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Old 10-28-2015, 12:19 PM   #15
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The way the straps are pictured, you're doin' it wrong. The pin should be pulled, the car wheels up to the stops, and most importantly the straps along the treads of the front wheels. The way yours are pictured, nothing prevents the car from moving forward except the bump stop.
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Old 10-28-2015, 06:24 PM   #16
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Gee.. I towed for like 10 years and NEVER bought new tow straps....

But then I tow 4 down
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
Hi Tony,

So if the tire is compressed against the front tire stop, then where does the movement occur, and in which direction.
I guess two things could happen, somehow the tire raises, and the strap ends up under the tire, or the tire moves (in what direction) and ends up on top of the tire.


I just re-read your post. So when you say the strap gets caught under the tire, do you mean some part of the strap that was under tension and going around the tire, or do you mean some of the extra tail which is loose.


From what I see, when the straps are tight, they are stretched directly from the attachment points to the top of the tire. It looks like it would take a lot of slack to allow the tensioned strap to end up under the tire because the tight strap is too short.

Lets not let a tow dolly out smart us

Regards,
Dan
If I ratchet the tire down real tight towards the front bump stop and the tire is compressed, when making lets say a left turn, the passenger side of the car rides up the front bumpstop to the top and when straightening out it rolls back into cradle. 1st I thought ok, its to tight so I would ratchet it down tight but not as tight and the same thing happens. In the end behind the ratchet assembly that part of the strap goes under the tire, the back end part of what they call the web cage goes into the inside of the wheel. The pic I put on here was after I had stopped and readjusted it as I didn't have far to go but was about to go under the tire and towards the inner wheel well as per usual.
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Gee.. I towed for like 10 years and NEVER bought new tow straps....

But then I tow 4 down
Yeah I have towed cars for over 35 years and never have had this issue on any dolly I have used.
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:48 PM   #19
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The way the straps are pictured, you're doin' it wrong. The pin should be pulled, the car wheels up to the stops, and most importantly the straps along the treads of the front wheels. The way yours are pictured, nothing prevents the car from moving forward except the bump stop.
If you look at the straps in the picture with the car, the straps have the basket part towards the back of the car, then the other side of the strap ( not pictured) is behind the wheel which goes through the buckler ( pictured) and the bottom of front tires, You can't with these straps wrap it around the front part of top tire as is not the set up for these straps, The part that goes through the ratchet is in and is only way to ratchet the tire tight. These straps I have tried every way possible to get the snugest fit and thats as close as it gets. If you view the 1st pic with the trailer you will see another type of strap. Its the type that has the long flat strap that goes outside of tire and has a strap that goes through it which goes to back side of tire and through a steal ring which the lead of that strap goes through ratchet. Same thing occurs. I can take pics of the all the different types of straps that have been used since I bought this dolly and you will see they are all different and in the end had to be cut off.
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by vman60 View Post
If I ratchet the tire down real tight towards the front bump stop and the tire is compressed, when making lets say a left turn, the passenger side of the car rides up the front bumpstop to the top and when straightening out it rolls back into cradle. 1st I thought ok, its to tight so I would ratchet it down tight but not as tight and the same thing happens. In the end behind the ratchet assembly that part of the strap goes under the tire, the back end part of what they call the web cage goes into the inside of the wheel. The pic I put on here was after I had stopped and readjusted it as I didn't have far to go but was about to go under the tire and towards the inner wheel well as per usual.
If everything is right, the trays and the wheels should act as one.
However, a key point is that the dolly wheels need to swivel easily when you have the steering lock pin removed.
You also have a shock on the dolly to dampen the steering action.
I now wonder if the shock is seized, or the swivel bearings are bad.

How difficult is it for you to rotate (swivel) the tray assembly to check the shock and swivel bearings. Best to do it when loaded, but you could first try with the dolly empty.

Final Question.....has this dolly EVER worked properly for you????

Regards,
Dan
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:56 PM   #21
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Why is the tie rod bent??

I also looked at your third picture, and it looks like the left (PS) tie rod is bent. Not sure that there is a reason the manufacturer would have built it that way. Just curious....

Dan
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:06 PM   #22
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If the pin is pulled to allow the top tray to pivot, then the car is secured against the front stop and strapped down tightly, the tow dolly and car have become a single unit, the pivot tray now provides the 'bending' motion for going around corners, along with the pivot on the hitch ball. Something I didn't see mentioned, are you locking the steering wheel in the straight ahead position? If no steering lock, you are strapping the steering wheel securely to prevent turning? If the steering isn't immobilized, That allows another pivot point and it will create serious issues since the dolly and car are now pulling at each other.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
If everything is right, the trays and the wheels should act as one.
However, a key point is that the dolly wheels need to swivel easily when you have the steering lock pin removed.
You also have a shock on the dolly to dampen the steering action.
I now wonder if the shock is seized, or the swivel bearings are bad.

How difficult is it for you to rotate (swivel) the tray assembly to check the shock and swivel bearings. Best to do it when loaded, but you could first try with the dolly empty.

Final Question.....has this dolly EVER worked properly for you????

Regards,
Dan
Dolly wheels turn with ease, the tray the car sits on does not swivel just the wheels and they turn very easy as I can move a tire by hand with pressure. No it has not. I have been to cleveland, findly and just this past weekend to columbus ohio picking up cars that I customize and always same problem.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:27 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
If the pin is pulled to allow the top tray to pivot, then the car is secured against the front stop and strapped down tightly, the tow dolly and car have become a single unit, the pivot tray now provides the 'bending' motion for going around corners, along with the pivot on the hitch ball. Something I didn't see mentioned, are you locking the steering wheel in the straight ahead position? If no steering lock, you are strapping the steering wheel securely to prevent turning? If the steering isn't immobilized, That allows another pivot point and it will create serious issues since the dolly and car are now pulling at each other.
Pin is pulled there is no pivot tray just the wheels turn, steering wheel always locked.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:29 PM   #25
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I also looked at your third picture, and it looks like the left (PS) tie rod is bent. Not sure that there is a reason the manufacturer would have built it that way. Just curious....

Dan
I sent the demco tech guy these pics along with new pics of every inch of this Dolly and seems to think its fine. I thought so as well but in his opinion the dolly is fine.
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:53 PM   #26
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Problem is not the Dolly, it's the way the straps are being used. Looking at your pictures again it looks to me that the straps are on backwards. There should only be one strap down the front center of the tire and wrapped arounded the drum of the front ratchet. The two hooks on the strap are hooked around the bar at rear of tire, one hook on each side of tire. The center of the basket needs to be closer to the top center of the tire. If strap hooks are hooked on the bar at rear of tire correctly and won't let the basket to move higher, the strap is the wrong one.
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Old 10-29-2015, 01:46 AM   #27
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I was told these straps in this picture were for up to 17 inch tires. the tires on the cars I pull are 15 and 16 inch tires. As I stated earlier that pic is when I stopped to adjust as I didn't have but a few miles to go. I will buy the demco straps as they recommended and if it does the same thing I will drive the trailer up to their head quarters and they can keep it.
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Old 10-29-2015, 01:55 AM   #28
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I am just glad I have not used this to tow anything behind my coach. I have other trailers for that.. I bought this because it was cheap and cheaper on gas for picking up cars. I might just buy a roll back.
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