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Old 01-04-2011, 11:16 PM   #15
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Now to the oil part: The ReadyBrake must move forward to activate the brake lever over time this can become rusty and the movement is less efficient.
I grew up on a farm and anything that squeaked or dragged was promptly oiled it paid off then and will now.
Good luck and happy travels.
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:48 AM   #16
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Dave, I don't have any direct experience with what you're asking, and I do see on Blue Ox's site that they do in fact recommend the 7 inch height difference you mention for the hitch ball mount Acclaim tow bar:

"Blue Ox Acclaim tow bars are designed for the coupler to be
parallel to the ground when towing. The height difference from the center of the attachment tabs to the center of the 2" ball on the towing vehicle should be approximately 7 inches"


My concern would be the Ready Brake cable constantly rubbing and chafing on some portion of the bar setup. I think it would be prone to eventually wearing out. As to not using any supplemental system which should include a break away system, IMHO the most important feature is the break away. Just think of what might possibly happen should the tow bar and safety cables fail, and the toad becomes totally separated from the coach.

I just don't think the Ready Brake is correct supplemental brake system for your situation. Just my opinion FWIW


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Old 01-05-2011, 01:23 PM   #17
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Bob,
Thanks for your input. You may be correct about the potential cable problem. If so, I might be able to do a "work around" with some well placed rollers or slides. I have to wait and see what it looks like when I get the brake.

And Del, I agree with you about the oiling. A little well placed lubricate can help preserve the parts that rub.
Dave
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topflite51 View Post
The reason I posted the link to the different receiver drop hitches is because for proper operation according to the instructions " Your Ready Brake MUST BE level with the tow bar on your towed vehicle."

"If your tow bar is more than 2 inches higher/lower than the Ready Brake mounting tube your Ready Brake will not operate at maximum efficiency."

Maximum efficiency is also obtained when the brake cable is operating parallel to the Ready Brake tube.

I have had the Ready Brake system going on 5 years. Last year I added the receiver drop hitch, it works significantly better and it is easier to adjust.
DITTO... With our 08 Jeep we did not need any additional pieces.
We have this system Love it.... We tow a 08 Jeep Liberty which has the BLUE OX base plate.. We came across from YUMA on I8 to San Diego and it appeared to work well...

Only problems I have run into are if I am not perfectly aligned with the Readybrake... I have difficulty hooking up ... Also sometimes when I do hook it up it will not both arms will not lock up. one will and vice er versa.. So we will turn the wheel on Jeep and push it till it locks or... Move the RV forward and my DW will signal when they are both locked.. It works... But maybe someone can tell me if I'm doing something wrong.

General Question what parts do you lubricate and what do you use?
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:33 PM   #19
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Your towbar arms should lock up when you pull off the lot and your tow lines up directly behind your MH. One way to make sure when towing is to watch tow in rearveiw screen and see if it is tracking straight if an arm is not locked it will be quite evident. Don't ask how I know.

Good luck.
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:39 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadeaux View Post
Your towbar arms should lock up when you pull off the lot and your tow lines up directly behind your MH. One way to make sure when towing is to watch tow in rearveiw screen and see if it is tracking straight if an arm is not locked it will be quite evident. Don't ask how I know.

Good luck.
Del..I won't ask...thanks.. Do you lubricate any parts ...Silicone etc..
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:28 PM   #21
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I don't have more than a 2" difference between my motorhome and toad. The less the angle the less the stress that is put on the tow bar assembly.
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:47 AM   #22
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Del..I won't ask...thanks.. Do you lubricate any parts ...Silicone etc..
Yes I lubricate, I grew up on a farm in Arkansas and learned early to lubricate anything that moves and some things that don't.

I carry WD40 which I use for doors & etc., a small can of high grade grease that I use for the slide gears and tracks, basement trays and generator slide and a grease gun for anything that has a zerk fitting. It's also a good idea to ocassionally extend your jacks then clean and spray silicone or WD 40 on them.

In addition I have my rig serviced at least once a year at Freightliner.
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Yes I lubricate, I grew up on a farm in Arkansas and learned early to lubricate anything that moves and some things that don't.

I carry WD40 which I use for doors & etc., a small can of high grade grease that I use for the slide gears and tracks, basement trays and generator slide and a grease gun for anything that has a zerk fitting. It's also a good idea to ocassionally extend your jacks then clean and spray silicone or WD 40 on them.

In addition I have my rig serviced at least once a year at Freightliner.
Del, I must say that was a pretty "slick" response...

When I had my READYBRAKE installed I did ask the tech, what should I lube... He said nothing required it.. I would think that main system the tow bar could use some silicone... Not sure about the rest of the ReadyBrake system..

Ques on the Zerk fittings... what safety precautions do yo take when you do this.. I am at RV CG for 2 months and I;m considering doing it myself.. My concern is that the Jacks are extended and going under the RV gives me the hebe jebees..

Thanks for responding..
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:28 PM   #24
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My jacks are HWH hydraulics and I have never worried they would collapse but a quick trip to Lowes for a short piece of 6X6 timber would be wise. I buy the disposable hand towels and use one to clean and another that's been sprayed with WD 40 to oil.

My ReadyBrake says nothing about oiling but when you have two pieces of metal moving back and forth it just makes sense.
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:34 PM   #25
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I know that every one, including the manufactuor, recommends that the height diferrence between the base plate connection and the ball be no more than 2". My toad is a Saturn with Blue Ox base plate and Acclaim tow bar which has a 6" to 7" angle. I asked Ready Brake if their unit would work and the reply was "I don't know. Try it and if it doesn't we will refund your money if the unit is returned within 30 days". Also, they said the angle would NOT damage the Ready Brake. The Saturn already has the cable installed for the Ready Brake and I really want to try it. My question is: have any of you had experience with a surge brake with a ball/basepalte differential of greater than 3" - 4"?
Thanks,
Dave
hi! I just got off the phone with BlueOx they say no more than 4"
I just bought a readybrute W/brake should receive about 1/20 and am ordering BlueOx base plates
good motoring
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:39 PM   #26
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Blue Ox doesn't make the ReadyBrute so I assume they are referring to the maximum angle of the Ready Brute Tow Bar to the Blue Ox Base Plate attachment. This is a totally different senario than the Acclim tow bar which has the coupler welded to the tow bar at an angle and is SPECIFIED by Blue Ox to be at the 7" drop. Apples and oranges. Have you talked with the Ready Brute manufactor about the maximum angle?
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:44 AM   #27
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I know BlueOx does not make readybrute NSA does I just bought one.

But maybe Im missing something Ill just stay out of this
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:44 PM   #28
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David,
There's a good point that has not been mentioned before, but, yes absolutely, the Ready Brute system will work better when the brake cable does not go up or down to the toad, thus the toad connections and receiver hitches should be pretty well lined up vertically to each other. Else, the brake cable will work completely differently with a 7" difference.. when going over a hump compared to going thru a dip...over a hump would increase the 7" drop to a greater offset, and tighten the cable and brake when you dont want it to, where going thru a dip would more line up the toad and the MH receiver hitch, thus loosen the cable, and it may not brake even if you want it to

Also, I dont know the proper engineering term but there must be some "moment of strain" to push on the surge unit from a lower (ex: 7" lower) angle, but when the surge pushes right inline and straight forward, it's not pushing at an angle and I have to think that would make the principle of the surge work much better.


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