Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Toads and Motorhome Related Towing
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-27-2013, 06:56 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
osok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 766
NSA ReadyBrake Tow System Price Increase

Just a heads up for anyone on the fence about purchasing, they have a price increase starting Dec. 1, 2013. I found out due to just placing my order so I got in under the wire. I do not know how much of an increase but their website says "Significant".

I ordered through Towbarsunlimited.
__________________

__________________
2016 Dutch Star 4369
osok is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-27-2013, 07:34 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Wizard's Avatar


 
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Home on the hill in Georgia
Posts: 2,458
Glad that I've already got mine. Price increase don't surprise me, mine was cheap compaired to some setups
__________________

__________________
Jerry & Patsy Potter, Taz & Jake Jr.
2000 Winnebago Journey
2006 Ford Explorer 4X4
Wizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 09:37 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
osok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizard View Post
Glad that I've already got mine. Price increase don't surprise me, mine was cheap compaired to some setups
Yes, they are much cheaper than other's I have found. My research found many happy users and only one unhappy. Usually the unhappy seem to dominate on most products, so maybe it will be as good as everyone says. I think I saved $500 - $1000, over other tow/brake products.

I hope if any one is on the fence about purchasing this product they see this thread soon.
__________________
2016 Dutch Star 4369
osok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 12:09 PM   #4
Senior Member/RVM #90
 
MSHappyCampers's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 26,358
Thanks for the heads-up! I love my ReadyBrute towbars with ReadyBrake!
__________________
Joe & Annette

2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
MSHappyCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 12:27 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
gthunts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 149
I am also happy with my ready brute setup. I went with the blue Ox baseplate. I ordered my entire setup from hitchsource.com. Great customer service and competitive price plus free shipping on my entire order
__________________
gthunts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 12:36 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Canton, Ohio
Posts: 2
Have been using my ready brute for 4 years and never any problem and can understand why they are raising the price, one of the best system I have found....
__________________
Shiloh
shiloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 12:45 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
FIRE UP's Avatar


 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 5,287
Mods to the Ready Brake install

Gents,
Just for those who might be interested, I've made some modifications to the install of the Ready Brake system install. Now, I've not changed any of the operation of the unit. It still works exactly like it's supposed to and intended. All I've done is change some of the components for my liking. Some have seen my mods and have adapted their install to them. They are simple and with the exception of purchasing a particular tool for doing part of the job, the changes/mods are very inexpensive.

But, one of my mods is for, (1), incredibly nicer looks at the brake arm attachment point, and (2), the cable is only connected when the toad is being towed, and not any other time which, allows for the preservation of the cable and housing for longer lasting components and, reducing un needed wear and tear.

The other mod, allows for INCREDIBLY easier "link cable" adjustment, between the toad and the coach. Below are pictures of my mods. Now, first, let me say that if you are happy with the way that R/B instructs you to install their components, then that's great, no problem. This is not mandatory, it's just something I came up with a few years ago with my first R/B install.

The primary tool that's needed for much of the mods is called a "Cable ferrule crimp tool". It looks like a set of bolt cutters only instead of cutters in the jaws, it's got multiple sized cut-outs for different size cable ferrules. You can get the tool at Home Depot for about $20.00, plus or minus. I've had that tool around now for years and have used it on a zillion little cable projects, not just the R/B application.

Basically, these are the modifications. R/B wants you to permanently attach the cable to the brake arm via two pieces of metal and nuts and bolts. I don't know how you folks think but, to me, that's one hideous looking setup. And, as state, because it's permanently attached, that cable is being actuated, in-out, in-out, in-out for each and every time you actuate the brakes on the toad when driving it.

So, not wanting for my cable to be worn out prematurely and, REALLY not liking the hideous looking attachment on the brake arm, I changed that setup. What I did was simple. I purchased a screen door roller, plastic (but you can get the metal type if you like). Then, I encompassed that roller with the cable and installed a cable ferrule and crimped it very close to that roller so the roller cannot come out of the loop of the cable.

Then, after installing the cable housing and, seeing the "projected arc" of the brake arm when being actuated, I drilled that brake arm with a drill bit that was only .004 smaller than a 1/4" pin to be inserted in that hole. I then inserted/pressed in, that 1/4" pin using a large C-clamp and a socket. The pin has a hole drilled across the tip to allow for a "Hitch pin clip" to be inserted after the cable end/roller had been placed on the pin. Done!

So, now when it comes time to hook the toad up for towing, the DW handles all the inside stuff and I do the outside stuff (tow bar, cables electrical etc. All she does is, reach below the floor mat, retrieve the cable end, place it on the pin, insert the hitch pin and, she's done. It all takes about 5 seconds.

As for the second mod, it involves the "link cable" between the toads front bumper and the actuator. R/B wants you to "loop" that cable and install two cable clamps, one on each end, to use for cable length adjustment. Well, again, that's hideous to me. So, I modified that setup. What I did, again, was simple. I installed a marine grade, polished stainless steel, turn buckle. Again, the use of that cable crimp tool is a must here. In the pictures you'll see how I did what I did.

Now, when it comes time for that link cable adjustment, it's a very simple matter of twisting that turn buckle in whatever direction needed for infinite adjustments. A tiny hitch pin in the tip of each of the threaded sections of the turn buckle prevents any of the threads from backing off. And any time adjustment is needed, it's a matter of seconds to do it. And yes, it does need some once in a while.

