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03-14-2016, 05:39 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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NSA Ready Brake on a newer Honda CRV?
Hey, kids.
Has anyone here personally installed a NSA Ready Brake on a new (2012-2014) Honda CRV/AWD ?
There are issues regarding cable placement that their instructions do not account for.
readybrake | Story and PictureStory and Picture
If you have installed this specific item, let me know!
Thanks in advance!
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03-16-2016, 06:35 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Posts: 433
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Within the next week I will be running the cable through the firewall. If you have any suggestions that are better than the instructions please let me know.
__________________
Bill, Maura & Rosie the rescued "Boston Terrier"
2016 Winnebago Adventurer 38Q-26K Chassis. TST 507 x10
2014 CR-V EX-L AWD w/Blue Ox & NSA Ready Brute Elite
NRA Endowment Life Member, FMCA 455593, WIT 170814 & Mid-Ohio Winnies
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03-16-2016, 01:43 PM
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#3
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Senior Member/RVM #90
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 54,794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deprived
Hey, kids.
Has anyone here personally installed a NSA Ready Brake on a new (2012-2014) Honda CRV/AWD ?
There are issues regarding cable placement that their instructions do not account for.
readybrake | Story and PictureStory and Picture
If you have installed this specific item, let me know!
Thanks in advance!
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I had a local truck accessories shop install my ReadyBrake cables, breakaway cables, and baseplate on our Honda 2013 CRV. No problems!
__________________
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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03-16-2016, 03:55 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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I did my own installation on a Captiva. Perhaps if you can tell us what the issues are I or someone else can help you.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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03-16-2016, 04:50 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Official iRV2 Sponsor
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 8,305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers
I had a local truck accessories shop install my ReadyBrake cables, breakaway cables, and baseplate on our Honda 2013 CRV. No problems!
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We had one of NSA's recommended shops in Houston install ours on a 2014 CR-V. Also, no problems.
__________________
Joel (AKA docj)--
RV Technology Specialist
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03-17-2016, 10:41 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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First of all, I think NSA makes a great product and I think they've done their best to make it easy to install,. The fault, if there is one, lies with Honda.
In the area NSA recommends drilling there is a rat'-nest of brake lines and brackets. Even with a small pilot hole, I managed to nick the vinyl jacket on one of the lines (although not the line itself, thank God).
Attached is a photo of the only "safe" place I managed to drill a hole for the cable. It pretty is off-center from the brake pedal which will definitely subject the cable to wear in a critical place and maybe even cause the brake system to not work as well as it should. On the plus side, there are two ready-made holes in the brake pedal where I can insert the cable.
To address this, I considered adding a heavy steel offset to the brake pedal. Before I did anything, though, I sent my pictures to NSA to get their opinion. Their recommendation was to make the cable outlet a little more flush with the floor. I don't see what difference that would make, really, but I am grateful and impressed that they replied.
In any event I'd feel a lot better about this install if I could place the cable in a better spot.
For the record I installed the tow-plate myself and it was surprisingly easy. eTrailer had a helpful video on YouTube and it shows you exactly what to do.
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03-17-2016, 10:43 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docj
We had one of NSA's recommended shops in Houston install ours on a 2014 CR-V. Also, no problems.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers
I had a local truck accessories shop install my ReadyBrake cables, breakaway cables, and baseplate on our Honda 2013 CRV. No problems!
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You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the spot they ended up placing the cable, would you?
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03-17-2016, 10:47 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deprived
To address this, I considered adding a heavy steel offset to the brake pedal. Before I did anything, though, I sent my pictures to NSA to get their opinion. Their recommendation was to make the cable outlet a little more flush with the floor. I don't see what difference that would make, really, but I am grateful and impressed that they replied.
In any event I'd feel a lot better about this install if I could place the cable in a better spot.
For the record I installed the tow-plate myself and it was surprisingly easy. eTrailer had a helpful video on YouTube and it shows you exactly what to do.
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Can't you just drill a hole in the end (right side) of the brake pedal and route the cable through there? I seem to remember that it was an option in the installation instructions.
__________________
2010 Phaeton 40QTH on a PG Chassis.
2017 Lincoln MKX.
Air Force One brake system and Blue OX Towbar.
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03-17-2016, 11:51 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69Stang
Can't you just drill a hole in the end (right side) of the brake pedal and route the cable through there? I seem to remember that it was an option in the installation instructions.
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There's already a hole in the brake pedal but even using that location to attach, the cable is still offset by four inches or so. My goal is to make sure that the points between the floor-entry and the pedal attachment are as straight as possible. You can sorta see it in the picture below - the pedal is in the foreground. In the background you can see that the cable has a pretty good bend to make in order to reach the pedal.
Maybe I'm splitting hairs here or maybe I'm trying to avoid total disaster. I've never installed one of these before so I just don't know the difference.
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03-17-2016, 12:49 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,881
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I was having a hard time telling by looking at the photo how far it was off. I don't think 4 inches it too terrible. What if you changed the angle of the cable housing by placing a half washer under the right side of the housing nut and washer? I'm not sure how much that would change the 4 inch offset over the span of the cable though.
__________________
2010 Phaeton 40QTH on a PG Chassis.
2017 Lincoln MKX.
Air Force One brake system and Blue OX Towbar.
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03-17-2016, 12:59 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,362
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I made a bracket for my Captiva. It gives straight connection to the brake cable. I also hooked up the break away cable and motorcycle switch for a indicator light to the bracket. Here is a picture. It's not pretty but works very well.
Spring is for switch.
__________________
2004 Endura 6340D SOLD
2012 Chevy Captiva toad SOLD
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03-17-2016, 04:11 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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I wish we could see a picture of the engine side of the firewall. When I installed my cable I looked for common "landmarks" on both sides of the firewall. I used these "landmarks" to triangulate the placement of the hole. In other words I measured on the drivers side of the firewall off of some bolts and the steering column to locate the placement of the hole for the cable to line up well with the brake pedal. Then I went to the engine side of the firewall and measured off the same bolts and steering column to locate where the hole would come through if I drilled it and to determine if I would be drilling through something I didn't want to drill through. I was able to find an area that reasonably lined up well with the brake pedal and didn't interfere with anything on the engine side. Remember the cable can be bent to go around things in the engine compartment as long as you don't try to do sharp tight turns with it. Another thing I did after the installation is I bought a rubber bungee cord to hook up to my brake pedal and seat frame to make sure the pedal releases completely when towing. I don't really know if that's necessary but I feel better with it that way.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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03-17-2016, 05:20 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easyrider
Another thing I did after the installation is I bought a rubber bungee cord to hook up to my brake pedal and seat frame to make sure the pedal releases completely when towing. .
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I think that is brilliant advice.
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03-17-2016, 05:22 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjhall
I made a bracket for my Captiva.
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Wow - that is almost exactly what I was thinking. I hope it doesn't come to this, but I've gone with plan B on more than one occasion. Glad your setup works - that's the important part.
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