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Old 03-14-2016, 05:39 PM   #1
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NSA Ready Brake on a newer Honda CRV?

Hey, kids.

Has anyone here personally installed a NSA Ready Brake on a new (2012-2014) Honda CRV/AWD ?

There are issues regarding cable placement that their instructions do not account for.

readybrake | Story and PictureStory and Picture

If you have installed this specific item, let me know!

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:35 AM   #2
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Within the next week I will be running the cable through the firewall. If you have any suggestions that are better than the instructions please let me know.
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Old 03-16-2016, 01:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deprived View Post
Hey, kids.

Has anyone here personally installed a NSA Ready Brake on a new (2012-2014) Honda CRV/AWD ?

There are issues regarding cable placement that their instructions do not account for.

readybrake | Story and PictureStory and Picture

If you have installed this specific item, let me know!

Thanks in advance!
I had a local truck accessories shop install my ReadyBrake cables, breakaway cables, and baseplate on our Honda 2013 CRV. No problems!
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Old 03-16-2016, 03:55 PM   #4
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I did my own installation on a Captiva. Perhaps if you can tell us what the issues are I or someone else can help you.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
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I had a local truck accessories shop install my ReadyBrake cables, breakaway cables, and baseplate on our Honda 2013 CRV. No problems!
We had one of NSA's recommended shops in Houston install ours on a 2014 CR-V. Also, no problems.
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:41 AM   #6
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First of all, I think NSA makes a great product and I think they've done their best to make it easy to install,. The fault, if there is one, lies with Honda.

In the area NSA recommends drilling there is a rat'-nest of brake lines and brackets. Even with a small pilot hole, I managed to nick the vinyl jacket on one of the lines (although not the line itself, thank God).

Attached is a photo of the only "safe" place I managed to drill a hole for the cable. It pretty is off-center from the brake pedal which will definitely subject the cable to wear in a critical place and maybe even cause the brake system to not work as well as it should. On the plus side, there are two ready-made holes in the brake pedal where I can insert the cable.

To address this, I considered adding a heavy steel offset to the brake pedal. Before I did anything, though, I sent my pictures to NSA to get their opinion. Their recommendation was to make the cable outlet a little more flush with the floor. I don't see what difference that would make, really, but I am grateful and impressed that they replied.

In any event I'd feel a lot better about this install if I could place the cable in a better spot.

For the record I installed the tow-plate myself and it was surprisingly easy. eTrailer had a helpful video on YouTube and it shows you exactly what to do.
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:43 AM   #7
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We had one of NSA's recommended shops in Houston install ours on a 2014 CR-V. Also, no problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I had a local truck accessories shop install my ReadyBrake cables, breakaway cables, and baseplate on our Honda 2013 CRV. No problems!
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the spot they ended up placing the cable, would you?
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deprived View Post
To address this, I considered adding a heavy steel offset to the brake pedal. Before I did anything, though, I sent my pictures to NSA to get their opinion. Their recommendation was to make the cable outlet a little more flush with the floor. I don't see what difference that would make, really, but I am grateful and impressed that they replied.

In any event I'd feel a lot better about this install if I could place the cable in a better spot.

For the record I installed the tow-plate myself and it was surprisingly easy. eTrailer had a helpful video on YouTube and it shows you exactly what to do.
Can't you just drill a hole in the end (right side) of the brake pedal and route the cable through there? I seem to remember that it was an option in the installation instructions.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:51 AM   #9
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Can't you just drill a hole in the end (right side) of the brake pedal and route the cable through there? I seem to remember that it was an option in the installation instructions.
There's already a hole in the brake pedal but even using that location to attach, the cable is still offset by four inches or so. My goal is to make sure that the points between the floor-entry and the pedal attachment are as straight as possible. You can sorta see it in the picture below - the pedal is in the foreground. In the background you can see that the cable has a pretty good bend to make in order to reach the pedal.

Maybe I'm splitting hairs here or maybe I'm trying to avoid total disaster. I've never installed one of these before so I just don't know the difference.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:49 PM   #10
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I was having a hard time telling by looking at the photo how far it was off. I don't think 4 inches it too terrible. What if you changed the angle of the cable housing by placing a half washer under the right side of the housing nut and washer? I'm not sure how much that would change the 4 inch offset over the span of the cable though.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:59 PM   #11
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I made a bracket for my Captiva. It gives straight connection to the brake cable. I also hooked up the break away cable and motorcycle switch for a indicator light to the bracket. Here is a picture. It's not pretty but works very well.

Spring is for switch.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:11 PM   #12
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I wish we could see a picture of the engine side of the firewall. When I installed my cable I looked for common "landmarks" on both sides of the firewall. I used these "landmarks" to triangulate the placement of the hole. In other words I measured on the drivers side of the firewall off of some bolts and the steering column to locate the placement of the hole for the cable to line up well with the brake pedal. Then I went to the engine side of the firewall and measured off the same bolts and steering column to locate where the hole would come through if I drilled it and to determine if I would be drilling through something I didn't want to drill through. I was able to find an area that reasonably lined up well with the brake pedal and didn't interfere with anything on the engine side. Remember the cable can be bent to go around things in the engine compartment as long as you don't try to do sharp tight turns with it. Another thing I did after the installation is I bought a rubber bungee cord to hook up to my brake pedal and seat frame to make sure the pedal releases completely when towing. I don't really know if that's necessary but I feel better with it that way.
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Another thing I did after the installation is I bought a rubber bungee cord to hook up to my brake pedal and seat frame to make sure the pedal releases completely when towing. .
I think that is brilliant advice.
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:22 PM   #14
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I made a bracket for my Captiva.
Wow - that is almost exactly what I was thinking. I hope it doesn't come to this, but I've gone with plan B on more than one occasion. Glad your setup works - that's the important part.
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