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Old 06-24-2013, 11:40 PM   #1
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Ready brake break away and Brake cable

I just ordered the break away system and a new brake cable to use with my recently purchased used RB elite towbar. I did the roadmaster baseplate install myself but as far as the braking system goes, I'll admit I'm a little intimidated and the instructions are a little confusing. Anyone who has self installed these please feel free to drop some pearls of wisdom or anyone know of an Atlanta area installer that has installed ready brake products in case I go that route. Thanks
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:48 AM   #2
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Sorry you're having trouble with that ReadyBrake! I didn't install mine myself because it is difficult to do without the vehicle being on a lift so you can get under there to route the cable and find a place to drill through the firewall behind the brake pedal.

Pull the steel cable out of the sheath before routing the sheath through the engine compartment. The sheath that the actual cable runs through has a fitting on one end that goes through the firewall with a nut on the other side to secure it. You can route it to the front any way you can as long as you avoid sharp turns and keep away from anything that gets hot so you don't melt the sheath. Once you get to the front you have a white plastic fitting that you mount securely to a bracket or anything that will be accessible from the front of the vehicle. I drilled a hole in the bracket holding the electrical hookup. Then you cut off the cable sheath and the end attaches to the white plastic fitting. BE CAREFUL not to cut the sheath too short! One end of the steel cable has the hookup look already on it. That's the end that sticks out the front to attach the short cable from the ReadyBrake. Once your sheath is secure on both ends you run the steel cable through the sheath from the front back through the firewall behind the brake pedal. There is a metal clamp that comes with the kit to attach to the brake pedal. I tried to use that but with the ReadyBrake cable AND the breakaway cable with their u-bolts, I had trouble with them hanging and keeping my brake pedal pulled in! That's BAD! I elected to just drill a hole in the brake pedal large enough for the two cables to go through and secured them with u-bolts without using the metal bracket. The last thing is to adjust the cable so there is very little slack and it is not pulling on the brake pedal, then tighten the u-bolts securely.

Did you have any questions about installing the breakaway cable?

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:43 PM   #3
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That is exactly what I was hoping to hear. I decided to put a call in to NSA today and between that conversation and your reply, Ive decided to tackle it. I guess I was confused on the bend radius that the brake cable could accept and the adjustment needed for correct application. Maybe over thinking into a state of fear. Thanks!
And yes, could you describe the breakaway system?
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:22 AM   #4
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I think there are a number of ways to adapt the installation.

ReadyBrute Towbar/Brake System
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:38 PM   #5
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I used the stock cable setup provided... easy install. May look cheesy, but you can't really see it. The install was actually pretty easy but a time consuming...





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Old 06-29-2013, 05:19 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help. I decided to try and tackle both installs today. Everything went smooth until test run for the brakes. Had DW stand at driveway and watch as I went down the street. Used my truck since DP is in another state. Toads light never came on. I got up to about 30 mph then braked. Got back and with my foot I applied pressure gradually until the light came on. Pedal travelled between 1/2-1" before light came on. I followed the packed directions closely. Should I look into making my pedal more [sensitive] or pull the cable tighter and tighten clamps? Or will any of this matter being that I will be using dp's lighting eventually
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:35 PM   #7
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I think your problem is not the cable from the pedal to the snap connection at the bumper, but the cable from the Ready-Brake lever arm to that snap connection at the front of the toad. Test it with a slightly shorter length adjustment. Too tight, of course, results in dragging the toad brakes. May take a few test runs to get the best length adjustment. Also be cautious about the potential for the cable to hang up on the tow bars when in a turn.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:02 PM   #8
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I tried that. To the point that it was juuuussssttt about pulling the pedal, just as directions stated. Ill give it another crack tomorrow
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:18 PM   #9
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What MoonRover said, plus this:
When I installed mine I pumped the brakes a few times (engine off) before adjusting the cable. Assuming you have power assisted brakes, it's best to release the pressure (vacuum? not sure which) before adjusting the cable, as when you're towing, after a few stops, the brakes will not be using the power assist anyway.
Also, be aware that adjustable cable will probably stretch the first few times and you will need to readjust it. Mine did anyway.
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:09 AM   #10
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Here is a good thread on setting the cable length.
ReadyBrute braking problems--Follow-up
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:17 PM   #11
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lit View Post
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I will try again.
ReadyBrute braking problems--Follow-up
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:41 AM   #13
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Gents,
I installed a Ready Brake system back several years ago when they first came out. I really liked the operation of the system. I've been a fabricator type my whole life and when I saw how they wanted you to hook that up to the brake pedal and, also the method of adjustment in the link cable between the toad and the RV, I couldn't stop laughing. I mean, ARE YOU KIDDING ME???

Well, their operation in their braking system is great but, their hookup and attachment system SUCKS. So, I decided to alter it to my liking. Now, some of you might agree with what I did and some not, no biggie, that's why we live in America, so we can disagree without being put in prison. Anyway, most of you most likely don't care if that main cable that R/B wants you to "Permanently Bolt" to the brake pedal is constantly moving back and forth each and every time you apply the brakes while driving your toad.

Well, that's certainly up to you. It's your toad, set it up the way you like it. But on mine, I was not going to, 1st, have that hideous looking clamp abortion on my brake pedal and, 2, to have that cable system actuate every time we drove the toad, when it didn't need to be, WAS NOT GOING TO HAPPEN! So, the first mod I made to their system was create two, small pieces of Aluminum and attached them to my brake pedal arm. Yes, it's on there permanently but, it looks a zillion times better than their system.

Then, after setting up the cable housing between the fire wall and the front bumper, I created my own end on the cable using a tiny, 1" diameter pulley with the cable wrapped around it tightly and a swage crimped on the end. Now, when it came time to hook up for towing the toad, the dear wife reached under the floor mat, picked up that end, placed it in between the sandwiched aluminum pieces and put a spring loaded pin through it, DONE!

When not towing, she pulls the pin, takes a couple of wraps on the cable and sticks it back under the floor mat! It's completely out of site and, is not wearing and tearing on the inside of that cable housing, day in and day out.

Now for the second mod. R/B has a seriously hideous link cable adjustment method for in between the toad and M/H. A whole host of cable clamps, loops etc. Talk about hoaky. So, time for a second mod. All that appears on the front bumper of the toad is a tiny loop of cable with a thimble in it. So, here's what I did for that link cable. I created a link cable with a loop and a thimble on each end but, in the center is a stainless steel turn buckle. When it comes time to hook things up for towing, I have two "clevis" fasteners, one on each end. One links up to the cable end on the front bumper of the toad and, the other links up to the actuator on the R/B unit.

Now, not only seriously cleaner looking but, infinitely more adjustable and, seriously easier to adjust if and when needed. The turn buckle has never, ever come out of adjustment on it's own. I adjusted it every once in a while due to changes in cable length, even though that was incredibly slight.

Again, many of you are quite happy with the way R/B shows you how to hook up their system. That's perfectly fine. I just wanted a cleaner, nicer, more appealing and as much as possible, a more "invisible" system when not in use. It's a preference thing.

I'm about to setup our new to us, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Auto with the same style of link-up and design. To me, it was fun setting it up that way and, I've had many like it so much that they changed theirs to look and operate like mine. Just some information here, if anyone's interested.
Scott






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