Older Apollo brakes sys vs. new toad problem
While having a Blue Ox base plate installed in my newer toad, (2011 ford explorer), I learned another limitation of hanging on to the older Apollo brake system. I asked the tech to provide a two foot wire from the cold side of my Fords brake switch which he happily agreed to do. After getting into a space way too small for me with his tester and wire splice he says, “it’s not going to work”. Seems that this fancy Ford uses three hot wires from some chip or computer that are merely grounded by the brake switch instead of passing 12 volts through the switch. (The purpose of the wire was to activate my remote “brake application transmitter/receiver unit which has served me well). Given some previous problems with the Apollo I’m not going to chance using it without some type of warning that it has activated.
I really want the SMI Air Force One but thought I could get out of dodge quicker by putting up with the Apollo system for a month or so as we have a tight time zone between taking delivery of coach and our first camping reservation. So now, I either Rube Goldberg another switch to the brake pedal or tap into the brake light circuit versus the pedal actuation switch. If I do the latter the warning will come on every time I hit the brakes or turn signal side that I tap into. Yes, I know, just put in the SMI
2012 Phaeton 40 QBH, 2011 Ford Explorer & 2013 Jeep Wrangler Toads via BlueOx, TPMS by TTS, Delta Force toad brake system.