnebago Adventurer 38Q-26K Chassis. TST 507 x10
2014 CR-V EX-L AWD w/Blue Ox & NSA Ready Brute Elite
NRA Endowment Life Member, FMCA 455593, WIT 170814 & Mid-Ohio Winnies
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03-26-2016, 04:33 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wherever the rig is parked
Posts: 8,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cover Dog
Yes, there is a double thickness firewall if you get too far to the left. If you access Ready Brake Elite on their website they state this in their instructions. Your mechanic may also have drilled a hole that is now inside the frame and that it what you are hitting.
You want the hole to be between the brake/fuel lines in the plastic retainer and the frame rail. It's only about an inch and a quarter of space. You should be able to see the drill bit come through from under the car. I followed the Ready Brake drilling instructions from their video but had to drill a second hole 1" left and 1" high from where they said to drill to be in the right spot.
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Thanks, I will try that tomorrow.
__________________
Bruce Dickson 2013 Thor Challenger 37GT, 5 Star Tune, Safe-T-Plus Steering Control with Air Trim, Roadmaster front and rear Sway Bars, SuperSteer rear Track Bar, Crossfires, 2018 Honda CRV . Full timers since Jan 2012.
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