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Old 07-28-2013, 08:06 PM   #1
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Preparing a 1985 CJ7 for a 5,500 trip

Any advise on preparing a 1985 CJ7 for a long tow? I will repack the bearing, just wondering if any has additional advise on preparing the Jeep for a long tow.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:25 PM   #2
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automatic or stick? Flat towing 4 down? I would change the front and rear Diff fluids, and drop the drivelines, inspect front wheel bearings, inspect tires
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:00 AM   #3
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Any advise on preparing a 1985 CJ7 for a long tow? I will repack the bearing, just wondering if any has additional advise on preparing the Jeep for a long tow.
La26,
Regardless of the pre-trip maintenance the '85 CJs model 300 transfer case was really not designed for long distance flat towing. Yes, it can be flat towed but, the lubrication process inside that transfer case is not all that good when being flat towed. It's good when being driven but, not flat towed. A tad bit of advice here, stop every so often and start up the jeep, run it though the gears etc. and then head back out on the road. You'll give that transfer case some extra life that way. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:51 AM   #4
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I would drop both drive shafts, change diff fluids front and rear. This way you have no worries about the tranny or tranfer case. Unless of course you will be using the jeep along the trip then this would be a hassle
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:25 PM   #5
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I would drop both drive shafts, change diff fluids front and rear. This way you have no worries about the tranny or tranfer case. Unless of course you will be using the jeep along the trip then this would be a hassle
Chief,
There's really no need to drop the shafts on his jeep for towing. The model 300 transfer case is a cast iron, gear drive unit and can survive the trip just fine if, he stops every so often and just starts the jeep and runs it through some gears. There's modifications one can do to the 300 if, they plan on towing it for the rest of its life but, it's a semi-complicated process of welding on fins on one of the gears in there to "splash" oil on things as it's turning during towing procedures.

But, there's enough lube on things to handle short, around a 100-200 miles sections without worrying. Then, when you stop to take a break in driving or, get fuel, just go back and start up the jeep and leave the transfer case in neutral and put the jeep in gear and let it spin some of those input gears in the transfer case for a short bit. He'll be fine.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:37 AM   #6
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Towing 1985 cj7

Thanks for the advise guys. I will be using the Jeep all along the way over the 40 days we will be out so I will be running it through the gears plenty, thanks for that tip. All fluids are checked and topped up. Now if I could just get the RV back from the shop.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:27 PM   #7
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I have a 84 CJ-7 that I have flat towed since 1992. If you have a Dana 300 transfer case your MUST disconnect the rear drive shaft. Off road mag did a write up back in early 90"s on how to modify a Dana 300 so you would not burn up the rear output bearing. Unless the transfer case if in gear and moving (under engine power) the rear bearing will NOT get any of the case fluids to the bearing when being towed.

Some people claim that you can stop every 300 miles and start up the engine and drive the Jeep around to get lubrication to the rear bearing. If you dont mind doing that go and try it.

I myself drop the drive shaft off the rear end and tie it up under the frame. When I get to my destination I unhook from the motorhome and lock the front hubs and put in 4 X 4 and drive it to a location where I can hook the drive shaft back up.

I tow my CJ-7 with 33" all over the place and dont mind crawling under the Jeep with a small wrench to hook the drive shaft up. Only takes me about 10 minutes to do it (but I have practice on my side)

Make sure you use tape to wrap around the U joint so the caps dont come off.

The problem with not disconnecting the drive shaft is you dont know when your bearing will fail, 100, 200, 300, 400 miles??? Why take the chance.

Good luck with what ever you decide.

Oh yea forgot 1 other thing that might be useful to you. Leave the steering wheel unlocked so the wheels can follow a turn, if you dont then your front tires will be gone in a hurry.

Another thing I found was lights hook up. I have a 4 wire light plug on the back of my CJ for when I tow. I made a extension that I could hook up to my motor home trailer light plug. This will opereate your brake and running lights but the turn signals will not work unless you have your turn signal lever down. I take a bundge cord and tie the lever down (left turn signals). This will eliminate the feedback issues with your turn signals and you signal lights will operate normaly with your motorhome.

Larry Barnes
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:00 PM   #8
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I smoked a bearing in a 300 tcase flat towing my 85 CJ7. It needs to be modified IMHO. I was on my my second 250 mile trip.

Also another major concern is the AMC20 rear axle shafts. Do you have a rare or upgraded rear axle? If not educate yourself on the AMC rear axle. The hubs bolt on and are prone to failure. Failure means the tire, wheel, and drum come off in transit.
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:32 PM   #9
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Yes, I know all about the AMC 20 rear axles.

I smoked mine after my 355 SBC engine and 33" tire upgrade. I think it was only about 50 miles when they stripped out.

I replaced with Mosser solid axles and a Auburn limited slip carrier and diff.

No problems after 100k on the rebuilt rear end.

Larry
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:10 PM   #10
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I upgraded to the warn locking hub kit after mine almost killed my whole family. It seems they are no longer available, but the locking hubs in the rear negated the need to drop the rear shaft.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:33 PM   #11
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Dont really want to highjack this thread, but what kind of strength do those have?

My SBC puts out 375Hp and always was afraid that I would blow out the couplings.

Larry
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:19 PM   #12
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Thanks, I disconnected the rear, 4 bolts 1/2" wrench very easy. I have towed several times up to 750 miles without unhooking and didn't have a problem but on a 6,600 mile trip I am concerned. I appreciate your advise.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:58 PM   #13
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Better safe than sorry

Have a safe trip and have fun.

Larry
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:17 PM   #14
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Dont really want to highjack this thread, but what kind of strength do those have?

My SBC puts out 375Hp and always was afraid that I would blow out the couplings.

Larry
Its really just the upgrade parts from the Warn D30 covnersion kit with extra parts to make it all fit on the rear. It lived through my 300 HP AMC engine with a Detroit soft locker, but a wild guess is that its weaker than the Mosser setup with more moving parts.

The D300 flinger upgrade is really no harder than the rear axle work if the driveshaft is an annoyance.

Have you seen this?
Here's why you shouldn't flat tow a dana 300 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

The first page is relevant, not the impending argument.
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