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Old 03-08-2012, 02:53 PM   #1
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Ready Brake and too many links in the chain?

I am setting up my new to me 38' Mountain Aire to tow an '01 Tracker at 3,000 lbs.
I am putting on a 6" drop receiver bar. The height difference between the motorhome receiver and the base plate (Blue Ox) is 8", but I understand it is OK to be off by 2" and I want to minimize the chances of dragging on inclines, so I'm only dropping 6".
I have a Blue Ox Aventa II tow bar, but I need to buy the Ready Brake yet.
So I will put the Ready Brake RB-4000 unit between the drop receiver and the tow bar.
That's 3 joints in the chain. I plan to put on quiet clamps at the motorhome receiver and between the drop receiver and the Ready Brake to minimize all of the movement.
Has anybody else set up this way? Is that too many pieces in the chain?
I could get a Ready Brake tow bar to eliminate the one middle piece, but I'd rather not buy more than I have to and the Aventa II tow bar is fine for this application.
Thanks.
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:57 PM   #2
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I would not like that many joints in the tow system, but there are probably folks that have a similar set-up. I also don't like it combined with a drop receiver, because that puts a lot of torque on the mounts. I think I would sell the Aventa (great tow bar!) and get the Ready Brute with the built in brake. Or keep the Aventa and use a different brand of brake.
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:57 PM   #3
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Jerry--you might contact Ready Brake (NSA) to see what they recommend. I have seen several similar towing setups, so I don't think the three-piece "chain" is unusual. Lots of us need that hitch drop, and the Ready Brake is made to go onto the tow bar...so it seems like a reasonable solution IMO. We needed the 8" drop on our Bounder, but we bought the ReadyBrute with the brake incorporated in the towbar.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
I would not like that many joints in the tow system, but there are probably folks that have a similar set-up. I also don't like it combined with a drop receiver, because that puts a lot of torque on the mounts. I think I would sell the Aventa (great tow bar!) and get the Ready Brute with the built in brake. Or keep the Aventa and use a different brand of brake.

Why would the torque load be any higher on the connection with the ready brake than with a solid connection in the same plain? If the brakes are being applied it would actually reduce the torque lever on the drop section. It would reduce the hitch weight rating, but the weight is not that high anyway and it should have little effect an the tow rating.

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Old 03-09-2012, 09:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainJerry View Post
I am setting up my new to me 38' Mountain Aire to tow an '01 Tracker at 3,000 lbs.
I am putting on a 6" drop receiver bar. The height difference between the motorhome receiver and the base plate (Blue Ox) is 8", but I understand it is OK to be off by 2" and I want to minimize the chances of dragging on inclines, so I'm only dropping 6".
I have a Blue Ox Aventa II tow bar, but I need to buy the Ready Brake yet.
So I will put the Ready Brake RB-4000 unit between the drop receiver and the tow bar.
That's 3 joints in the chain. I plan to put on quiet clamps at the motorhome receiver and between the drop receiver and the Ready Brake to minimize all of the movement.
Has anybody else set up this way? Is that too many pieces in the chain?
I could get a Ready Brake tow bar to eliminate the one middle piece, but I'd rather not buy more than I have to and the Aventa II tow bar is fine for this application.
Thanks.
Same setup and it's working fine. I did install a Grade 5 bolt w/lock nut where the tow bar plugs into the Ready Brake adapter, then tightened to the point where there was no movement between them. 10,000 miles or so now, no issues. It works great.

Oh, one other thing. I did drill a new hole for the pin (bolt) going through the tow bar - to minimize the over all length as much as I could. Shortened it by 4-5" or so? That's just me though. You wouldn't necessarily have to do that.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:37 PM   #6
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I had the same problem on my Bounder.I welded another tube under MH hitch,lowered it 5".It is almost level.The brake actuating going down hill is not a problem.The first 2000 mi trip it only lighted the indicator light 5 or 6 times.On a normal slow stop the toad brakes do not engage.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:42 PM   #7
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I have an 8" drop and I use the Ready Brake and a Blue Ox tow bar. The Ready Brake works great and I also shortened up the tow bar by about 4". Used it for a year before shortening the tow bar without problems. I'm towing a Jeep Wrangler Sport at about 3400lbs, and so far I have no complaints with this setup.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:18 AM   #8
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Thanks for your replies

Thanks to all of you for your responses, especially those of you that have run the same setup and report no problems. I was concerned with the amount of free play that comes into the system with that many connections. Not so much when stopping, but on turns. With the added length, I thought it might add more torque on the base plate. Some of the same torque on panic stops too with the rear of the coach raising and the front of the toad diving.

I did check with Ready Brake and as expected they said it would be better with their tow bar which has the Ready Brake in it, thereby eliminating one component in what I plan to do. However, they didn't say that it would be unsafe or a problem with the 3 components I will be using. I also sent an email to Vince who sells Ready Brake on his internet site and he said there should not be a problem.

So I think I will go ahead with it as planned and shorten the sections any way I can by drilling new holes for the pins.

Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
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So I think I will go ahead with it as planned and shorten the sections any way I can by drilling new holes for the pins.
Thanks.
If you don't want to do the drilling / cutting of the hitch connector, . . . There is a 4 inch shorter (than standard) hitch connector available from Blue Ox. There is a parts list in the back owners manual, the hitch connectors are listed as optional parts. I have the tools to take the bar apart but it is a bit of a pain. If you don't want to fight with the D&A of the bar yourself, there should be a RV service facility authorized to service the Blue Ox tow bars.

Here is a link to the Blue Ox Aventa II owners manual if you don't want to dig yours out.
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainJerry View Post
Thanks to all of you for your responses, especially those of you that have run the same setup and report no problems. I was concerned with the amount of free play that comes into the system with that many connections. Not so much when stopping, but on turns. With the added length, I thought it might add more torque on the base plate. Some of the same torque on panic stops too with the rear of the coach raising and the front of the toad diving.

I did check with Ready Brake and as expected they said it would be better with their tow bar which has the Ready Brake in it, thereby eliminating one component in what I plan to do. However, they didn't say that it would be unsafe or a problem with the 3 components I will be using. I also sent an email to Vince who sells Ready Brake on his internet site and he said there should not be a problem.

So I think I will go ahead with it as planned and shorten the sections any way I can by drilling new holes for the pins.

Thanks.
As an aside to your post, we purchased all of our towing equipment from Vince (TowBarsUnlimited.com) and he was the absolute BEST to deal with. His prices are great, free shipping and no sales tax. Plus, he's great at communicating if the customer has questions, and his shipping is FAST. (And no, I don't work for Vince...haha.) I just like to mention when I'm happy with service I have received.
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