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Old 03-09-2014, 11:19 AM   #1
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Ready Brake Cable Broke

Just noticed yesterday that the eyelet on the cable was sticking out a little further than normal from the front of the Jeep. Gave the eyelet a tug and it just pulled out.
Looked under the dash and found the cable broke between the firewall and brake peddle. I'm guessing just from normal wear and tear of using the brakes and the cable bending a little with each application of braking.
I emailed Ready Brake this morning for a replacement.
Anyone else?
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:56 AM   #2
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The cable is to be routed as straight as possible. I wonder if yours is out of alignment? When you press the brake pedal, does the cable go back into the sheath or just flex? The flexing could create metal fatigue. How long has the cable been installed?
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:12 PM   #3
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The cable is as straight as possible. It's been in use for 6 years. I'm not upset it broke and I am sure it because it's easier for it to flex then it is to retract into the sheath. I've got an idea to fix that as well.
Cheers
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:16 PM   #4
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Did it break where the cable goes around the pedal bar and under the top plate? I can see that being a weak spot as the cable gets pretty much crushed there and that's where it takes the most flexing.
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Old 03-09-2014, 01:49 PM   #5
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:19 PM   #6
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Well Gang,
This is one reason why I modified the install system on ours. Mine is not permenantly installed on the brake pedal arm. We have a special "instant attachment" system that we use. This way, there's no excess movement of the interior cable during normal toad driving. That cable just sits there. It's only in use when we're towing. And, I, like many routed it as straight as possible but, it's not always possible to make it straight. Sometimes you just have to bend it around corners etc. But, as most of you know, those bends need to be strictly secured so the interior cable doesn't try to straighten them out as the brakes are being applied.

To the OP, you really didn't have to go to R/B for a replacement. All you needed to do was buzz down to your local hardware store or, Home Depot, Lowes etc. and pick up some of the exact same sized cable. And no, it does not have to be "Aircraft" cable. Regular cable will do. I know 'cause I've used it for several years. What's nice to have is a "Cable ferrule crimp tool" to make up your own ends. That and some "thimbles" for protecting the cable as it makes a 180 degree turn, coming out of and back into a ferrule.

Good luck on the re-install.
Scott
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:46 PM   #7
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Hi just noticed your note about a instant attacHment to tHe brake cable and a brake pedal, can you elaborate on it or post a picture of it, that sounds pretty nice
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:53 PM   #8
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I know there is a lifetime guaranty on the tow bar... Not sure if it covers the cables. If anyone is sure, I would be interested in knowing...
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Old 03-09-2014, 04:55 PM   #9
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I'd like to know you did the mod as well. Thanks
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:23 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyb View Post
Hi just noticed your note about a instant attacHment to tHe brake cable and a brake pedal, can you elaborate on it or post a picture of it, that sounds pretty nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick 2005 Dolphin 5376 View Post
I'd like to know you did the mod as well. Thanks
Gents,
As you know, R/B wants or, instructs you to attach the actuation cable to the brake arm permanently with their components. Well, I'm not a fan of that system due to, in my personal opinion, it permits excess wear and tear on both that cable and the interior of the cable housing. Some don't care about that and simply install the system as instructed.

So, what I did was install a component on the end of that cable that attaches to the brake arm, in a matter of a few seconds. That component is a sliding screen door roller. I simply ran the cable through a cable ferrule, then around the screen door roller and back through the ferrule. Then I crimped the ferrule very close to the roller so the roller would not slip out of the cable loop.

That roller, has a 1/4" hole in it. I installed a 1/4" pin in the brake arm at the same level as the cable is, as it comes out of the housing on the firewall. Now, when it comes time for getting ready to tow, all the wife does is, reach under the floor mat, grab that end of the cable, slip it onto the pin and put a "hitch" pin through the tip of that pin to keep it on there while being towed. DONE!

The other modification I did to the Ready Brake system is, instead of those seriously goof ball cable clamps in the connection cable used for adjustment of cable tension, I installed a Stainless Steel, marine grade turn buckle. Talk about waaaaaaaay cleaner and seriously more easy to make any adjustments to that cable tension.

These modifications made my R/B system much cleaner and, in my opinion, the system will last a lot longer due to the fact that, the actuation cable is not in use, unless the toad is being towed.
Scott





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Old 03-10-2014, 09:14 AM   #11
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That is a really nice mod. I'm in the process of getting the Ready Brake and installing it on my toad. Thought about the turn buckle but not the connection at the brake pedal. Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:01 AM   #12
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I wonder.. I have seen cable ends where there is a crimp on end and the cable basically passes through a bolt head. So that the bolt can slide down the cable but if the cable pulls it pulls the bolt (or block) This is a fantastic design in my opinion.

Yet it's not a common one.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:38 AM   #13
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Great design. I used a turnbuckle and carry spare aircraft cable just in case, but the use of the nylon roller is a super idea, I am going to modify mine. Have only used the RB for 3 years and it has worked without any problem and I have not disconnected from the pedal but it makes sense to do so if one is going to use the toad a lot without using the RB.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:22 PM   #14
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My only concern would be 1, drilling a hole through the brake pedal ( it may make the pedal weaker),
and 2, to hold securely to the brake pedal and
3, is the pin strong enough to withstand the side load from the cable?
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