Anyway, it's just some ideas if anyone's interested. It was fun to do the mods and, like stated, the operation of the R/B system is exactly as it is intended to be.
Scott






__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
FIRE UP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 12:46 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Easyrider's Avatar


 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,565
Add another to the list of happy ReadyBrute Elite owners! I'm not surprised to hear of a price increase. Everything keeps costing more and as the popularity of the ReadyBrute grows, the demand will go up and the price with it. At the time we bought ours I looked on the internet for quite a while and couldn't find a less expensive way to get into flat towing with a tow bar, base plate, and brake system without buying used equipment.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
Easyrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 02:37 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
osok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Gents,
Just for those who might be interested, I've made some modifications to the install of the Ready Brake system install. Now, I've not changed any of the operation of the unit. It still works exactly like it's supposed to and intended. All I've done is change some of the components for my liking. Some have seen my mods and have adapted their install to them. They are simple and with the exception of purchasing a particular tool for doing part of the job, the changes/mods are very inexpensive.

But, one of my mods is for, (1), incredibly nicer looks at the brake arm attachment point, and (2), the cable is only connected when the toad is being towed, and not any other time which, allows for the preservation of the cable and housing for longer lasting components and, reducing un needed wear and tear.

The other mod, allows for INCREDIBLY easier "link cable" adjustment, between the toad and the coach. Below are pictures of my mods. Now, first, let me say that if you are happy with the way that R/B instructs you to install their components, then that's great, no problem. This is not mandatory, it's just something I came up with a few years ago with my first R/B install.

The primary tool that's needed for much of the mods is called a "Cable ferrule crimp tool". It looks like a set of bolt cutters only instead of cutters in the jaws, it's got multiple sized cut-outs for different size cable ferrules. You can get the tool at Home Depot for about $20.00, plus or minus. I've had that tool around now for years and have used it on a zillion little cable projects, not just the R/B application.

Basically, these are the modifications. R/B wants you to permanently attach the cable to the brake arm via two pieces of metal and nuts and bolts. I don't know how you folks think but, to me, that's one hideous looking setup. And, as state, because it's permanently attached, that cable is being actuated, in-out, in-out, in-out for each and every time you actuate the brakes on the toad when driving it.

So, not wanting for my cable to be worn out prematurely and, REALLY not liking the hideous looking attachment on the brake arm, I changed that setup. What I did was simple. I purchased a screen door roller, plastic (but you can get the metal type if you like). Then, I encompassed that roller with the cable and installed a cable ferrule and crimped it very close to that roller so the roller cannot come out of the loop of the cable.

Then, after installing the cable housing and, seeing the "projected arc" of the brake arm when being actuated, I drilled that brake arm with a drill bit that was only .004 smaller than a 1/4" pin to be inserted in that hole. I then inserted/pressed in, that 1/4" pin using a large C-clamp and a socket. The pin has a hole drilled across the tip to allow for a "Hitch pin clip" to be inserted after the cable end/roller had been placed on the pin. Done!

So, now when it comes time to hook the toad up for towing, the DW handles all the inside stuff and I do the outside stuff (tow bar, cables electrical etc. All she does is, reach below the floor mat, retrieve the cable end, place it on the pin, insert the hitch pin and, she's done. It all takes about 5 seconds.

As for the second mod, it involves the "link cable" between the toads front bumper and the actuator. R/B wants you to "loop" that cable and install two cable clamps, one on each end, to use for cable length adjustment. Well, again, that's hideous to me. So, I modified that setup. What I did, again, was simple. I installed a marine grade, polished stainless steel, turn buckle. Again, the use of that cable crimp tool is a must here. In the pictures you'll see how I did what I did.

Now, when it comes time for that link cable adjustment, it's a very simple matter of twisting that turn buckle in whatever direction needed for infinite adjustments. A tiny hitch pin in the tip of each of the threaded sections of the turn buckle prevents any of the threads from backing off. And any time adjustment is needed, it's a matter of seconds to do it. And yes, it does need some once in a while.

Anyway, it's just some ideas if anyone's interested. It was fun to do the mods and, like stated, the operation of the R/B system is exactly as it is intended to be.
Scott






Some interesting adjustments to installation. I will certainly consider your changes upon my install. I like the change with the brake arm/cable attachment on toad.
__________________
2016 Dutch Star 4369
osok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 03:40 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
FIRE UP's Avatar


 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 5,287
osok,
There's a few ways of altering the cable install at the brake arm. My way of drilling the hole a couple of thousandths smaller so I could "press" that pin in, was more or less sort of "anal" in its origin. A simpler way would be to purchase a "full thread", 1 1/2" 1/4-20 bolt, and drill the arm and install the bolt. Secure it to the brake arm with a nut.

Then, all that's needed is the screen door roller, a cable ferrule crimp tool and, you're home free. I pressed that pin in there because I had the tools to do so and, it's kind of a challenge to me for stuff like that. Now, I don't have a picture of just the pin, without the cable hooked to it but, in reality, that pin is almost invisible without the cable hooked to it. And, again, the nice part of it is, that cable simply sits, under the mat, until it's called for to be hooked up to the brake arm.
Scott
__________________

__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
FIRE UP is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
brake



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.