Community Forums

Cat320 · 04-07-2018, 08:14 AM

Re the OP's subject of "Pushing-Limits." When RVing, and considering weights, tow ratings, various capacities, I would not 'push' any limit. Those limits are put there by the engineers that design these things and are there for good reasons.

grindstone01 · 04-07-2018, 08:29 AM

As a retired auto engineer, design limits have a safety factor designed into the system. A design limit is the safe point for normal operations while maintaining passenger comfort. If you need to run over the design limit, then just take extra precautions, like drive slower, check your load every say 50 miles, inspect your hitch frame and check the hitch bolt torques are good. Also keep a eye on your engine gages and check your fluids every gas up. Just use common sense and also have a backup plan, like unhitch and drive solo if things don't work out.
As far as weight limits in USA, they only apply to commercial hauling and not private vehicles. Now if the private vehicle is visually unsafely overloaded, like swerving, sagging axle, then you could get a unsafe vehicle violation, but that is extreme.
Some people are risk takers and some are not, so it's really your decision.

Chargerman · 04-07-2018, 08:41 AM

I would not exceed the limits. Despite folks telling you to go easy and you point that it’s a one time drive, it’s not worth the risk. If it fails it will be ugly and very costly. Why not fly out and alleviate the stress and the worry. I sure wouldn’t want to be constantly looking in the camera or rear view all the way home hoping everything was all right. One hard panic stop or swerve could be all it takes to ruin your day along with your new rig and vehicle in tow.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 04-07-2018, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sylster

so....brochure on my RV says GVRW of 14,500lbs...I assume that is DRY weight. Add gear, family, etc....probably have about 1800lbs extra with NO WATER... low estimate.

Ford fleet brochure says:
E-450 Super Duty Stripped
Chassis GCWRs 6.8L V10 = 20,000 lbs
that would max out my trailer weight @ 3,700lbs....I'd be WAY over...

WOW, when you start doing the math...it's starting to look dangerous.

Is my math right?

S.

Not quite correct.

The GVWR is the rating for the coach, fully-loaded. If you have not weighed your coach, you do not know the actual GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight).

If you assume your coach is loaded to its rating (that is GVW = GVWR), then

GCWR - GVWR = 20,000 - 14,500 = 5,500 pounds

Now, the brochure I found online (for a 2008 Conquest) says nothing about the hitch rating for the Ford or Workhorse-based coaches, such as yours. To find out the rating for your hitch, look in these places:

1) A safety label inside the coach
2) On the hitch
3) The owner's manual

Hopefully, this rating is in all three locations, and they agree.

Notes:

1) The lowest rating of any listed is the limiting rating, and
2) The coach manufacturer will sometimes rate the coach at a lower tow rating than the hitch itself. If in doubt about the tow hitch rating, call the coach manufacturer.

The amount you can tow without exceeding the rating for your coach is the lesser of:

1) Tow hitch rating
2) GCWR - GVW

I'm guessing that in your case that comes out to 5,000 pounds.

Now, my opinions:

1) The hitch shown in the picture you posted looks like a hitch with a rating of 5,000 pounds or less
2) I would not exceed the hitch rating.

If you read enough posts like yours, you will find people who do tow over their ratings, either with or without modifications. Some of those people know more than others about the risks they are taking, some less. If you fall into the latter category, I'd recommend against towing beyond your ratings.

Mich F · 04-07-2018, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sylster

so....brochure on my RV says GVRW of 14,500lbs...I assume that is DRY weight. Add gear, family, etc....probably have about 1800lbs extra with NO WATER... low estimate.

Ford fleet brochure says:
E-450 Super Duty Stripped
Chassis GCWRs 6.8L V10 = 20,000 lbs
that would max out my trailer weight @ 3,700lbs....I'd be WAY over...

WOW, when you start doing the math...it's starting to look dangerous.

Is my math right?

S.

No, your math is wrong, your 18,000# would put you 3,500# over your 14,500# GVWR. The GVWR is the unloaded vehicle plus you and everyone else and everything in the RV.

Oops, didn't realize there was a page 2, when I posted.

Sweetbriar · 04-07-2018, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chargerman

I would not exceed the limits. Despite folks telling you to go easy and you point that it’s a one time drive, it’s not worth the risk. If it fails it will be ugly and very costly. Why not fly out and alleviate the stress and the worry. I sure wouldn’t want to be constantly looking in the camera or rear view all the way home hoping everything was all right. One hard panic stop or swerve could be all it takes to ruin your day along with your new rig and vehicle in tow.

This is what I would do.

I might consider towing the new to me car on a trailer a 50 miles with the coach, maybe. 3300 miles thru BC into south western Yukon not a chance. Fly out then drive it home. The rental for the U-Haul might be more than air fare and fuel to drive it home. Had to trailer my CR-V home last summer due to an accident a day from home. One way, one day rental, taxes and other fees was $208.44.

sylster · 04-07-2018, 06:24 PM

OK...I appreciate the advice/opinions but...

No...not flying to get the car and drive back....already flying there and doing the mileage to get the RV and to come home with it...would have to go back and forth....and it's not 100 miles....it's over 3300miles. making me drive over 6600miles....plus all the costs, food, fuel, etc....that is not an option.

I'm starting to think that one of us will drive the RV, the other one the car...and drive separately on the way back.

other option....don't get that car and look at something that can be dolly towed....not optimal...but always an option (just have to convince the wife ....easier said than done lol)

The more I read here and online....too much to risk it. maybe if it was 200 miles....but not cross country like that....look at map...puts it in to perspective LOL

That's why I come here....for all you opinionated people...LOVE IT LOL....people tell it like it is.....thanks

S.

triplewide · 04-08-2018, 02:35 AM

Good decision!

Hit_the_Rhod · 04-08-2018, 06:27 AM

Have you priced what it would cost for a professional car hauling service (loaded on a semi with 8 - 10 other vehicles would cost? Probably not too much more than renting the U-haul trailer! Also, if purchasing from a dealership, negotiate the shipment in with the vehicle purchase, they ship cars all the time!

Winemaker2 · 04-08-2018, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit_the_Rhod

Have you priced what it would cost for a professional car hauling service (loaded on a semi with 8 - 10 other vehicles would cost? Probably not too much more than renting the U-haul trailer! Also, if purchasing from a dealership, negotiate the shipment in with the vehicle purchase, they ship cars all the time!

Sold a CRV toad and owner had it shipped.
NY to Dallas Tx was around $ 800.
Worth a check if intent on this car.

Sweetbriar · 04-08-2018, 09:13 AM

If the BMW is really worth the effort how hard would it be to disconnect the drive shaft at the rear differential once it is on a dolly? A dolly weights in around 500 lbs which might get you well under the coach limits.

sylster · 04-08-2018, 08:28 PM

Shipping a car to the Yukon is absurdly expensive. That would not be cost effective.

I think we have decided to drop the Bimmer and look at a front wheel drive car.. Wife likes wagons, so we are looking at those...probably a used Passat or something....those can be dolly towed

Safer...just not a BWM :( Will own one eventually.

S.